Ihave a 1996 chevy s-10 with a 4.3 v-6. the engine died out, i had spark from coil to distributor but not distributor to spark plug. i just gave it a tune up and still have the same problem

Verify that the coil to distributor wire is good and properly connected.

One of my favorite methods for checking spark plug wires is to park the vehicle in a very dark place and look under the hood with the engine running (remove the under-hood lamp if it is present). If you see a blue glow ("corona discharge") or sparks coming off of a wire, it is either not properly connected or it has gone bad. That doesn't pick up every fault, but visible discharge is a definite indication of a fault.

If you take coil wire loose from distributor cap and hold close to engine ground, engine cranking, does a spark jump? If it does, make sure rotor turns when you crank it. The pink wire at the coil goes hot with key on, that is primary voltage, use a test light, is it hot? That voltage comes from ecm fuse1--15 amp, check voltage with key on.
If sensor issue, my first thought would be the crank sensor. Just my opinion.

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No Spark - 4.3L S10 Pickup - CarGurus

Have you changed the ignition coil or ignition module? These are the 2 most common problems

I don't think 3 months makes stale gas, maybe year old gas, but not your short time. And if not mistaken, I think you have throttle body injection on an '89 chevy, although chevy always was a little behind the curve on new improvements to cars. hint, hint.
The computer has everything to do with it. it controls ignition timing, it controls spark, it controls the fuel pump and the injectors. Since it won't start with starter fluid or gas, next step is to look into the ignition system. Check for spark on a couple of spark plug wires. If you have a blue, snapping spark, you can assume your ignition system is working well enough to start the engine. Take a spare spark plug or pull one of your plugs from engine, attach the plug wire onto it, and lay the plug on a metal piece of the top of engine-the spark plug hex and threads is the natural ground for the plug, so if you lay the threads on a metal piece, or hold it tight against a steel bolt, you can observe the spark jumping the gap, and no danger of getting shocked. But if you hold it, just in case, wear a glove or wrap a heavy cloth or rag around the wire. Remember, a blue energetic spark has to be seen to verify good ignition. Oh yes, you need a helper to crank the engine over while you watch for spark. If no spark, and you have a distributor, check the coil wires output at the end that connects to center top of distributor.Pull it from distributor and hold the metal end terminal no more than 1/4 inch from a ground source, a bolt or the frame, or an engine bracket. Helper has to crank the engine over, and watch for good blue spark. If no spark there-ignition: coil, crank position sensor (or maybe a pickup coil inside your distributor-same function), ignition control module, computer, and all the associated wiring.
If coil has spark, but none at plug wire ends, inspect closely the distributor cap and rotor. not passing current or shorting out there.
So the basics are, to run, the engine needs gas, air, compression, and a timely spark.

Firing Orders

• Firing Orders

Sending Units And Sensors

Starting System

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• FIRING ORDERS

GM Cavalier/Sunfire 1995-2000 Repair Guide

FIRING ORDERS

Print
See Figures 1 and 2
To avoid confusion, remove and tag the spark plug wires one at a time, for replacement.
If a distributor is not keyed for installation with only one orientation, it could have been removed previously and rewired. The resultant wiring would hold the correct firing order, but could change the relative placement of the plug towers in relation to the engine. For this reason it is imperative that you label all wires before disconnecting any of them. Also, before removal, compare the current wiring with the accompanying illustrations. If the current wiring does not match, make notes to reflect how your engine is wired.

Fig. Fig. 1: 2.2L (VIN 4) Engine Firing Order: 1-3-4-2 Distributorless Ignition System

Greg Bernett 2821 Solutions February 14, 2010
You didn't post your engine size so please pick the applicable diagram:



1996-98 4.3L Engines Firing Order: 1-6-5-4-3-2Distributor Rotation: Clockwise



1996-98 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engines Firing Order: 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2Distributor Rotation: Clockwise




4.3L Engines Firing order: 1-6-5-4-3-2 Distributor rotation: Clockwise



4.8L, 5.3L and 6.0L Engines Firing order: 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3 Distributorless ignition system (one coil on each cylinder)



5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engines Firing order: 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 Distributor rotation: Clockwise

Source: spark plug wiring diagram for 98 tahoe

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• 
  ledsled378 2926 Solutions July 24, 2010
  

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Source: Need diagram for spark plug wiring for 1997 Chevy

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  Dennis Weid. 44272 Solutions September 16, 2008
  

This was all I could come with, hope it helps.

I would check the rotor very carefully. They tend to burn a hole through the plastic under the center tab. It's hard to see sometimes. The spark follows that path instead of to the wire terminals. You may just want to try a new distributor cap and rotor.

Have you checked the HT leads? The main lead from the coil - take off a spark plug lead and plug that into the coil insted and see if you can get it to spark to the engine, if it will spark with this lead then the main lead is bust. also...There is a condenser on the ignition, it prevents the spark from going anywhere but the plugs, if this has failed you will have a weak intermittent spark - heres what it should look like (attached to the distributor or very close to it) - http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=233&partnum=84UX&a=UK233-84UX - click the "i" button to get a bigger pic - make sure yours is properly connected before you get a new one. It's incredibly cheap so may as well replace it + its 21 years old and counting and probably the only original part of the ignition.

Did you try the distributor? It could also be the ignitor chip.