I have a 1988 300zx non turbo 3.0 just replaced the ecu thinking it was the problem but its not. My car will turn over and it sparks, tested the fuel pressure and it makes 42lbs so thats not the problem the injectors just wont spary. The self diagnosis lights on the ecu dont come on. Makes me think its not getting power is there a hidden fuse, relay or fusible link before the ecu? Completely lost

Hello,
Checking fuel injection system, ignition system and components
In the event of diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs), that affect camshaft control or camshaft reset valve, these must be fault-traced first.
The diagnostic trouble code (DTC) indicates which cylinder has misfired: ECM3533

Check that engine oil level is correct.
Check the spark plugs, search for damage in the insulation and other damage.
Check ignition spark.
Check the function of the crankcase ventilation.
Checking fuel and residual pressure. Checking fuel and residual pressures See: Engine, Cooling and Exhaust\Engine\Fuel Pressure\Testing and Inspection\Checking Fuel and Residual Pressures
Check if there is any air leakage. Check for air leaks in the intake system See: Powertrain Management\Fuel Delivery and Air Induction\Testing and Inspection\Air Leaks in the Intake System, Checking
Check that the engine seals tight. Compression test See: Engine, Cooling and Exhaust\Engine\Compression Check\Testing and Inspection\Compression Test
Check flywheel for damage. I have also seen these ECU's fail.
Finally, one thing you can try is called a "hard reset" by disconnecting both battery cables and hold them together for about 3 to 5 minutes, not letting them touch anything else. After this hook them back up and take it for a test drive about 10 miles. The adaptive memory may reset things back to normal. Please advise

ok, ill guess it cranks perfectly.
fact 1, there will be no fueling unless the ECU is happy.
happy means:

1. ECU thinks spark it good. (it has a pin a1 monitor)
2. Spark is good.
3. Throttle not stuck (TPS errors) wide open throttle.

if spark is good, IS IT? on all 4 ?
then try test fuel, if it runs for 3seconds on test fuel then the cam belt is not slipped, and there is spark.
if it does not run on tests fuel there is no spark or timed wrong, or the cam belt slipped. (very common on zero serviced cars)
if timing is still correct and runs on test fuel then we attack the ECU inputs. and outputs (the single injector)
this all sounds complex and is not
lets play that out.

1. ah dizzy rotor turns , cam belt not snapped.
2. ah, the spark is good but is way off time the belt slipped....
3. The engine runs on test fuel, wow sounds snappy too.
4. ok , i use a NOID light on INJECTOR pins 1and 2.
5. the lamp is good, the fuel pressure , hark , is 0psi or 10. wrong
6. the NOID fails, i then check TPS input voltage to the EDC
7. its good, i find the tacho pin dead. OMG.

http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/89/89-90schem1.jpg

this year car the Distributor makes all spark the ECU does NOT.
but the ECU watches it like a hawk.
if pin A1 goes dead, ECU cuts fuel, ending crash and burn like seen on TV.

ask questions.

I think there is an ignition module which can be removed and tested. These fail quite often. Parts store can often test these.

one of the best posts ever, of 4000. even EX model and dizzy maker.
wow. !
my guess, is it passes a time 4 spark tests.
the 1st rule of all EFI systems is.
1: if the ECU even THINKS (sic) there is no spark it MUST cut fuel.
the ECU has 3 ways to find bad spark (not all ways)
A: spark read back signal dead. (dtc 8? or 15)
B: CMP dead,
C: CKP dead.
the ECU will in fact flash the codes out to tell you which of the 3 are dead, if dead. ever do that yet? (code 4,8,9, 15)? others?
this is called by me, "crash and burn logic", (EFI Rules)

So never ever, troubleshoot fuel loss. with out doing all the above first.
1988 to 2013 cars, all work the same.(EFI)
some cars only activate the fuel pump cranking and running.
that be rule 2:

the ECUis covered in the FSM>
here is a free FSM.

recap,
test for spark using a test spark plug x4 (and at coil if easy)
do the scan, of the ECU, the winky blinky test, using the JUMPER.
first.

Check your wastegate solenoid

its an old car, why not get the real FSM to keep it going. DIY
it only takes 3 things to run,. one is bad, and find that 1 failure
and take it to the logical conclusions (vast)
1:Good engine, 150psi compression all cylinders. W.0.T.
2: good spark ( and timed right too.) (timing light and test spark plug)
3: good fueling (not too much or too little) (lots of tests but are the spark tips wet? dripping in fuel or dry as a bone. )

if the engine was good and spark , then test fuel test would pass.
does it?
fuel at rail means zero. only the proper pressure works in EFI.
my guess, is you did the dribble? tes?t a the the rail?
that dribble test only finds 100% DOA pumps. nothing MORE.

if the sparks are dry, and you did a proper tuneup. did you, and did you put the new spark plug wires back 1 by 1, no?
then test fuel works and runs for as long as you squirt it.
if test fuel runs say for 3 seconds for each time then you lost fuel..
most cars cut fuel injection if spark is lost. or it even thinks it is lost. ECU monitors spark and cuts fuel
this is classic, and is easy to see with any NOID lamp test
you see all NOID checks go dead on all cylinders , that means
the ECU is in cut fuel mode.
see scotty do it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg&NR=1&feature=fvwp

this is not unique to chrysler, at all, its EFI.
all EFI works alike , the shapes change to fool the non tech.

i dont know about you, but in my shop
i check fuel pressure and you found it at zero
then put in a new pump and didnt check pressure.
why would you do that? after all it was zero.
and you do that and its still zero. then find a bad wire /connector
in the fuel pump power feed or the fuel pump relay.
or ? a inertial cut out sw, or rollover switch. (i said generic)
now rule 2: if spark is bad, the ECU cuts fuel,
BY DESIGN. that dont mean spark really is bad, but does mean
the ECU can not SEE spark, or that the Tachmeter line is dead.
All ECU monitor spark 1 way or the other, and if that fails.
there WILL BE NO INJECTION period.
use your scan too to see DTCs while cranking and dead RPM cranking for 5 seconds, release key and look for crank or cam
sensors errors, key key on for 1min to see them pop up.

your are stumped because you are not troubleshooting, only guessing. and will make you broke fast.
here at the simple tests, in the proper order.
1: compression on all cylinders. if all are horrid.
the cam timing is way off. no motor will run like this.
2: spark check for spark. ! at all spark plugs, not just one.
3: make sure the ECU is happy about spark, RPM moves cranking , etc.
if spark tips are dry at this moment test fuel can be used.
does it start now then stall as the the test fuel is consumed.?
4: check for injection.
do the injectors click , do all of then click , cranking>?
if all fail, i can assure you the ECU is CUTTING FUEL!!!
if one dont click , then run a NOID lamp test in this injector
and make sure the coil reads near 10 ohms not infinity.
5b: you can do an injector balance test.
cranking, see that the pressure drops, as you crank.
Ill not cover this , as its a SOP proc, in all EFI books published.
but take to bank, can witness the drop in pressure and know the injector does in fact inject.
that way or by looking at fuel soaked spark tips.

the injectors can fail in many a way, they are fuel cooled.
A:shorted coil, open coil
B: ecu driver dead.
C: injector clogged or leaking (leaking causes flooding)
the injector has inside 10 micron screens. tiny,
d: bad fuel. cant burn or clog s screens.

you are now totally confused (above) or are un-stumped.

if you dont understand EFI at all , then lets go back to 1920.
this works too, on all otto cycle engines
1: compression, good, time number of cyclinders.
at spec. all equal, most 150psi to 200 is typical today.
2: got spark times all cycliners.(oh, yes, timing right)
3: over fueling or under.?

that is it, its and air pump , if it can pump air, it's hopeless.

the 3 steps work , every time. the tests are easy and are documented for 90 years, now.

the ecu is located behind the passenger kick panel , there is a little window at the top of it which has 2 lights in it red and green, turn the key to the on position, do not start engine, push gas pedal all the way down then release, the lights will start blinking, for example if you get 3 green blinks and 2 red blinks that means code 32, 5 green and 1 red code 51, there is a list on the front of the ecu that tells you what each code means

#1 NEED TO VERIFY SPARK AT SPARK PLUGS # 2 CK FUEL PRESSURE AT SCHRADER VALVE ON FUEL RAIL ,,PRESSURE DEPENDS ON TYPE ENGINE ....IF NO SPARK AT SPARK PLUGS CHECK SPARK FROM COIL WIRE , IF NO SPARK AT COIL ,CHECK VOLTAGE TO IGNITION COIL SHOULD BE 12 VOLTS, IF NO VOLTAGE AT COIL ( KEY ON ) CHECK FUSES THEN IGHITION SWITCH. IF NO FUEL PRESSURE AND FUEL PUMP RUNS REPLACE PUMP .. CK VOLTAGE TO FUEL PUMP WHILE CRANKING . CK USING PUMP GROUND WIRE AT THE PUMP CONNECTOR THIS WILL PROVE GROUND ALSO. USE TEST LIGHT TO VERIFY

dude, i think you have two spark plug cables cross over. go to your local autozone and find a "firing order" if it was a blown head gasket it would show on the compression test but i'm pretty sure its a spark plug cable cross over.