Question about Mazda B2600
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The sound is not coming from the glove compartment, it is coming from the panel behind the drivers seat, that's where the relays and computer are located.
The relays click and apply power to a transfer case motor.
The motor attempts to turn a shaft that engages the front drive shaft.
When the computer thinks the shaft has NOT turned it tries again.
It will try three times then quit, figuring the shaft has not turned.
Get someone to crawl under the vehicle and engage the 4WD (just turn on the ignition- do not start the engine) See if they can hear the motor attempt to turn the shaft, it will make a clicking sound.
If not the connections or the motor may be bad.
I have found the most probable cause is the relays on the control board.
If you are technically adept --
you can remove the small side panel from behind the drivers seat and remove the control board. (remove the power plugs first)
Clean the relay contacts and bend them a little to give them more 'wipe' to keep them clean longer.
Put it back in and turn on the ignition.
Then push the RESET button on the side of the board.
Try the in / out 4WD a couple of times. If it doesn't work turn off the ignition, turn it back on and push the reset button again.
Posted on Oct 27, 2008
I have recently had this problem with a customer. It seems the 4x4 low will only engage in neutral with the brake applied. And also check fuse. Then select drive and you will feel it lock in. Don't "goose" the fuel when attempting this.
Posted on Jan 14, 2009
2004 Nissan Titan when using the kick down and the accelerator pedal is about 75% depressed the RMP go into the red zone then drop to about 25K and comes close to stalling. Why?
Posted on Mar 04, 2009
A VERY COMMON FAULT!
Kia us a dim design that works on air, so the light on the dash may light up green...mine does...but no 4x4.
Test one, look inside the engine bay,(2Litre petrol) on your left hand side, to the left of the actual engine is the solenoid device that "switches on" the vacuum to the front hubs. This is easier that you would think. If you look at the left side of the engine, there are two pipes coming out (left side) one is thick (break system. DONT touch) one is thinner and soft rubber. Follow this tube, it goes into a small black cannister which is a resvoir and one way valve...the tube then outputs into another device (solenoid) which has 2 wires on. The tube then splits under this in two. The test is simple, with the engine running, and 4 wheel drive engaged pull the tube apart after the solenoid. Put your finger there you should feel a nice strong ****. If it does **** put it back on. If it does not **** it needs to be removed and cleaned. This is simple to unbolt and all you do is pull the rubber bung of the bottom, and the two tubes and spray break cleaner inside. reassamble until you get to feel the vaccum.
test 2 Now look behind each wheel, you will see a thick hose wrapped in a spring, this is the break system, do not touch this. There is a thinner flexible hose attached behind the wheel, you will notice that these have no securing system just push fit. Remove each of the in turn and test for vacuum.
Leaks here are common and easy to fix.
The bad news if you have vacuum, and still no 4 wheel drive one or both front wheel hubs has a leak, and the bad news is, it needs a garage to fix it, and to replace the seal a £5 part you have to ruin a £100 part.
Test the vaccum, pray. Otherwise ask, doe you really need to spend £250 to sort this?
Posted on Mar 17, 2009
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