Question about GMC Sierra 1500

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My truck brakes we're vibrating and the pedal going to the floor. The mechanica told me the rotors we're bad in front, but the ABS pump was causing the vibration problem. He told me the ABS pump was expensive to replace so he suggested I just unplug it. Brakes are fine now, but I have the ABS light on. I am looking at trading the truck in the near future and I know this will hurt me on the trade in value. How difficult is it to replace the ABS pump and should I put used in?

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Chances are that you will have a faulty wheel speed sensor, or wiring to the sensor, not a faulty control unit. Connect the unit again and have the fault codes read with a suitable scan toread the fault code. This will confirm what is actually required to rectify the problem.

Posted on May 29, 2011

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1 Answer

Why is the left front tire thumping and the brake pedal vibrating when I stop


ABS thinks you are skidding, and is applying the brakes on and off. Likely one of the ABS sensors is bad.

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Callipers on passenger side front and rear had locked down while the car sat on millitary base for nine months. Purchased new callipers (all four) pads rotors etc to get my sons car back on the road. Now...


Sounds like the master cylinder has bailed on you as well. Pedal going to the floor is the common sign that it's bad. To prevent any more aggrevation's, match the part, port for port, size, shape, and mount flange before putting a drop of fluid in the new one. It's a critical part and should obtained from Hyundai. Have it pressure bled, or have the dealer do it. The ABS sometimes requires special equipment to bleed the system.

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Two possible causes to the pulsing. Lets start with the least expensive first. Warped Rotors. Brake rotors/discs get extremely heated during braking and if you drive in the rain or drive through some standing water at the right time, the Heat and Cool cycle of the braking and then quenching by the water can cause the metal to warp. Even a slight warp will cause some vibration in the front end and a pulsing in the pedal. If the rotors havent been turned during the brake job or replaced I would look here first. The only way to determine is if the wheel is taken off and rotor visibly inspected. Second and most costly is the ABS Control module. Best way to explain is in a small box under your car in the middle by the drivers car door are 6 little plungers... to visualize think suction cups arranged like a 6 pack of coke. When you press your brake peddle in an ABS car these plunger open and close valves to in effect pump your brakes very very rapidly. ABS systems took the old 1970's pump the brakes and automated it. That helped prevent skids when people slammed on brakes during wet weather or accidents. They are controlled by a computer unit called a Control Module (Kelsey ABS Control for GM vehicles) when this starts to go bad you get the pulse in your pedal as the ABS system actuates improperly. Good news is even if the ABS controller goes out you WILL still have brakes, just not ABS brakes. Now lets get to cost. A rotor for your car depending on quality and type runs from 25 to 85 dollars (higher price is for more of a racing/speed type set up with frequent braking not everyday driving.. they are slotted and drilled to dissipate heat faster) Labor at a local mechanic to replace is going to be about $80. The ABS Controller module for your car runs from $745 up to $1100 dollars and the replacement cost is going to be about $200 for labor.

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Im going to assume that a mechanic has already checked for the most simple causes like making sure the brakes have been bled. If the abs module is faulty it will default to just a no abs state, but that wont cause the pedal to go all the way to the floor. I agree that replacing the caliper is probably gonna fix the problem, but I might try to bleed the brakes first and see if that solves it first...

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1 Answer

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Since the rotor isn't warped. Do you have grooves in the rotor? Are the pads evenly worn? You a bad front 4X4 C/V shaft will also cause this reaction.
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