Question about Chevrolet Corvette

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Corvette makes a distinctive 'clunk' when engaged in gear and starting to move forward or back. Chattering in left rear hub when making left hand turn. Rear suspension and all brake suspension check OK. No grinding noise when car is jacked up and left rear tire is rotated.

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The two symptoms you posted may or may not be related. I'd check the driveshaft and axle joints for any looseness or binding. (do this with the rear wheels hanging free in neutral, front wheels blocked)
The chattering may be an axle joint or the posi unit in the differential. Most times replacing the diff lube, (using posi additive) then making tight left and right circles will free the clutch packs.
Difficult to diagnose noises online. If you have any problems finding the source, have an experienced tech look at it,,,You still have the option of actually doing the work itself.

Posted on May 28, 2011

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2001 Tahoe 4wd isn't engaging in 1,2,or 3rd or drive. It only goes forward when the gear shift is on reverse and when it starts to move it makes a loud clunk noise and grinding.


Not sounding to good. Sounds like you wiped out the planetary gears. Depending on the damage, your looking at $2000 rebuild.

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Wow. A snapped side shaft sounds serious. If you lift the front end of the truck, (or the rear end for that matter) the wheels will appear to be counter rotating, it is the way a differential works. If you turn the left wheel forward, the right wheel will turn backwards, and vice versa.
When you change to 4wd the front end does make a rather loud clunking sound as the gears engage. You should therefore change while the truck is stationary, then slowly move forward or back until the 4wd engages, then take off.
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The shift linkage is out of adjustment.

The cable bolt may be loose up at the column, the column itself may be loose enough to allow it to shift position as well.

Make sure column is securely mounted, If not- tighten the 4 bolts that hold it to the dash support so it is. if it is, crawl under driver's side and on the transmission is a bracket where the cable assembly comes into it, and from there a rod that attaches on the lever on the side of the transmission. Make sure the bracket is not damaged or cracked first- if it is, replace it. There is a captive clip to release on the wide part of the piece that the bracket holds, it does not come out fully, but it will release the cable housing so you can slide it to adjust it. With the column shift in Park position, note where the rod is at the transmission. Also make note if the bracket is in line with transmission. If bracket is in line, pull the lever rearward one notch/detent that you will feel engage the lever- this moves the transmission lever to neutral, then with firm pressure push lever forward so you feel 2 distinct notches/detents forward, the lever is now in park. Push locking clip back into position once you confirm the cable outer housing is squarely seated into bracket opening and is soundly clipped into the square opening of the bracket.

If the lever will not move to that second detent or you did not feel it, you will need to check by putting the column shift to first gear position, release the connection to the lever on the transmission just to verify location of lever, and verify the lever is indeed in first gear- the lever on the transmission will move no further- then count detents forward from the rear stop. you should end up in park, and you may hear the parking pawl engage the output shaft of transmission. move lever back to the rear to the stop, reattach the connection to the cable, put column in park, release the clip again and verify the lever is as far forward as it is going to move. Push clip into lock position.

Start Explorer, with foot on brake pedal, release the emergency/parking brake and see if the vehicle moves, or if it is truly in park. It should be in park.

If you encounter some dificulty with getting the column shift lever itself moved over to park- apply brake pedal to release the park interlock mechanism.

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It's hard to tell, from your description, as to the extent of the clunking.
If it seems to only and constantly occur whenever in forward motion, bumps or not, then I would first check your rear differential, (if 4x4 then your front differential as well).
Check fluid level(s) and if okay, remove cover and check for worn gears and any metal shavings on the magnet on bottom of housing.

Worn gears can toss your vehicle around, any make stomach turning clunks and other awful noises. I've recently replaced a front differential on a 1994 Dakota. It would make same clunks as you describe and a few times would make my back end seem to 'hop' while driving highway speeds. I would check this quickly.

If it only seems to happen over bumps, then your guess on engine mounts or bushings is probably the best guess.

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