Question about 2007 Toyota Yaris

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While strapping the battery into the car i caused a very instantaneous short circuit across the battery. when the job was completed the car would not start and there is a clicking noise from the EFI relay. Can anyone help?

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First, check the charge on the battery. I bet, with any luck, it just ran it dead from the high current. On the other hand, you could have sent a shock to the computer: Best to try charging it, and if it doesn't run, see if you can get someone who has an OBDII sensor (Mechanic, friend, etc) to see if you've got error codes. Best wishes the battery discharged, though!

Posted on May 28, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I have a Mazda 121 that wont start, I have replaced all the fuses under the bonnet, But when the battery was reconnected the 80 fuse blew straight away... Would the problem be the relay


Unlikely a relay which would have to be very seriously kaput to cause a fuse to blow and even if it was that bad it is only a slim possibility.a fuse would blow.

Clearly there is a short circuit somewhere on one of the circuits protected by that fuse. Check in the vehicle handbook what circuits are supplied by that fuse and begin disconnecting until the fuse goes away.
To save spending money on lots of fuses for testing a headlamp bulb can be connected across the fuse contacts to monitor progress. A short circuit will cause the bulb to be full brightness and when it dims or goes out you have found the faulty circuit.

Alternatively a couple of wires can be fixed to a spare MCB from a consumer unit if you have such a thing...

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Hi, I need to replace a battery in a Ford KA. There is a retaining strap across the battery. Is there any easy way to release this or do I have to undo the nut on the threaded stud that retains the...


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If there is no blown fuse problem, this is a good candidate for the issue: no ground means no circuit means no wiper movement.

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Hi

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I don't know if you have the job done since your posting. It's a very easy job. I did replace mine few days ago. Let's say 30 minutes job with right tools and an inside work area. 1- disconnect battery terminals 2-remove the air filter assembly giving more room to work. 3- disconnect the wire connection to the back of the alternator 4- using a wrench key (14 or 15 milimiter dont remember) release the tension on the strap swinging the bender wheel (located at your left) to the right. Maintaining the binding wheel at this position get the strap out of the alternator pulley. Try to keep the strap in place on all the other pulleys and rollers to save you reinstall work. 5- Unscrew and remove the 3 bolts retaining the alternator (14 or 15 milimeters ?) remove and replace the alternator. Maybe you will have to use a prybar to get it out of its seat. 6- Do the reverse step by step to complete the job. Just make sure that the strap is sitting properly over the pulleys and rollers. Once complete, start the engine and check if everything is in line in regard to the strap. If the alternator was really the root cause of your problem now the meter in your dash should indicate between 13.5 and 14 volts with all the demand turned on ( front beam, defrost, heater fan, wiper). Within these bondaries you're in business. Good luck Sorry for my poor english language. Dan

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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