Question about 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I take it you mean the 2 large round bush rubbers, at front of the sub-frame with the large bolt through the center ?
Usually if they are shot, you can see the splitting in them, if they look OK, I do not think this is your problem
What about the 2 Top front cross member mountings, they have a habit of splitting away from the bonding, and this can give strange jerking problems.
Jack up the car on the cross member, and support the body on the 2 front jacking points, better to remove the wheels, and lower the jack a little, and you should be able to see any problem with them straight away, and see even better if you lever with a large screwdriver.
I hope this is of help.
Posted on Jan 18, 2009
With the information given this is not a sure solution. Questions that need to be asked is when does this happen, turning at slow speedm high speed, when hitting a pot hole etc? Since you have replaced a lot of things already, assuming you have NEW good quality parts so you did not replace bad parts with new bad parts i would definitelu check the pitman arm. This runs from the stering gear to the tierod. It can give you some good clunks while steering, especially at low speed when there is a lot of resistance. Check it by having someone turning the steering wheel when watchin/feeling it.
Posted on Sep 18, 2009
SOURCE: front end bushing and ball joint
It's not required to change the upper and the lower at the same time. However it will save you time if you do them both as if one is going out the other will soon.
The actual job is not that difficult but you may need a pickle fork or a ball joint removal tool to disconnect the ball joints from the steering knuckle. You will also need a ball joint press to remove/install the ball joints. You may also need a strut spring compressor. You can rent these at an auto parts store.
Basically you have to do the following -loosen lug nuts -jack the vehicle up and place on jack stands -remove wheel -remove upper ball joint cotter pin and nut -remove lower ball joint cotter pin and nut -with pickle fork/ball joint removal tool remove both upper and lower ball joints from steering knuckle -disconnect tie rod end from knuckle (optional depending on clearance) -disconnect strut (be sure to install strut spring compressors) -with ball joint press you will need to press both ball joints out (you also use the press to install ball joints)
Installation is reverse of removal.
For exact instructions you can buy the manual for about $20 or go to autozone.com, register, and view the manual on their site for free.
Posted on Jan 26, 2010
Well there are stabilizer bar bushings, control arm bushings and strut mount bushings. The stabilizer bushings are usally bolted around the the stabilizer bar and attach to the frame. The control arm bushings are usally pressed into the control arms. The strut mount bushings are on top of the struts. Normally they are replaced as needed. The strut mount bushings are good to do when replacing the struts.
Posted on Mar 12, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
May 06, 2017 | Ford Cars & Trucks
Jul 21, 2014 | 2004 Toyota Solara
Feb 21, 2011 | 2003 Volkswagen Passat
Jul 08, 2010 | 2003 Nissan Murano
Mar 12, 2010 | 2005 Subaru Outback
Feb 22, 2010 | 2003 Saturn ION
Dec 26, 2009 | 1994 Mazda 323
Jul 23, 2009 | 1995 Chevrolet Blazer
Mar 12, 2009 | 2003 Oldsmobile Alero
Sep 05, 2008 | 2002 Volvo S60
121 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!