Question about 2003 Dodge Durango

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Engine miss no.6 cylinder on 4.7 liter good compression 125 psi an pop through intake on acceleration

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Carbon build up inside motor and causing the valve to stick open at higher rpm's
The last one I fixed, I used internal engine cleaner, Can be bought at your local jobber store.
The proper way to use this stuff is to start engine and remove a vacuum line and set in the bottle, Let it **** up the cleaner till its all gone or till engine quits. If it sucks up the whole bottle without stopping, Then turn the motor off as soon as bottle is empty..Do not restart engine for at lease 20 to 25 min after. When you restart engine, go out for a drive where there is NO TRAFFIC, cause as the motor warms up it will smoke, if someone is watching, They will think your car is on fire. This is the cleaner working. Keep driving till the smoke is gone. Change the oil and filter after your done your drive..
This should fix your problem..If the problem recurs. DO NOT USE THE CLEANER AGIAN. It will cause more damage..Problems recurs, then the heads will need to be taken off and cleaned up...

Posted on Nov 28, 2008

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Popping on acceleration


It could be a problem in the valve train. For a car that old, before putting new parts in, you could buy a compression tester for about $30, and do your own compression test. It should tell you if the engine is good enough internally to warrant proceeding. If compression is low on any cylinders, that problem must be addressed first. If a valve is not sealing and causing the popping, that cylinder will show low compression.
For the test, the engine should be at normal operating temperature. Then pull all the plugs out, connect tester to #1 spark plug hole. Have a helper hold the throttle wide open while cranking the engine over about 5 seconds. Watch the gauge-the first revolution or two will cause the gauge to jump high at first, and successive revolutions during the 5 second span will cause the needle on gauge to climb a little each time. Record or note the compression on #1, then do each cylinder. Try to do the same amount of cranking on each cylinder, and keep the throttle wide open. What you want are compression readings on each cylinder that is well above 100 psi, and all should be close. The lowest reading should be within 75-85% of the highest reading cylinder. Example: say your highest reading is 135 psi. 85% of 135 is 115-so your lowest reading should be at least 115 psi. Some general guidelines: any cylinder with compression below 100 psi is definitely a problem-that cylinder will not have hardly any power output, even if it is firing. Worn piston rings or poor valve sealing is causing compression loss. A newer engine should have compression readings above 150 psi. As the engine wears, compression will drop. In general, for high mileage engines, you would want to see compression in the range of 125-150 psi, the higher the better, but remember, it should be balanced-the lowest should be at least 75% of the highest reading cylinder.
Post back if you have questions-good luck.

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1 Answer

Engen problem and missing


Sir, your question is not very clear, but I will still try to post a solution here. Engine missing could be due to any problem in fuel system, ignition system, engine or ECM as well.

LOW ENGINE IDLE SPEED (Poor idling):
-Throttle body (do the cleaning and idle speed learning)
-A /C signal circuit
-Fuel pump control circuit
-Fuel pump
-Intake system
-P C V valve (clogged or open) and hose

ROUGH IDLING:
-Cylinder Compression
-Ignition system (Igniters, spark plugs, wiring harness)
-Spark plug fouled, gap too wide or too short. (1.00-1.1 mm)
-Fuel injector circuit
-E C M power source circuit
-Fuel pump control circuit
-Fuel pump (required pressure 44 psi - 49 psi)
-Throttle body (cleaning)
-Intake system
-P C V valve and hose
-Air fuel ratio sensor
-Heated oxygen s ens or
-Mass air flow meter
-Idle hunting
-Throttle body
-Intake system
-P C V valve and hose
-Air fuel ratio sensor
-Mass air flow meter

HESITATION/ POOR ACCELERATION:
-Fuel pump control circuit
-Fuel pump
-Spark plug
-Ignition system
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-E C M power source circuit
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1 Answer

What is the Compression supposed to be for a 1987 Toyota Pick up 22R with carb, 4 cyl.???


A new engine would be about 180 psi for each cylinder. As the miles add up and wear occurs, compression will get lower. The important thing is that compression is even and balanced-lowest compression reading should be within 75% of the highest cylinder's compression. Some Toyota engines had a minimum allowable compression of about 135 psi, but if compression is balanced, you could have average compression as low as 125 psi and engine would still run good, some loss of power but still acceptable, and oil consumption would not be that bad.
If cylinder compression is below 120 psi as an average, you should be looking into a rebuild event-rings and valves need attention. If any cylinder is below 100 psi, it may not even fire, certainly will produce no power, and could be a head gasket failure, very worn rings, or valve problems.
Remember the important thing is to find compression readings that are very close to each other. I have an '87 Sentra with 75,000 miles(true!)-lowest comp. is 160, highest is 165 psi-runs great, good power. Also a '79 Datsun pickup (with god only knows how many miles-about 200,000 maybe). Compression is about 125-135 psi, fairly well balanced-noticeable loss of power, very little oil burning, still runs fair to good-dependable, at least.
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