Question about 2002 Ford Explorer

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Trying to find what the name of the part is for an 02 ford explorer 4.0L 6 cylinder. it looks like a tie rod but its in the back. the best i could come up with is a rear trailing arm. any ideas

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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chuck943
  • 783 Answers

SOURCE: How do I remove the rear wiper arm on my 1996 Ford Explorer?

Pull the wiper arm away from the glass until it is straight out. Then take a small flat blade screw driver and release the retaining clip at the base of the pivot arm. The carefully pry the pivot arm from the shaft.

Posted on Apr 15, 2009

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co7196
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SOURCE: 1995 Ford Crown Victoria - shakes/vibrates @ highway speeds.

Alignment has alot to do with the tires not shimmying.. Like zero toe setting. Loose componants like tie rod ends and the idler ar worn. You can ck for excess front end play by holding the front and back of the wheel and pushing and pulling on it, like rocking it. OR have someone rock the steering while you watch where the play is from underneath. By rocking I mean turn the steering wheel back and forth. Look at all th joints and pivot points for excess play, which is, movement not immediate to the rest of the steering system. Tire balance is very important. Wheel hop is a sign of a bad tire and it overtaxes the shock absorber. Shocks don't cause shimmy because they are a vertical movement controlA shimmy is lateral or side to side.Wheel balance weights must be spit. If a 2 oz. weight is needed to balance the tire, Oe once should be on the inside of the wheel and one ounce on the outside directly across from each outher.. Loose wheel brgs will cause shimmy, but they would not last long. Caster setting on the wheel alignment will also cause shimmy. Like on a shopping car. too much caster causes the wheel to start fluttering and is very hard on other componants. This may be why you have worn tie rod ends and a bad pitman arm. Worn control arm bushings and ball joints directly affect titre wear and can only be feltwhen the front end hits a dip and detected by side wear on the tire edges. Summary: replace the tie rod end and have the car aligned. Good Luck, -Ned_ sorry about the book

Posted on Sep 24, 2009

Zeevert
  • 373 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 ford escape tie rod squeaks

My outer tie rod did the same thing when just out of warranty. I could tell it was "bad" by putting my hand on the tie rod while someone else turned the steering a little and I could easily feel the vibration.
Check the other side to feel the difference. Tie rods don't cost that much, if you can replace it yourself, and take a chance on foregoing the wheel alignment. Maybe a $150? job at the shop.
In my case, a tie rod was not readily available. I verified that it was a good joint; no shake or rattle. Then I squirted a little WD40 inside the boot, and put it back together. 70,000 miles later, the new tie rod is still on my shelf waiting for the squeak to return.

Posted on Mar 17, 2010

kennyz195
  • 61 Answers

SOURCE: replace rear wiper arm

there is a cover at the base lift it up and then you have a nut. 10mm remove this and pull off the arm. sometime they get stuck and you will have to pry it up.

Posted on Apr 02, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: fuse box diagram for a 95 ford explorer

my ford explore is not reading mileage

Posted on Feb 22, 2011

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here is word for word what the manual says:

REMOVAL:
1. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts on the side to be dismanteld. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jack stands. CAUTION: If the vehicle is equipped with Automatic Ride Control (ARC), make sure the air suspention switch is turned to the OFF position before the vehicle is riased to prevent damage to the system components.

2. Remove the front wheel.

3. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the nut on the tie-rod end stud. Discard the cotter pin.

4. Disconnect the tie-rod end fron the steering spindel with a Pitman arm puller.

5. Loosen the tie-rod end jam nut and back it off several turns.

6. Apply a paint mark to the theads adjacent to the adjusting sleeve or tie-rod end. Unscrew the tie-rod end from the adjusting sleeve or connecting rod.

INSTALLATION:
7. Install the tie-rod end into the adjusting sleeve or connecting rod. Thread the tie-rob end in until the marks made on step 6 align.

8. Install the tie-rod end to the spindle. Make sure the front wheels and steering wheel are in the stright ahead position. Make sure the tie-rod stud is seated in the taper to prevent it from turing while tightening the nut.

9. Install the new nut on the stud and tighent it to the proper torque (45-60 ft-lbs). Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends over completely.

10. Tighten the tie-rod adjusting sleever clap bolts or jam nut to 50-68 ft-lbs. Make sure the tie-rod is posistioned correctly in the same posistion it was in before it was removed.

11. Install the wheel and lug nuts. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts.

12. get the front end aligned.

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