Question about Peugeot 604

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Cannot get the brake cylinder back in the calipers on the front right brake. Is it right screw or left?

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  • Peugeot Master
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Try by turning the cup in its bore , after a few times it will start to depress. do not ruin rubber seal on caliper. turn the piston clockwise to go back in. most auto parts stores sell a tool to turn piston back in,or compress it in its bore so new pads will fit on it. the cost for the tool is very little. and saves a lot of time. if i remember right, here in ny i think i paid less then $10.00,

Posted on May 25, 2011

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2 Answers

I replaced both front calipers and rotors on my 08 Escape. I then bled the brakes, but the pedal goes to the floor. What is going on ?


It has ABS so you have to bleed the brakes from the brake caliper up to the reservoir using a positive pressure brake bleeder. The unit holds the fluid and pushes clean fluid and the air up to the reservoir under pressure.

Sep 23, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Have a 99 Toyota camry n brake light is on after changing right front brake caliper


Master cylinder fluid piston has entered into a brake safe mode.
when the high pressure brake system is opened in any way, the brake master cylinder piston reaches to the far end of the master cylinder which trips the brake system warning light.

This brake light condition is due to sudden loss of brake fluid pressure on the right front brake caliper assembly during the replacement.

Left rear brake caliper bleed valve will ned to be "opened" until master cylinder piston travels into the opposite direction which "resets" the brake system warning light.

Dot 4 brake fluid recommened for most, but not all vehicles.
Reference vehicle to owners manual for replacement fluid is replaced under master cylinder brake system cap.

Aug 18, 2013 | 1993 Buick Park Avenue

1 Answer

How to bleed brakes on a 96 civc


Hello Vicno.

Bleeding brakes is easiest done with a helper to push the brake pedal.

If the master cylinder was empty, top it up. Have the helper push gently down the pedal while you crack the line fitting on the master cylinder enough that it allows air to come out. Generally it is a 1/2 to a 3/4 turn off the seat. Close the fitting when the pedal is down and then release the pedal. Continue this until no air is evident. Then do the other line fitting on the master. This operation will get the air out of the master and is easier than pushing air all the way through the system.

Make sure you keep the fluid topped up! If it goes dry you will need to start over.
And use approved brake fluid only! Anything else will ruin the complete system.

Next proceed to bleed the remainder of the system as described below.

If the master cylinder maintained fluid then you will need to go to the bleed screws on the wheel cylinders or calipers. Front brakes will have calipers, rear could be wheel cylinders or calipers, depending on how it was equipped.
Each one will have a screw with a hole in the center. this is the bleed screw. They are usually close to where the main line is attached.

Start at the right rear bleed screw and bleed the same as the master-------crack....push...close...release. Then go to left front bleeder and do the same. Then to left rear, right front.

Have the helper push the pedal hard after you are done bleeding to verify the fittings that were loosened do not leak.

If you would like further advise on this subject, please ask me here in a comment.
Thank you for using FixYa.
KL

Feb 21, 2011 | Honda Civic Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I replaced the whole back break line,as i try to bleed them i get fluid out of the front passenger side and the back driver side,but nothing out of the other two.whats the problem?


Hi, your proportioning valve is stuck. Take the caps off and recenter the one stuck valve. Then rebleed the system using the procedure below. Thanks for using fixya.

jturcotte_1047.gif
For those of us who are not fortunate enough to have access to a power bleeding tool, the manual brake bleeding procedure will quite adequately remove air from the hydraulic system. The major difference between the pressure and manual bleeding procedures is that the manual method takes more time and will require help from an assistant. One person must depress the brake pedal, while another opens and closes the bleeder screws.
  1. Deplete the vacuum reserve by applying the brakes several times with the ignition OFF .
  2. Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover and fill the reservoirs with clean fluid.
  3. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected to contain air. If the master cylinder was removed and bench bled before installation it must still be bled, but it should take less time and effort. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
    2. Loosen the front brake line(s) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.




WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle's finish as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.

  1. Tighten the line connection(s).
  2. Have an assistant depress and hold the brake pedal.
  3. Loosen the line connection(s) again, allowing air to escape from the master cylinder.
  4. Tighten the line(s), then have the assistant release the brake pedal and wait for 15 seconds.
  5. Repeat steps D through F until the line(s) are free of air.
  6. When finished bleeding the air from the master cylinder, tighten the line connections to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
  7. Repeat steps B through H, only with the master cylinder rear pipe fitting(s).

  1. Refill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid.



WARNING Never reuse brake fluid that has been bled from the system.

  1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
    1. Right rear
    2. Left rear
    3. Right front
    4. Left front

  2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
    1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end. Be sure the hose is seated snugly on the screw or you may be squirted with brake fluid.
    2. Submerge the other end of the tube in a transparent container of clean brake fluid.
    3. With the help of an assistant, apply the brake pedal slowly and hold.


During the bleeding procedure, make sure your assistant does NOT release the brake pedal while a fitting is loosened or while a bleeder screw is opening. Air will be drawn back into the system.
  1. While the assistant continues to apply pressure to the brake pedal, loosen the bleeder screw, and watch for air bubbles in the container.

Be very careful when loosening the wheel cylinder and brake caliper bleeding screws. The bleeder screws often rust in position and may easily break off if forced. To help prevent the possibility of breaking a bleeder screw, spray it with some penetrating oil before attempting to loosen it. Installing a new bleeder screw will often require removal of the component and may include overhaul or replacement of the wheel cylinder/caliper.
  1. Tighten the bleeder screw.
  2. Instruct the assistant to release the brake pedal.
  3. Wait approximately 15 seconds, and instruct the assistant to depress the brake pedal again.

Remember, if the reservoir is allowed to empty of fluid during the procedure, air will be drawn into the system and the bleeding procedure must be restarted at the master cylinder assembly.
  1. Repeat steps C through F until there are no air bubbles present in the container.

  1. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
  2. If the brake warning light is on, depress the brake pedal firmly. If there is no air in the system, the light will go out.
  3. Once all the air is bled from the system, install the bleeder screw caps.
  4. After bleeding, make sure that a firm pedal is achieved before attempting to move the vehicle.

Feb 14, 2011 | 1994 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

I'm having a problem with the front-right brake where it's apparently getting very hot. The whole vehicle just recently had a brake job done, drums in back and discs in front. I ended up having to replace...


the brake is getting hot, because it is dragging, i see you have replaced the brake caliper and master cylinder the only thing left is the brake hose that aitches to the caliper, it must not be releasing the fluid back to the master cylinder.

hear is a way to test the brake system to find out what is causing the drag.

jack up the car and place on jack stands, have someone pump up and hold the brakes, wile you put pressure on the wheels, the instant the brake peddle is released the wheel should turn easily, if it does not open the bleeder if the wheel instantly turns easily then you need to replace the hose if not then replace the caliper.

Jan 25, 2011 | Honda Accord Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to bleed brakes on 1997 Saturn


The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.
  1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
    2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
    3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
    4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder.
    5. Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
    6. Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.
  1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
    1. Right rear
    2. Left front
    3. Left rear
    4. Right front
  2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
    1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
    2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
    3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
    4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
  3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
zjlimited_349.jpg

Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

zjlimited_350.jpg

Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

zjlimited_351.jpg

Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system





Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

Dec 29, 2010 | 1997 Saturn SL

4 Answers

How to air bleeding in break system by step by


you need two persons
open the bleeder screw on the wheel that is furthest from the master cylinder and do the nearest last.
have a person pump on the brake pedal and hold firm while you open the screw, then close it before tell the person pump again
repeat until you see no more air come out
make sure you fill up the master cylinder, do not let it run out of fluid

Feb 26, 2010 | 1998 Toyota Camry

2 Answers

Changed break line but still have no pressure in breaks


to do a complete job. you need to bleed all 4 wheels, starting from Right Rear. Right front. Left Rear. Left Front.

Apr 07, 2009 | 1995 Chevrolet Silverado 2500

2 Answers

I need to know how to bleed the brakes on a 1999 chevy blazer


Start from right rear, then, left rear, right front, left front. Fill master cylinder. Have helper sit in car, have helper hold brake pedal down. open bleed screw. fluid and air comes out. close screw. release brake pedal. Continue until no air comes out. Move to next wheel. Keep an eye on master cylinder fluid level after each wheel.

Mar 27, 2009 | 1999 Chevrolet Blazer

2 Answers

1990 chev 1/2 ton two wheel drive, left front brake sticking, sometimes, now pulls to right when brakes applied. took off left caliber and sprayed with brake cleaner and that seemed to help. but still not...


The Quickest way to fix this is to Replace that Caliper. If you don't have the Dough right Now----Take the Caliper off, and Compress the Cylinder Back into the Caliper While Turning the Bleeder Valve Slowly, When no more Brake fluid Comes out of the Bleeder Valve Tighten Back and Reinstall the Caliper and Pump the Brake Pedal to ReSeat the Cylinder. Sometimes this works on the Chevy Trucks!

Dec 31, 2008 | 1990 Chevrolet K1500

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