Question about 2002 Ford Ranger Regular Cab
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
i will try to help. 171/174 indicates lean condition in engine. the mass air flow sensor is located in the rubber tube going to throttlebody. you can try to clean it. using mild carb cleaner safe for sensors, remove sensor from tube. spray clean the tiny wires located in the cylinder. do not touch them, they are very delicate. these engines are also notorious for leaking intake gaskets and faulty pcv valves. these will all set these 2 codes. feel free with anymore questions.
Posted on Nov 15, 2008
Save your money, the chip is a ohm resistor at Radio Shack for under $2.00. It splices in to you IAT wire harness located at the intake tube between the air filter housing and throttle body.
Problem with this system is, that you can not adjust anything and have to run a constant 91 octane just to make sure you do not have a Detonation. The ECM will catch the Detonation from the knock sensor and compensate for it by retarding the timing which in turn lose of HP till next start up.
If you like and don't mind the check engine light on once and awhile, you can do the same by just disconnecting the IAT wire harness which give the ECM a 0 resistance thinking it's -20 out side and turn the timing up and lengths the injector pules.
When i was running a Nitro in the Toy before i sold it, i had installed a 10K ohm Potentiometer which you can buy at radio shack for under $5.00 i believe, I just spliced it in to the IAC wire harness so if i wanted to play with the Nitro I'ld turn the resistor up making the engine think it's 185 degrees F and would ****** the timing so i would not hurt the engine. But if i wanted to get more timing i would just turn the knob to drop the resistance to get more time since the engine thinks it's -20 out side.
Hope this helps. Keep me posted if you need more info. Best thing is to do a dyno tune and you can change everything right down to the Shift points.
Posted on May 29, 2009
take my advice, bro. When you're not 100% sure what the feedback had indicated, either the cam or the crank sensors. In my opinion, unless you are a professional mechanic having proper knowledge on the mechanics of this car, I would suggest you take the car to a dealer workshop and get it checked properly, because if you make a mistake and stuff the timing or interfer with the sensors and then it wont work as it should, you'll end up paying more than if you had the car serviced by a professional mechanic who specializes in this field, because these days cars have such delicate components and onboard computers, it is impossible to do the repairs yourself. This is no longer the 60-70's wehn you could fix a car yourself. Today, at the opening of your Ford's bonnet there is an intricate network of pipes, tubes, wires, anti-pollution monitors and other 'no-touch' componentry running to and from one end and another. So, to go ahead and do it youself, it would mean you first have to remove this 'component', then that 'bolt', and so on, eventually it will turn out you'll be stripping your engine and cannot recall what goes where. And, of course if you don't have the proper machines to monitor the cam dwell and timing, you'll further aggravate the problem. Although the repair manual tells you this and that but does it tell you the kind of machines and testing devices you'd need to test the sensors and or to reset the timing and cam dwell angle, or an oscilloscope to test other functions for a smooth running engine should you wish to do it yourself?
Posted on Oct 06, 2009
Exhaust gas recirculation flow insufficient detected.
Maybe you got a bad DPFE sensor, or the pintel inside the egr valve is not opening all the way causing the insufficient flow.
Posted on May 14, 2010
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