Question about 1989 Mazda MPV

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My 1989 4cylinder mazda mpv mini van has just started to stall. It seems to happen after travelling about 30kms at highway speed, I come to a complete stop, the engine idles normally, then when I press the gas pedal, it sputters and stalls. After leaving it for about 2 minutes, it starts right up like nothing happened. This happened to me twice in one day, and didn't happen over short distances, could this be the fuel pump?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Mazda MPV 2003 Turn Off On The Highway

I had a similar problme to this years ago on a VW that I was driving.

I took it into the the shop and they said that they couldn't find the problem either and couldn't get the car to do it when they tested it.

Then a few weeks later it happened to me again as I was out in the country and an old farmer stopped by to help.

He discovered that the wire leading to the alternator was too thin. It would over heat and then shut the car down. Once it cooled off, it would start up like nothing.

He got a larger piece of wire and and changed it for me right there on the spot. It took about 5 minutes and I was off and running.

I never had the problem again.

I don't know if this is the same thing that you have, but it's worth a look.

Good luck.

Posted on Nov 04, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: where are the spark plugs

Here's where I found mine on my 2000 protege.

First you're not looking for the right wire type! If you're looking for a standard 1/4" black wire that would normally run from a distributor cap to the plug you would be wrong... so:


Look right on top of the aluminum engine block and you will see the word Mazda and behind that you'll see your engine size. Between the two you'll see a round black rubber grommet and two black blocks with wires running through them (these are the ignition coils). If you look closely you'll see another rubber grommet under all the wiring. Your plugs are under all that wiring in about 4" deep wells.

First you will need to remove four bolts that hold the coils into place (2) per for a total of (4) bolts. If I recall correctly you will need a 10mm socket to get these out.

Before continuing mark each of the four cables with a number (1-4, left to right) so you don't get these mixed up.

Next pull on the rubber grommet labeled #1 (NOT THE WIRE) and pull it all the way out. You will see your plug waaaay down below.

Hints: Using a 6" extension on your socket remove all the old plugs first. When doing so use the rubber sleeve that is inside the socket to help get the plug out of the well.

When putting the new plugs in remove the rubber sleeve from inside the socket so that the socket can be pulled off the plug and out of the well.


Notes:
1.) Always use an anti-seize compound on the threads of the new spark plugs. This can be purchased along with the plugs.
2.) NEVER over-tighten. Snug is 'snuff.
Hope that helps.






Posted on Dec 24, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: engine bogs and stalls

Check the air filter hose. My '99 Protege was idling rough and would sometimes shut off. The air filter hose was cracked half way around. I replaced it (easy just loosen two hose clamps and pull out the sensor) and the car is running fine.

Posted on Dec 27, 2008

StormStrikes
  • 104 Answers

SOURCE: how do i get the trouble codes off a 1989 mazda mpv?

http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/3331/obdikx3.jpg

The above link is to a diagram of your ALDL connector, all you need is a paper clip, straighten out the paper clip and insert one end into the diagnostic test pin and one in the system ground pin (terminals A & B).

Then put the key in the ignition and turn it to the on position but DO NOT start the engine. You will then see the check engine light flash. It will initially start by flashing once, then a pause and then flash twice and it will repeat this three times. That flash sequence indicates 12, which just means the system is operating. Its the flash sequences after that that will give you the code if any are stored.

For instance if it flashes twice, then pauses, then flashes four times, thats code 24. So any flash sequence you get after the initial 12 (flash once, pause, flash twice) you need write those down. Below is a list of diagnostic codes to tell you what the codes mean.

Code 12
1 flash, pause, 2 flashes
Diagnostic: This Code will flash whenever the diagnostic terminal is grounded with the ignition switch turned on and the engine is not running.

Code 13
1 flash, pause 3 flashes
Oxygen sensor voltage stays between 0.35 and 0.55 volts for 30 seconds when the TPS signal was above 0.55 volts. The engine had been running for at least 40 seconds with an engine temperature above 110° F.

Code 14
1 flash, pause, 4 flashes
Coolant temperature sensor signal indicates a temperature of over 284° F for 4 seconds after the engine had been running for at least 10 secondsCoolant Sensor Circuit (high temperature) If the engine is experiencing overheating problems, have those fixed before continuing. Check all wiring and connectors associated with the coolant temperature sensor. Replace the Coolant temperature sensor.

Code 15
1 flash, pause, 5 flashes
Coolant Sensor Circuit (low temperature) Coolant temperature sensor signal indicates a temperature colder than -36° F for at least 4 seconds after the engine had been running for 2 seconds. See above, then check wiring connections at the ECM

Code 16
1 flash, pause, 6 flashes
Charging system voltage was either below 9 volts or above 17 volts for 10 seconds. System High Voltage If the voltage is above 17.1 volts for more than 2 seconds, the Service Engine Soon light will illuminate. Have the charging system checked.

Code 17
1 flash, pause, 7 flashes
PCM did not detect any spark reference pulses within 240 fuel control reference pulses (80 crank revolutions) while engine was running below 1200 RPM. Spark Reference Circuit.

Code 21
2 flashes, pause, 1 flash
Throttle Position Sensor, TPS voltage was above 0.8 volts for 5 seconds when engine was running and air flow was less than 15 gm/sec, or the TPS voltage was over 4.8 volts at any time.

Code 22
2 flashes, pause, 2 flashes
Throttle Position Sensor check TPS adjustment. Replace the TPS sensor. TPS voltage was under 0.2 volts for 4 seconds when the ignition was on. Check for a sticking, or mis-adjusted throttle position sensor.

Code 23
2 flashes, pause, 3 flashes
Inlet air temperature sensor signal showed an air temperature of -29° F for 4 seconds. Manifold Air Temperature. Check the MAT sensor, wiring, and connectors for a possible open circuit. replace the MAT sensor.

Code 24
2 flashes, pause, 4 flashes
Vehicle speed sensor signal showed less than 3 MPH for 2 seconds when engine speed was greater than 3000 RPM and transmission has not been in park or neutral for more than 4 seconds. Or vehicle speed goes from above 18 MPH to 0 in less than 2 seconds without applying brake. This code can only appear when the vehicle is in motion, if it appears when the car is not in motion, ignore it. Check ECM connections, any other problems should be diagnosed by a qualified mechanic.

Code 25
2 flashes, pause, 5 flashes
Inlet air temperature sensor signal showed an air temperature of over 218° F for 5 seconds when vehicle speed was greater than 35 MPH. Check the voltage between the MAT sensor and the ECM. voltage should be above 4 volts.

Code 26
2 flashes, pause, 6 flashes
Quad-Driver sense voltage shows a low voltage when battery voltage should be present, or if the sense voltage shows battery voltage when a low voltage should be present for at least 5 seconds when the engine was running. Have the car checked by a dealer.

Code 27
2 flashes, pause, 7 flashes
2nd gear switch was closed or grounded for 10 seconds when vehicle was in 4th gear, or 2nd or 4th gear switch was open when engine was first started. Gear switch Diagnosis Have the car checked by a dealer.

Code 28
2 flashes, pause, 8 flashes
3rd gear switch was closed or grounded for 10 seconds when vehicle was in 4th gear, or 3rd or 4th gear switch was open when engine was first started.

Code 29
2 flashes, pause, 9 flashes
4th gear switch was closed or grounded for 10 seconds when vehicle was in 4th gear, or 4th gear switch was open when engine was first started.

Code 31
3 flashes, pause, 1 flash
PRNDL indicates a gear other than park or neutral for 13 seconds for 3 consecutive startups when ignition was on, engine was off and vehicle speed was 0. Or the PRNDL status indicators (A, B, C, P) showed an incorrect combination of Lo and Hi for more than 10 seconds.
Check all connectors, and for a faulty switch.

Code 32
3 flashes, pause 2 flashes
EGR System Check vacuum hoses and connections for leaks and restrictions. Replace the EGR solenoid or valve.

Code 33
3 flashes, pause, 3 flashes
MAF Sensor Have the mass air flow sensor replaced.

Code 34
3 flashes, pause, 4 flashes
There was no MAF signal for over 4 seconds while engine was running. Check for loose or damaged air duct, misadjusted minimum idle speed and cacuum leaks. Inspect the MAF sensor and the electrical connections.

Code 38
3 flashes, pause, 8 flashes
The Torque Converter Clutch portion of the brake switch was open and caused the TCC to be inoperative, adjust OR replace switch.

Code 39
3 flashes, pause, 9 flashes
Torque Converter Clutch Check ECM connections, check for faulty Torque Conver Clutch solenoid.

Code 41
3 flashes, pause, 1 flash
Cam sensor signal was not received by PCM for the last 5 seconds while engine was running. Check for faulty connections, or a faulty cam sensor. Maybe also indicate a problem with the vehicle's timing chain.

Code 42
4 flashes, pause, 2 flashes
The Electronic Spark Timing (EST) signal did not change when the ECM applied bypass voltage to the ignition module. Check for faulty connections, or a faulty ignition module.

Code 43
4 flashes, pause, 3 flashes
Knock sensor signal was either above 3.5 volts or below 1.5 volts for at least 20 seconds. Check for a faulty knock sensor, or Mem-Cal.

Code 44
4 flashes, pause, 4 flashes
Oxygen sensor voltage was under 0.25 volts for up to 4 1/2 minutes of closed loop operation, lean exhaust. Check the ECM wiring connections. Check for vacuum leaks at the hoses and intake manifold gasket.

Code 45
4 flashes, pause, 5 flashes
Oxygen sensor voltage was over 0.75 volts for 2 minutes in closed loop operation with a throttle angle between 0.6 and 1.9 volts. Rich exhaust. Check the evaporative charcoal canister and its components for the presence of fuel.

Code 46
4 flashes, pause, 6 flashes
Power Steering pressure switch Check for faulty connections, or a faulty switch.

Code 48
4 flashes, pause 8 flashes
Misfire Diagnosis. Check the ignition and fuel systems.

Code 51
5 flashes, pause, 1 flash
Prom or Mem-Cal Make sure the MEM-Cal or prom is properly installed in the ECM. Replace Mem-Cal or prom.

Code 52
5 flashes, pause, 2 flashes
Cal-Pak Check the Cal-Pak to insure properation. replace the Cal-Pak.


Code 54
5 flashes, pause, 4 flashes
EGR #2 solenoid was out of range for 6 of 8 tests. 55 EGR #3 solenoid was out of range for 3 of 5 tests.

Code 55
5 flashes, pause, 5 flashes
ECM Check for faulty connections. Replace the ECM.

Code 56
5 flashes, pause, 6 flashes
Quad-driver voltage was incorrect for 5 seconds on the circuit connected to QDM "B".

Code 57
5 flashes, pause, 7 flashes
Boost control solenoid did not open bypass valve causing engine torque to be too high.

Code 63
6 flashes, pause, 3 flashes
EGR flow was incorrect. EGR solenoid did not work properly. Have vehicle serviced by a dealer.

Code 64
6 flashes, pause, 4 flashes
Same as Code 63 EGR flow was incorrect. EGR solenoid did not work properly.

Code 65
6 flashes, pause, 5 flashes
Same as Code 63.

Posted on Dec 31, 2008

mnabi01
  • 94 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 mazda 3 stalls off idle

i found out from dealer there was a service bulitan for this problem. mazda reprogram the ecm for idle speed contorol . problem solved.

thank you

Posted on Jan 28, 2009

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Mazda MPV 2003 Turn Off On The Highway


I had a similar problme to this years ago on a VW that I was driving.

I took it into the the shop and they said that they couldn't find the problem either and couldn't get the car to do it when they tested it.

Then a few weeks later it happened to me again as I was out in the country and an old farmer stopped by to help.

He discovered that the wire leading to the alternator was too thin. It would over heat and then shut the car down. Once it cooled off, it would start up like nothing.

He got a larger piece of wire and and changed it for me right there on the spot. It took about 5 minutes and I was off and running.

I never had the problem again.

I don't know if this is the same thing that you have, but it's worth a look.

Good luck.

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