I have a 2002 Acura R.L. - its in great condition put the miles are starting to rack up on the car i'm running into the natural wear and tear. There is 105,000 miles on the car and from talking to mechanics, acura owners they are telling me that I should be getting the Timing Belt fixed; along with the T.B. i'm told to replace all 6 spark plugs; also, i'm getting only 17 mpg on my car and i'm told its a bad sensor that will need to be replace. Finally, when i accelerate my car, it makes a sqweely noice... this has been going on for a year but it only does it when its dry outside.
What i'm looking for is advise... its not that i don't trust these people but its more of me knowing how much its going to cost me. This is price.
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Any moisture in the lens can cause this (replace light housing). Also touching the glass part of the bulb will do this too. Wear rubber doctor gloves while replacing it's the natural grease in the skin that causes this to happen
Hello, I looked up some defects listed with the NHTSA for your car. There are a number of different defects listed, but the closest is a problem with the front strut spring rubbing on the strut cover. A problem like this should leave a shiny spot on the 2 parts that are rubbing.
I would look under the car to verify the rub marks as the problem. The other possibilities are a slipping Serpetine belt, or a rack and pinion unit that has a bent extension shaft, or a balljoint allowing a tire to pitch out too far in a turn.
The Serpetine belt will make a noise if the belt has stretched, the tension pulley is weak, or the steering pump is straining to operate the Rack and Pinion. A bent shaft on the Rack and Pinion can cause the steering pump to strain. You normally replace belts around 40,000 miles. Since this car is new to you, you can get both the belt and the Tensioner pulley at Autozone, Advance, or Oreillys, as well as other small parts stores.
Having those 2 new parts should be normal maintenance at 90,000 miles. If the noise persists, check for slop in the ball-joint and strut tower. The Rack and Pinion unit can be partially tested with hydraulic gauges by a technician.
The Focus is a fairly common car and many Independent shops have experience working on them. You can shop around for a diagnosis to compare their ideas to ours. Wear and tear items like any of the Parts I mentioned, can give you problems after 90,000 Miles.
I hope I have been very helpful in giving you some things to look at.
Gm says a 3800 engine should last ove 400,000 miles with normal service. This engine for 97 will probably need a new plastic intake manifold one day. They will leak coolant into the combustion chamber and some un-educated mechanics will tell you that it needs head gaskets as they don't have a head gasket problem. The oil pan may leak on this car too, replace it with a fel-pro perma dry gasket and it will stop it. Mine has 297,000+ miles on it.
That is almost impossible to tell as there are so many different factors involved. How the cars been driven, weather, road conditions, length and frequency of trips, etc...
One thing I can safely say is that an 8 year old car is probably going to need something unless it has been maintained to the T and driven perfectly, in perfect weather, perfect climate, perfect road conditions, etc. Even then something is bound to go bad just because of the age.
It depends on what kind of uneven wear you are talking about if the front is wearing on the inside or outside on one side or both yes you need an alignment but if front tires are are worn about the same on the inside and outside of the tire that is not uncommon it is better to rotate the tires about every 5,000-7,000 and keep the air close to maximum as they will get you better gas mileage and wear better example if the tire says a maximum of 44psi put about 38-40psi when tires are cold and havent been ran.If those are the original tires and you have 49,000 on your car then you don't need an alignment.
The Brembos that come on Type S/Manual models wear fast. I've changed them at 20,000 miles. They are expensive also.
Non-Type S/Manual models I have seen go 80,000 miles. The biggest factor on brake wear is how the vehicle is driven.
At 50,000 miles I would have them inspected. Depending on where you go, make sure you get an accurate measurement of both pads (inboard and outboard). 2mm is the service limit and about that time the indicators start making noise, but not always. Most indepent shops are going to sell you brake pads at 4mm. That's another 10,000 miles at least you could have driven on them.
Never replace just the brake pads, resurface or replace the rotors. The uneven surfaces of the rotor will cause your new pads to wear incorrectly and possibly cause brake noise. Most aftermarket pads will cause a squeel.