Question about Ford Taurus
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Be sure the exhaust is not extremely hot! I suggest using a good quality O2 sensor socket or a 7/8" flare nut wrench. These two will give you the best grip without slipping off. Once it loosens, slowly work it back and forth using a lubricant such as WD-40 or Liquid Wrench. This should keep the threads from being damaged, as they will be very rusted from extreme heat and weather. Take your time. Once removed, it is a good idea to use a thread chaser or cleaner to remove the remaining rust. It is a tool with the identical threads as the sensor. You could also use a tap of the same size. Someone you know might have one, unless you are friends with a mechanic at a good repair shop. Next, be sure there is anti-seize compound on the threads. There should be a sufficient amount applied from the factory. This will make the threads easier to tighten, and make the sensor easier to remove for the next time. Be sure there is no anti-seize on the portion that protrudes into the exhaust stream. It can foul and ruin a new sensor. Once you have threaded the unit into the exhaust pipe, tighten to specifications. DO NOT overtighten. The old threads can easily be stripped out. If you don't have a torque wrench, just tighten it as you would a sprark plug. It won't fall out. Plug in the sensor, and test drive to check your work. Also be sure there are no wires contacting the exhaust pipe.
Posted on Jul 18, 2009
B1 means the sensor is located on the same bank of the engine that has the #1 cylinder. B2 is located on the opposite bank.
S1 means the sensor is located BEFORE the catalytic converter
S2 means the sensor is located AFTER the catalytic converter
You didn't say which engine you have, so I've included the diagrams of both 4 cyl and 6 cyl so you can see the banks
Posted on Oct 20, 2009
If it was the upper o2 this is the one.This does not mean the o2 is bad,check the spark plugs and boots,and fuel pressure.The fuel ratio is not correct on that bank.
Posted on Apr 13, 2010
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