Question about BMW 318

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Can't find timing marks on pulleys?where i have to line up with?don't have the special bmw tools.i'm motor mechanic by the way.

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Hi,

BMW does not rely on timing marks for precise engine timing. Correct basic engine timing is achieved when the camshafts and crank shafts have been locked into exact alignment with special tools prior to timing chain installation. However incorrect setting or installation without the use of special tools could damage or break crankshafts.Vaves could also be bent through contact with the piston crowns.

You did not mention the year and the car model .However giving you some links along with pictures for your information:-

http://e30world.com/engine/BMW-E30-timing-belt-and-water-pump

http://www.exx.se/techinfo/timing/index.html

http://www.e38.org/m62tu.pdf

http://www.e38.org/e32/E32%20735%20Head%20Gasket%20Replacement.pdf

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/190D/Timing.jpg

Also you can buy service manual from here:-

http://www.bentleypublishers.com/

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.
Thank you for contacting fixya.com

Posted on May 24, 2011

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How to get the timing chain connect to the camshaft seems like it isnt long enough to fit back on the cam shaft


10_26_2011_12_04_35_am.jpg
Slow but Steady Though you'll spend only a few minutes replacing the timing belt itself, it can take an hour or more to dig down through the spaghetti of hoses, wiring and covers found in a modern engine bay. We even had to disconnect and cap a pair of fuel lines when we did the job on this VW 2.0-liter Four.

Study the procedure before digging in, either in a service manual or on the Web. On most transverse four-cylinder engines, you'll have to remove the passenger-side motor mount in order to gain access to the timing belt. This means the entire powertrain needs to be supported in that area while you're working. And finally, getting to the lower portion of multipiece timing belt covers usually requires underbody access. A fender cover doesn't hurt either, to protect the paint from your belt buckle and dropped tools

10_26_2011_12_06_29_am.jpg
(1) Remove any shrouding in the wheel well so you can access the crankshaft snout and the lower timing belt pulley.

(2a) Find the timing marks on the flywheel and cam, and set them both to TDC.

(2b) The flywheel pulley TDC mark is accessible through a hole in the bellhousing.

(2c) The camshaft TDC is easy to find -- especially if you add white paint as we did.
Time and Time Again We cannot stress this enough: Be careful! Make sure you know where the timing marks are on your engine, and that you have them set up properly with No. 1 cylinder at top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke before attempting to replace the timing belt.

Why? 1) That interference engine thing again; and 2) Every camshaft and crankshaft on planet Earth is indexed to No. 1 TDC. If you try to remove and replace the timing belt with the engine in any other position, chances are good you'll throw things out of time. Then you'll get confused and have to pull off the valve cover as you try to determine when No. 1's valves are closed (which begins the compression stroke) in order to re-index the engine. Get your marks lined up right the first time.

After you remove the top section of the timing belt cover, you should see a timing mark on the camshaft sprocket -- this mark usually lines up with the edge of the cylinder head or valve cover. For the crankshaft below, there probably will be a timing mark on the damper pulley that lines up with another mark on the lower cover. Or, the service manual may direct you to the transmission end of the engine to look through a hole in the bellhousing for a timing mark on the flywheel. The flywheel is bolted to the other (transmission) end of the crankshaft. On some vehicles, you may find these marks in all three places



10_26_2011_12_08_47_am.gifupport and Tension Of course, there are professional engine-support rigs available for purchase or rent. But as you can see in our photos, some lumber and an adjustable tiedown strap work just fine to support the powertrain while you remove that cumbersome motor mount. Once it's out of the way, though, you're almost home. Just remove the rest of the timing belt cover sections and turn your attention to the tensioner pulley mechanism.

This tensioner may be an automatic hydraulic type that you simply crank in one direction to remove the old timing belt. Or, you may have to loosen the tensioner pulley adjustment bolt to release the tension and the belt. Before proceeding, confirm which way the engine rotates during normal operation. (Pull the fuel pump relay or fuse first if you need to disconnect fuel lines the way we did. Don't ask how we found this out. We're still getting the gasoline smell out of our coveralls.) Knowing which way the engine turns is important for checking the new belt's alignment later; you don't want to be off by a tooth on one of the sprockets. The easiest way is to have a helper bump over the starter motor with the ignition key while you watch the engine. Of course, now you'll have to reset your timing marks by hand. Don't rotate the engine backward to the marks. Crank it around forward to maintain the correct tension and to keep the belt from jumping teeth.

TDC? Now you can carefully slide the old timing belt off its sprockets and pulleys, while trying to keep the camshaft and crankshaft from spinning. With all the timing marks lined up, route the new belt around the largest diameters first, leaving the smallest pulley or sprocket for last. It's tricky to slip the new, stiffer belt over that last one, but you'll get it after a couple of different wiggling, jiggling attempts. Now, make sure the timing marks are still lined up.

Warning: If you know you're working on an interference engine, do not rotate the camshaft or the crankshaft independently while the timing belt is off the engine. You could cause the pistons to hit the valves, or vice versa, and cause the same damage as if the timing belt had snapped with the engine running -- bent valves!

If you're working with a manual tensioner pulley setup, now is when you perform the factory procedure to tighten the new belt. A hydraulic tensioner takes care of this for you. Once the tension's set, place a socket on the big nut holding the front pulley on and use it to turn the engine over -- two complete crankshaft revolutions in the direction of normal rotation. Line up all the timing marks again. Everything still on the money? Then you've finished replacing the timing belt -- but you have another hour's work to reinstall the cam belt covers, any shrouding, and all the wires, engine accessories and hoses you moved or removed.

10_26_2011_12_09_39_am.jpg

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How to install timing belt on 1998 vw beetle


Instructions
Things You'll Need: · Set of quarter-inch drive sockets Quarter-inch drive ratchet Set of half-inch drive sockets Half-inch drive air gun Set of metric wrenches Special tools for holding camshaft timing #2065-A and injection pump #2064

Step 1

Remove the accessory drive belts and the accessory drive belt tensioner. Remove the upper timing belt cover and the valve cover. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the No.1 cylinder is atop, dead center, with the flywheel timing marks aligned.

Step 2

Install the special tool setting bar (#2065-A) on the rear of the camshaft. If it does not fit, turn the crankshaft once more and line up the timing marks again in the hole of the transmission housing.

Step 3

Insert locking pin #2064 into the injection pump to hold it in position. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolts, the crankshaft pulley and the lower timing belt cover. Loosen the tensioner pulley nut and allow the tensioner to move away from the belt. Loosely tighten the nut to hold the tensioner out of the way. Remove the top guide pulley and the timing belt.

Step 4

Make sure that the timing mark on the flywheel is lined up and that the camshaft setting bar and injection locking pin are in place. Loosen the camshaft bolt a half turn and tap the sprocket with a soft mallet to loosen it off its taper. The sprocket should move freely. Install the top guide pulley and torque to 18 foot pounds of torque.

Step 5

Install the new timing belt, starting on the right side and working counterclockwise. Keep the tension on the right nontensioned side. Loosen the tensioner pulley nut. Using the two-pin wrench, turn the tensioner pulley clockwise until the notch and raised mark are aligned. Torque the tensioner pulley nut to 15 foot pounds of torque. Make sure the flywheel timing mark is still aligned.

Step 6

Torque the camshaft bolt to 33 foot pounds of torque. Remove the locking pin from the injection pump and remove the camshaft setting bar. Turn the crankshaft two turns and check the alignment on the flywheel. Make sure that the setting bar can be inserted easily and that the injection pump locking pin can be inserted. Install all components in reverse order of removal and torque the crankshaft bolt to 18 foot pounds of torque.

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