Question about 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 Truck

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Starter Would not start, found blown starter fuse- replaced soon as turned ignition, heard starter click and fuse blew. Is it possible short in solenoid/starter?

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There is a known deficiency with the ground circuit on these starter circuits and it matchers your symptoms exactly. Chrysler had a bulletin to add a ground strap and modify the existing circuit. You would have to talk to a dealer to get the specifics of that bulletin. (Is it still in warranty?) Those symptoms also relate to a short in the solenoid/starter however and you could try replacing the starter and that most likely will work.
I must ask the obvious question though, have you check your starter cables for breakage/corrosion/connection/other wires touching? I would do that before doing anything else with this. If you don't find anything on the connections, trace the wires back and verify no frays or damage. Its a quick check that could save you some money if you find a problem.

Posted on Aug 16, 2008

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When I try to start the engine theres a click but the engine doesent start.


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There is no reaction when turning the key to start the car


Turn key to On.
Turn on headlights manually... Do they come on?
Are there any lights on the dash?
If yes to these, battery is possibly not the sole problem.
Check for good, tight and clean connections at battery terminal posts!
If yes to above, continue on & get a helper... Turn key past on, to Start position.
Do you hear a click sound at time key is turned to Start?
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Pic any No's... Then look there.
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I have an '04 Sebring Convertible with the 2.7L V-6 engine. It has been running fine with no problems for over a year since I bought it. Then the other day, I had it detailed and drove it home...


This happens all too often on the Chryslers, the starter fuse blowing. The cause in most cases is the starter solenoid. I recommend replacing the starter and the solenoid when this happens, to keep from having to do it again a few months later, I hope this helps.

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Replaced A 60am Fuse ,Ran For Two Days. Car Died and now i have no electrial juice to the whole car. suspect fuseable link.


You may be correct about the fusible link. Replacing a blown fuse without finding and repairing the reason it blew only leads to more problems and possible severe damage to wiring harnesses. Fuses are NEVER the CAUSE of an electrical problem. Blown fuses are ALWAYS the RESULT of an electrical problem. I would recommend taking the vehicle to someone who has access to the wiring diagrams and the proper equipment necessary to repair your electrical system. A blown 60 Amp fuse is nothing to play with. That fuse gave up it's life to stop your vehicle from burning to the ground. Please don't make it die in vain...car fires are never pretty!

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40 amp ignition fuse blew. I replaced the fuse and now the lights all go on when the key is turned on but the vehicle will not start...or even try to start. The battery is fully charged.


The 40 amp maxi fuse in the underhood junction block (According to the information I have, there is only one 40 amp fuse in there..) goes directly to the ignition switch. From there, it goes to the buss bar in the Instrument Panel Fuse Block where it feeds several smaller fuses. It also feeds the starter relay in the Underhood Fuse and Relay Center.

My biggest concern would be: What caused the fuse to blow in the first place?

If you get nothing else from my preaching, get this:

Fuses don't blow for no reason....ESPECIALLY not a 40-amp Maxi Fuse!

I can't count how many times I have heard people say: "It's JUST a blown fuse." WHAT???

I have been at this for 35 years and I can tell you that blown fuses are reason for major concern in my book. That 40-Amp Maxi Fuse just saved your truck from burning to the ground and you need to find out why!

The only way that fuse is going to blow is if there is a direct short to ground between the Underhood Fuse and Relay Center and the Instrument Panel Fuse Block (The only "component" between these two is the ignition switch.) or if the secondary side of the starter relay circuit is shorted to ground. The secondary side of the starter relay feeds the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid. (at the starter)

I think the first place I would look for the problem would be the circuit between the starter relay and the starter. It is likely to be shorted against the exhaust or engine block. If this is the case, it most likely fried the starter relay in the process. (which is why the fuse no longer blows and the engine no longer starts)

Aftermarket remote starting units are also usually tied into this circuit. If your vehicle has one of these, it could very likely be the original source of your problem.

At any rate, there should be no rest, truck running or not, until the reason for the blown fuse is found. You will most likely get the truck running in the process of locating the reason for the blown fuse.

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Recheck the wires coming from the starter, for rub-thru, and grounding. Commonly a wire gets pinched between the starter and the starter housing. Wiring touching or near the exhaust manifold can melt, check there too :)

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If the fuse blew at once, then you have an electrical short. Try disconnecting power lead to start, cover with insulating tape/electrical tape, put new fuse in place, and attempt to "start". if fuse does not blow then the starter motor has an internal fault, replace starter and enjoy. Keep me posted as you perform these tests.

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It could be a bad starter.
And a dead short within the starter would cause the fuses to blow as you mentioned.

I would pull the starter off, and take it into a local parts store to be tested.
If it does pass, you have taken that part of the problem out of the equation, and can begin looking for other causes.

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