Question about 1992 GMC Jimmy

19 Answers

'92 Jimmy rear brake failure


Rear brakes do not apply enough pressure to pass inspection. With the brake applied, you can"t turn them by hand, but they do not even register on the inspection test.
I have replaced the shoes and wheel cylinders, resurfaced the drums, replaced all the fluid, fully adjusted the shoes, and bled the system several times. The problem remains. Subsequently, I replaced the master cylinder, also with no effect.
Have you ever encountered this problem, or do you have any clues to its origin?

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  • 4 more comments 
  • razang Aug 16, 2008

    Vacuum hose is good; no leaks. Vacuum at booster is 21 inches. Pedal travel is normal. Front brakes work fine.

  • razang Aug 20, 2008

    Your answer gives sage advice, but unfortunatly it does not address my problem. As I originally wrote, the rear brakes were completely re-done. The emergency brake works fine. It is the lack of sufficient pressure in the hydraulic system that is the problem.

  • razang Sep 11, 2008

    I need the advise of someone with expertise in ABS systems to tell me if any of those components could be the cause of insufficient pressure in the rear hydraulic lines, and if so, which component is the most likely suspect. There are no diagnostic codes present. Rear wheel sensors both have correct resistance readings. Problem persists even when the electrohydraulic control unit is electrically disconnected.

  • razang Sep 11, 2008

    I need the advice of someone with expertise in the ABS sustem for this vehicle. I need to know if any of those components can cause reduced pressure in the rear brake lines, and if so which component is the most likely suspect. There are no diagnostic codes present. Resistance readings on both rear wheel sensors are whithin range. The problem persists even when the electro-hydraulic control unit is electrically disconnected.

  • razang Sep 22, 2008

    The ABS warning light is not on.
    There is no dump valve on this model. That function may be built into the EHCU.

  • Anonymous Mar 20, 2014

    NEW MASTER CYLINDER HAS BEEN APPLIED AND THE SENSOR DOES NOT REGISTER THAT THE ISSUE HAS BEEN FIXED

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19 Answers

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  • Master
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How to flush the brake system

1) Pull as much old fluid out ofreservoir as possible with a turkey baster, refill with fresh fluid.
2) Fill Power Bleeder with new fluid
3) Hook Power Bleeder to master cylinder
4) Start at right rear; remove wheel
5) I built up a drain bottle which had a "tee" in it, with a separate 1/4" or so clear plastic tubing attached to each part of the upper "tee". Each tubing end gets attached to a bleed screw.
6) Open both bleed screws, drain out a 1/4 pint or so (fluid looks clear with no bubbles).
7) Close bleed screws, remove tubing, reattach wheel.
8) Go to LR, RF, LF in that succession and repeat (4)-(7).
During (6), helps to tap brake caliper with a rubber or wood mallet.


Posted on Sep 03, 2008

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  • Master
  • 2,028 Answers

This will be a problem with either a collapsed brake line or the proportional valve. A collapsed line will not allow the proper flow and pressure to the brake assembly, and a faulty proportional valve will allow the pressure to bleed back into the system. You can test for these with a pressure tester. If the pressure is low but constant while the brake pedal is held down, it's a collapsed line. If the pressure drops off slowly while the brake pedal is held down, then it's the proportional valve.

Posted on Aug 20, 2008

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  • 111 Answers

It could be a metering valve or porportion valve

Posted on Sep 27, 2008

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  • Master
  • 1,665 Answers

Have a look at bleeding procedure OF BRAKE SYSTEM. i think it helps.
There are no special bleeding procedures for the ABS SYSTEM. For bleeding, please use the standard rules as described for the conventional brake system as follows: 1. Remove the reservoir cap and fill the brake reservoir with brake fluid.'92 Jimmy rear brake failure - 5eb649a.jpg
Do not allow brake fluid remain on a painted surface. Wash it off immediately. When bleeding by pressurized fluid, do not depress the brake pedal. 2. Connect the vinyl tube to the wheel cylinder bleeder plug and insert the other end of tube in a half-full container of brake fluid.
1a15ab3.jpg 3. Slowly pump the brake pedal several times. 4. While depressing the brake pedal fully, loosen the bleeder plug until fluid starts to run out. Then, close the bleeder screw. 5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until there are no more bubbles in the fluid. 6. Tighten the bleeder plug screw. 7. Repeat the above procedure for each wheel in the sequence shown in the illustration.
'92 Jimmy rear brake failure - 895ca52.gifttp://i.fixya.net/uploads/images/895ca52.gif" alt="895ca52.gif" class="h_mi" />

Posted on Sep 22, 2008

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  • GMC Master
  • 19,396 Answers

If that was a problem with the ABS, the brakes would just lock up (abs is anti blockage system). Instead in your case the brakes do not have enough braking power.

That simply mean that you have to do brakes calibration properly, no need for looking for complicate solutions.

If brakes are new, drive also 100 miles or so to get the brakes shape adapting and getting a stronger grip.

See also
Drum Brake Adjustment Procedure

Posted on Sep 22, 2008

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  • Master
  • 674 Answers

Hi
i have a 92 chevy pu that we have a snow blade that we had the same problem.
it has Kelsey-Hayes RWAL Antilock Brakes.
The Kelsey-Hayes rear wheel antilock brake system obviously only affects the rear brakes. On trucks with 4WD, the antilock system only works in the two-wheel drive mode. The conventional master brake cylinder and power booster supplies brake pressure to the EH valve, which contains two solenoid valves: a normally open isolation valve to block pressure from the master cylinder to the rear brakes during antilock braking, and a normally closed dump valve for relieving pressure in the rear brake circuits. The EH valve also contains a pressure accumulator for storing fluid pressure during the dump or release phase of operation, and a reset switch which allows the system to maintain proper brake pressure.

In GM applications, the brake warning light will be brightest when grounded by the parking brake, a little dimmer when grounded by the hydraulic system and dimmest when grounded by the ABS controller.
To determine the cause of a red brake warning light in a GM application:

  1. Set the parking brake. If the light gets brighter, the problem is not the parking brake.
  2. Unplug the connector from the combination valve by the master cylinder. If the light remains on, the fault is in the ABS system and further diagnosis is required. On GM vehicles, fault codes can be retrieved manually (flash codes) by jumping terminals "A" and "H" (or grounding terminal "H") on the diagnostic connector, or you can use a scan tool such as a Tech 1 or Tech 2.

Posted on Sep 21, 2008

  • paul erickson
    paul erickson Sep 21, 2008

    brakes




  • paul erickson
    paul erickson Sep 21, 2008

    we ended up picking up a used modulator control valve installed and bled ahd our problem was gone. but keep this in mind

    It's important to note that one of the underlying causes of EH valve failure
    is moisture-contaminated brake fluid. If the fluid is more than a couple years
    old, it may contain a lot of moisture. GM trucks do not have a recommended
    service interval for brake fluid, but most experts say that flushing the brake
    lines every couple of years for preventative maintenance can greatly reduce the
    risk of internal corrosion inside the brake lines and EH valve. But most people
    totally ignore their brakes until something goes wrong. So the best you can do
    is flush the system and replace the old fluid with new when the EH valve is
    replaced -- then recommend a fluid change every two years to prevent a repeat
    occurrence.

    Air trapped in the EH valve can be another source of trouble with the RWAL
    system. Some RWAL EH valves (the smaller ones) do not have a bleeder screw,
    which makes the unit hard to bleed if air gets into the lines. The trick here is
    to loosen the brake line connections at the valve to vent air when bleeding the
    brakes.

    Brakes can be bled in the usual way manually or with pressure equipment. The
    wheel bleeding sequence is RR, LR, RF, LF. If a pressure bleeder is used, the
    combination valve must be held open.


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  • Master
  • 5,158 Answers

There is a valve that proportions brake application 60/40 front/rear. that needs to be adjusted or replaced.... also look for contrictions in the brake lines toward the rear brakes. after the replacement of the wheel cylinders i presume the brakes were bled as well so that all air was removed. furthest wheel from the master cyclinder first.


Robert

Posted on Sep 21, 2008

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  • Master
  • 2,035 Answers

Please click on this link to get the detailed view of the brake system:

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528003de6d


Good luck..

Posted on Sep 15, 2008

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  • Master
  • 1,952 Answers

The conventional master brake cylinder and power booster supplies brake pressure to the EH valve, which contains two solenoid valves: a normally open isolation valve to block pressure from the master cylinder to the rear brakes during antilock braking, and a normally closed dump valve for relieving pressure in the rear brake circuits. The EH valve also contains a pressure accumulator for storing fluid pressure during the dump or release phase of operation, and a reset switch which allows the system to maintain proper brake pressure.

Posted on Sep 15, 2008

  • 2 more comments 
  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Sep 15, 2008

    the brake warning light
    will be brightest when grounded by the parking brake, a little
    dimmer when grounded by the hydraulic system and dimmest when
    grounded by the ABS controller.

    To determine the cause of a red brake warning
    light in a GM application:


    1. Set the parking brake. If the light gets
      brighter, the problem is not the parking brake.


    2. Unplug the connector from the combination
      valve by the master cylinder. If the light remains on, the fault
      is in the ABS system and further diagnosis is required.


  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Sep 15, 2008


  • Should not occur (replace the controller
    if it does)

  • Open isolation valve circuit or defective
    ABS module

  • Open dump valve circuit or defective ABS
    module

  • Grounded or closed RABS or RWAL valve switch

  • Excessive actuations of dump valve during
    ABS braking

  • Erratic speed sensor signal

  • Shorted isolation valve or defective ABS
    module

  • Shorter dump valve or defective ABS module


  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Sep 15, 2008

    many more information this site ur car pro blem future use click link

    http://www.automotivehelper.com/cat179-7...



  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Sep 22, 2008

    better u change your rear break pad by followin step

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    • Master
    • 726 Answers

    The antilock brake system module Give the Pressure to Each of the Wheels..
    I'm sure the antilock brake module is not working properly.
    have u bled the brakes
    checked for leaks
    checked brake booster
    checked brake lines
    and check the cylinders

    Posted on Sep 15, 2008

    • chris07551 Sep 18, 2008

      did u machanie the drums?
      'are they worn them selves?
      there cant be no orther option
      if you have done all that abouve they should stop you if you were doin a million mph
      or just replace the hole anti lock module thats were your problem is '


      chris,,,,


    • chris07551 Sep 22, 2008

      after 16 solutions that could have made your car a hole new braking system are you sure the guys at the shop saying not enough pressure are lying? becaus eif u tried all those soulutions it should be fixed so i suggest you take it to a machanic and see if he can diagnose the problem

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    • 214 Answers

    The anti lock brake module is not functioning properly.you have get it repaired or replaced.

    Posted on Sep 03, 2008

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    • Master
    • 1,450 Answers

    Need to bleed bpmv(abs unit)

    When a pressure bleeder is not available, use the (two person) manual bleed procedure. One person will push on the brake pedal while the other person will open and close the bleed valves.

    Important You can expect to use two quarts of brake fluid to thoroughly bleed the system.

    1. Begin by opening the internal bleed screws 1/4 to 1/2 turn, on each side of the BPMV (Figure 2). 2. Attach the valve pressure bleeding tool J 39177 to the left and right high pressure accumulator bleed valve stems of the BPMV (Figure 3). Tighten tool J 39177 only finger tight.
    Note: It is not necessary to attach bleeding tool J 39177 to the combination valve when using the manual bleed procedure.
    3. Bleed each wheel in the following sequence:
    ^ Right rear ^ Left rear ^ Right front ^ Left front
    Note: Rear wheel bleeder valves are 5/16 in. (8 mm) and front wheel bleeder valves are 10 mm.
    Note: A clear plastic hose can be attached to the bleeder valve and immersed into a container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
    4. Slowly apply the brake pedal one time and hold. 5. Loosen the bleeder valve to purge the air from the wheel cylinder/caliper. 6. Tighten the bleeder valve and slowly release the pedal. 7. Wait 15 seconds. 8. Be sure to check the master cylinder fluid level after 4-5 strokes to avoid running dry. 9. Repeat steps 4 through 8, until all air is purged from the wheel cylinder/caliper.
    Note: It may be necessary to repeat this sequence as many as 15 to 20 times per wheel.
    10. Fill the master cylinder to the proper level and replace lid. 11. CLOSE and tighten the two BPMV internal bleed screws (Figure 2) to 7 N-m (60 lbs.in.). 12. Remove the valve pressure bleeding tools J 39177 from the BPMV high pressure accumulator bleed valve stems and the combination valve. 13. With the ignition switch "ON" and the engine off, bleed the pump and pressure (lower) portion of the BPMV by performing six ABS function tests with the Tech-1.
    Important DURING THE TECH-1 FUNCTION TESTS, THE BRAKE PEDAL MUST BE FIRMLY DEPRESSED. THIS WILL PUSH ANY AIR FROM THE CONTROL AREA OF THE BPMV INTO THE BRAKE SYSTEM.
    14. Finally, rebleed the four wheel cylinder/calipers again, to purge any remaining air put into the system during the function tests. Use either the pressure bleed or manual bleed for this step.
    Important DO NOT OPEN THE BPMV INTERNAL BLEED SCREWS OR DEPRESS THE HIGH PRESSURE ACCUMULATOR BLEED VALVES WHEN REBLEEDING AFTER THE FUNCTION TESTS.
    15. Tighten all four wheel cylinder/caliper bleeder valves to 7 N-m (60 lbs. in.). 16. Fill the master cylinder to the proper level with brake fluid. 17. Apply firm pressure to the brake pedal and evaluate the brake pedal feel.
    Important MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A GOOD, HARD BRAKE PEDAL BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO MOVE THE VEHICLE.
    18. Repeat the entire brake bleed procedure if necessary'92 Jimmy rear brake failure - 3052ebe.gif3a40593.gif

    Posted on Aug 20, 2008

    • TripleTauto
      TripleTauto Sep 18, 2008

      you have air in the abs unit!!!!!

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    • Master
    • 373 Answers

    Hi....
    In your problem with the rear brakes.
    If you have replaced the Rear brakes,cylinders and master cylinder.
    If your car DON'T pass the inspection.
    Is mean you have a problem of Brake Fluid Pressure..
    But On my PC. I saw your vehicle is Equipaded with ABS. " anti lock Brake system".
    The antilock brake system module Give the Pressure to Each of the Wheels..
    I'm sure the antilock brake module is not working propertly.

    Or you have Air Traped in the System.

    Try bleeding the system Including the ABS module.....
    If you Don't feel any diference.
    Replace the ABS module. New is spensive But you can get from a Junk yard.

    OK.... I hope this help to try diagnostic your problem.
    Thank you for use fixya...

    Posted on Aug 16, 2008

    • Juan Guillen Sep 22, 2008

      As I told you before.

      I recomend Replace the ABS UNIT.

      If you have checked the Speed sensors. and are good.

      You have replaced everything, But not the ABS UNIT.

      The PRESSURE SELENOIDS VALVE. are stuck or locked up.

      and make a restriction to the outlet ports.

      Check the condition of the Brake lines.

      Open the port from the abs unit. check if there a Pressure. Open the line on the cylinder end.

      Aply compressed air from one end to the other. If the air not pass replace the Brake line.

      If pass do the same with the other LIne. the Brake lines

      some times are damaged , due at corrotions, bent for piece left on the rod, crached.



      I'm a MECHANIC and have ben this problem on the same kind of vehicle.

      Is the job I do everyday.

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    • Master
    • 6,966 Answers

    Hi,

    May I offer an alternate possibility, since you have checked most if not all of the brake system, could it be that your vehicle has a Brake Proportional Valve (aftermarket). Its function is to distribute braking force based on a certain ratio.

    Additionally, you may want to try redoing everything. Except after draining the brake fluid from the system and removing the slaves, apply compressed air at the master's end of the rear brake lines and the opposite (from the rear slave line). You may want to consider that leftover fluid would spray out of the free ends and therefore preventive measure should be included.

    Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

    Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using FixYa.

    Posted on Aug 16, 2008

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    • GMC Master
    • 2,039 Answers

    The repartision valve follow the brake line from the back to the valve check the condition of the line at the same time and rubber hose in the back ok at the valve remove the line check the pressure coming out of the valve if all the line rubber and steel good drill the valve to put the hole thats in the valvejust a bit bigger you gonna see the differense night and day try it out pierre

    Posted on Aug 16, 2008

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    • Master
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    So here we start off with some basic tips to repair your brakes.
    Visual Inspection
    The initial stage requires a visual inspection. A visual inspection takes a few minutes and is done every time the oil change takes place. One can start with checking the color of the fluid in the master cylinder. The change in the color of the oil can help in identifying the impending problems. A transparent and almost clear fluid is good news. But if the color of the fluid turns brown, this means it has expired and is not suitable for the vehicle.
    Further Inspection And Cleaning

  • Mud and road salts are the most common elements that can affect your brakes. For that it is very important to clean the brakes frequently. Carefully remove the first wheel and try to remove as much gunk and debris as possible. While the drums and rear wheels are off, brake parts cleaner should be used to clean the rear brakes. There may be many causes behind the failure of the car brakes but solid dirt particles are the most common ones. So it is always good to start with the brushing and cleaning.
  • Then, if the front and rear parts do not operating properly, these parts need to be replaced.
  • After that, the inspection of brake rotors should be done. Brake rotors are commonly known as discs.
  • Brake drums that are damaged should also be replaced.
  • Next stage involves the inspection of wheel bearings. After the inspection is done, Shoe pads and Caliper slides should be lubricated with moly-based brake grease.
  • To get rid of moisture contamination, it is important to get the brake fluid checked. It involves the inspection of all the brake lines including the wheel cylinders, hoses, master cylinders and calipers. Wheel cylinders and calipers should be checked to detect leakage and severe corrosion. If the master cylinder is found leaking, it should be replaced or rebuilt.
  • The "brake pad wear sensor" on the pad should be inspected for damage or cracks.
  • The final round of inspection requires, ABS (Anti Brake System) check. Always make sure that the pedal is comfortable, and the brakes function properly and quietly to provide you prompt stopping. It is advisable to check each and every component in the brake. If any part of the Brake is damaged or worn out, it should be immediately replaced. After all it's a matter of ones safety.
  • Posted on Aug 15, 2008

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    • Master
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    Brake pads are an integral element of the braking system in a car. As you use your brakes in everyday driving, you will slowly wear down, and, eventually, need to replace the brake pads.
    Disc brakes have been used on the front wheels of cars for decades now - some models are even equipped with disc brakes on all four wheels. You will still find some cars being made with disc brakes at the front and drum brakes on the rear wheels. The reason for this is that the front wheels carry the biggest portion of the load under braking conditions, and disk brakes are more effective.
    Since the front wheels, and thereby the disc brakes, carry the biggest portion of the load under braking conditions, it is critical that your front brakes are operating as well as possible. When it comes to your car's brakes, there is simply no room for substandard or worn out parts.
    Older cars that had disc brakes on the front were equipped with what was referred to as a 'squeaker bar' on the brake pad. This piece of metal would make an extremely loud squeaking noise once the brake pads were worn down. This was how you knew that it was time to replace your worn-out pads. Cars today come with an electronic sensor on the brake pad. When your brakes have worn down, you will see a warning light on your dashboard.
    When this dashboard light is illuminated, or when you start hearing a squeak upon brake application, it is time for you to have your brake pads replaced. If you wait to do so, you are not only causing damage to the brake as a whole, but you are taking a big safety risk.
    If your caris equipped with a wear sensor in the brake pads, you will want to have this sensor replaced along with the pads. The sensor is not generally included with the new pads. If you wait for your brake pads to wear down completely, they will begin to damage your disc rotor - the replacement of which is costly.
    When you press your brake pedal down, the pistons on your brake caliper will push the brake pad down against the brake disc. Ultimately, the pads pressing against the disc is what slows and stops your car. As you can imagine, this process will result in the deterioration of your pads. This is how brake pads are supposed to work; they are not intended to last the life of your car.
    Brake pads are made from a variety of materials. You can purchase pads made from longer-lasting materials if you wish. Those of higher quality also help your car to stop more quickly under heavy braking conditions. Choosing the highest quality brake parts is a smart decision for your safety. Even if you own a Chrysler, you can use aftermarket brakes that will outperform the factory Chrysler parts. Chrysler parts work fine for most drivers, but performance enthusiasts and those who want extra stopping power, will often opt for aftermarket brake parts.
    Be sure to use a great deal of care when replacing your brake parts. If you do not feel comfortable with your own mechanical skills, it may be best to have a professional install the new parts for you. Working on your own brakes is not the time to test your mechanical aptitude. If your brakes are installed incorrectly, they may fail and cause a severe accident.
    It is recommended that you have your brakes checked each time your vehicle's oil is changed - about every 6,000 miles. This quick inspection, paired with proper maintenance of your brake pads, will prevent problems down the road, ensuring the safety of you and your family.

    Posted on Aug 15, 2008

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    • Master
    • 958 Answers

    Have you checked the vacuum source of the master cylinder?. if it has a leak then it wont work properly. check the hose from cracks and chippings. check where it is connected and check if you have a good source of vacuum from your engine

    is the pedal hard to step unto?

    you have replaced everything and that is the only part that you have not look unto yet.

    i hope i was able to fix ur problem..

    tnx
    drcool

    Posted on Aug 15, 2008

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    1 Answer

    Rear brakes not working proper. I have never liked the brakes on my 2500 chevy pickup. I bought the truck second hand. I have since replaced the front pads twice. The front pads were gone in 18,000...


    e-brake pedal should go farther- is either out of adjustment or cable frozen- secondly sounds like only front brakes receiving enough pressure to "activate" properly- bleed all four brakes starting rear pass,then rear drive ,then front pass, then front drive- use plenty of fluid- bleed till fluid is clean without bubbles- will that long at first- this will insure not bubbles and no moisture- if a pro valve dies,you would have more problems- pedal would be really soft,would have both a brake light and abs warning lights

    May 15, 2011 | 1995 Chevrolet Silverado 2500

    1 Answer

    On right rear of 98 jimmy, when brake pedal applied. fluid is "squirting " out


    check right rear wheel cylinder.the wheel cylinder bleeder screw could be loose or brake line to rear brake hose or brake line broken.the rear wheel cylinder seal is leaking brake fluid.

    Apr 10, 2011 | GMC Jimmy Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    WHEN COMING TO A STOP I GET A PULSING ON THE FRONT BRAKE WITH A NOISE AND A SOFTENING OF THE BRAKE. IT DOESN'T HAPPEN AT HIGH SPEED BRAKING.(SENSOR?) THIS IS A 2000 JIMMY 4+4 187,000 kms BOTH FRONT...


    The pulsing is usually caused by a warped rotor. Rotors warp from quick stops and rapid braking techniques. It could also possibly be a weakening Master cylinder or a leaky diaphragm in the brake boost, but this last would be accompanied by a hissing sound when you hit the brakes. To check the rotors, block the rear wheels and raise the front until the wheels are off the ground. Spin the wheels individually by hand slowly - they should roll smoothly. If they do , have a helper apply very light pressure to the brake pedal with the engine running and again spin the wheel. With the wheel spinning, have the helper apply increasingly more pressure to the brake pedal until it stops the wheel from turning. Now have them back off the pedal slightly so you can spin the wheel again and spin, looking for uneven rolling. Check both front wheels to show which rotor is warped. If either is warped, you'll need to have the rotors resurfaced ( turned) and replace the pads both sides.
    If they turn smoothly through all of the tests, apply solid pressure to the brake pedal until you can't push it any farther and hold that pressure. Watch the pedal for sinking. If it sinks, then you either have air in the system or a bad Master cylinder. Bleed the brakes first before you replace the master and do the pressure test again. If you don't find anything at this point, start the engine and do the brake pressure test again. If the pedal sinks, then you may have a vacuum leak in the booster and will need to do a vacuum test on the booster to make sure, since that job is usually hard to do and may be costly, depending on the style of booster you have.
    Hope this helps!!

    Dec 10, 2010 | 2000 GMC Jimmy

    1 Answer

    Sharp squeaking from rt rear wheel. Might be a bearing but it stops if i apply light brake pressure


    your rear brakes need servicing!!Those sqeaking noises are from metal pins within the brake pads. They touch the rotor surface when the pads are worn. Usually when brakes are applied they tend to silence the squeal. Inspect the rear brakes for pad thickness. Hopefully this helpd!!

    Aug 14, 2010 | 2004 Toyota RAV4

    2 Answers

    Rear brakes over heating


    u have a defective ABS hydraulic control valve, this is an active control system and it can apply pressure regardless of pedal input from the driver, the problem is a tiny hydraulic pressure valve is leaking and applying that brake piston.

    Jul 15, 2010 | 1999 Chevrolet Blazer

    1 Answer

    How do you remove the third brake light assembly


    You'll have to gently apply some prying pressure to the housing as you turn the screws, it sounds like they've stripped the part they go in...

    Aug 13, 2009 | 1997 GMC Jimmy

    1 Answer

    Rear brakes not completely disengaging


    your inside pad wore out first do to a bad caliper or frozen slide or brake hose.remove brake hose off the caliper and see if you can turn the wheel.if you can replace hose and bleed caliper.if wheel still doesn't move buy a loaded caliper,this will come also with new slides!and then bleed

    Jan 25, 2009 | 1994 GMC Jimmy

    2 Answers

    Rear brakes wont apply consistantly


    1- brake system low on fluid,
    2- improperly bled (air in lines).
    3- Master cylinder (applies equal pressure to all 4 cylinders) is bad.

    Jan 08, 2009 | 1992 Chevrolet S-10

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