Question about 1996 Dodge Caravan

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Where is ignition module located and how do i test it

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Under the hood and switch it with another one, Tim

Posted on May 22, 2011

  • toddthebuild May 22, 2011

    specifically under the hood, where is the ignition module located

  • Tim Whalen May 22, 2011

    The ignition module itself may be located inside the distributor, on the distributor housing, or in the engine compartment. this is what you are looking for:

    http://www.racepages.com/parts/ignition_...

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Ignition module


It is mounted in the rear, here is a picture of the part. Autozone can test your Ignition Modules be test yours
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Instructions1 Use a wiring diagram for the year model of your vehicle. Locate the terminals running into and out of the ignition module. Placement of the module varies from model to model so check the appropiate service manual of your vehicle for the exact location.
2 Turn the ignition on and use your DVOM to check for voltage to the ignition module and the positive terminal of the ignition coil. Place the negative lead of your DVOM to a solid ground and use the positive lead to probe the wires running to the ignition module and to the ignition coil.
3 If your DVOM shows that voltage is present at both locations, remove the DVOM leads and set the meter aside. Connect the ground lead from the 12-volt test light to the negative terminal on the ignition coil. Have your partner crank the engine over several times. Your test light should flicker on and off. If so, your module is working properly and no further testing is necessary.
4 If your test light does not flicker on and off, visually inspect the wires running into and out of the ignition module. Look for burn marks, melted wire insulation and breaks in the wires. Use your wire splicing tool to remove the bad area in the wire and use your wire connectors and splicing tool to repair the faulty wires.
5 Use your DVOM to check for an open circuit condition in the primary coil winding. Touch the negative probe to the negative terminal on the ignition coil, touch the positive lead to the positive terminal. Set the meter to read ohms. If the reading shows infinite ohms, your ignition module is faulty and should be replaced. Follow the service manual instructions for replacing your ignition coil.
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1 Answer

1979 chevy van not getting spark.was running fine day before.turns over fine,getting fuel.could it be the module


First thing is what condition are the distributor cap, ignition rotor, and spark plug wires in?

There is the possibility that the ignition coil located in the top of the distributor cap is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is even getting to the "Bat" or "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position. Then check the secondary resistance to the ignition coil.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil. A faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

Let me know if you require any further assistance.


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It would seem like a problem with the ECU or the fuel pump, but the common link between those two systems is the ignition module that is located on the distributor under the distributor cap, and that module is actually responsible for the fuel pump signal to run the fuel pump, the dwell signal to cause the ignition coil to fire, and also the signal that the ECU uses to time and fire the injectors, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto parts stores.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

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Cranks over but wont start. Problem happens mostly when it has rained, but lately on a dry morning as well. has had a full tune up and that worked for a few weeks, but now it's back. I know it's gotta be...


That sounds like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

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