Question about 1988 Chevrolet K2500

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Removing front brake rotor on a 1989 chevolet k2500 4wd pickup

I am trying to remove the rotor and replace brake parts

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  • Anonymous Jan 03, 2009

    i broke three lugnuts what now only two holding tire on?

    96 toy cmry

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5 Suggested Answers

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: 1989 4X4 SUBURBAN FRONT ROTORS

throw stupid autolok hubs away they will strand or kill u replace with real hubs ya get out and lock MANUALLY...auto loks are for housewives in shopping center parking lots. warn makes good CHEAP lokkerz that all the big kids use out in the dirt and mud...

Posted on Feb 26, 2009

  • 333 Answers

SOURCE: front brake rotor removal

Your rotors have an integrated hub with serviceable bearing.

Remove the six bolts around the center of the hub and pry off the grease cover.

behind it you will find a locking wheel with two philips screws holding it in position. Remove the screws and unscrew the locking wheel.

Behind is a large axle locknut that requires a special tool to remove. It has two small holes to grip with. Unscrew it and you will be able to remove the outer bearing, then slide the rotor off the spindle/axle.

From there you can unbolt the rotor disc from the hub backside, or replace the whole unit. Replacing the whole unit will require installing new bearings/races, however.

Either method will require repacking the bearings and loading the bearings with the special locknut tool.

Posted on Sep 10, 2009

dttech
  • 4803 Answers

SOURCE: 1994 GMC pickup front brakes are sticking.

By "sticking" I am assuming that you mean that the brakes are staying applied (calipers are not releasing)and burning the brake pads and rotors up.

The most common cause of this is brake hoses.

The hoses that connect your calipers to the steel brake lines have an inner lining and a reinforced outer "shell". sometimes the inner lining tears loose from the outer shell inside the hose. (It cannot be seen by "looking" at the hose.) The inner lining then starts to act similar to a "heart valve" where it allows fluid to be pushed down into the caliper, then collapses inside the hose, blocking the fluid from returning to the master cylinder when the pedal is released. This can happen just because of the age of the hose, but is more commonly caused by someone allowing the caliper to hang by the hose while replacing the brake pads without using anything to support the weight of the caliper.

To diagnose this condition, raise and support the vehicle and remove the wheels. Make sure that the transmission is in "Park" (Automatic Transmission) or "Neutral" (Manual Transmission) and apply the parking brake. Then start the engine and apply the service brake. (Press HARD on the pedal) Shut the engine off, release the service brake and open the bleeder screws on the calipers. If brake fluid squirts out of the bleeder screw under pressure, then the hoses are the cause of the calipers not releasing.

Posted on Oct 17, 2009

Testimonial: "I don't think I would have ever considered the brake lines. I've never seen one go bad. Your help is greatly appreciated!"

  • 26 Answers

SOURCE: 95 Suburban K2500 front brake rotor replacement

spray them with penatrant and smack the inside between the studs with a hammer they will brake loose

Posted on Nov 03, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: front brake pads & rotors on 2003 buick park avenue

When you remove the clipers you have to get very agressive with them to pry them loose. When installing the new pads, you first must compress the hydraulic cylinder that compresses the brakes when you step on the pedal by using a C clamp to squeeze the round-shaped cylinder back as far as it will go. You may experience some overflow from your brake master cylinder (refill container on the top aft of your enginee compartment) because you are removing volume from the system by compressing the cylinder. Replace the pads, then when you rassemble it will easilly fit over the rotors. Otherwise it will not go back together. Also, watch out when reinstalling the pins (the ones that hold the calipers on). They can be cross-threaded easily and you don't want that to happen. You'll know you have them cross-threaded if you have to tighten them too hard. STOP! and back them out and look carefully at the angle of the pins as you thread them in. They should not be too hard to turn. It is also a good idea to lubricate the caliper pins with grease made especially for this purpose (check with your parts store). DO NOT get grease on the surface of the pads or rotors. Brake parts cleaner spray is handy to have to clean eveything after it is assembled together. Tighten all bolts and pins A LOT! They can come out if you don't tighten them pretty well. Hope this helps.

Posted on Mar 20, 2009

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You will need a large spindle nut to remove the axles.

DISASSEMBLY:
Once you have access to the parking brakes inside the rotor hat:
1. Lock out the parking brake w/a pair of Vise grips (on the parking brake cable under the cab)
2. Disengage teh park brake cable from behind the rotor assembly to allow easier disassembly of the parking brake shoes.
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if your rotors are what they call split rotor just remove the brake caliper there are t pins or bolts as some people call them take a screwdriver and insert it between the brake shoe and the rotor pull toward you and the brakes will retract (front only)
lift off the caliper with the brakeshoes.. the rotor should be able to be tapped off altho if it is rusty it may take a couple of good hits /// same for a full rotor execpt you have to take the bult off the front of the spindle this type has bearings & seal in the rotor
they should be replaced when changing this type
put on new brakes and your ready to go

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