Question about 1988 Chevrolet K2500
I am trying to remove the rotor and replace brake parts
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1989 4X4 SUBURBAN FRONT ROTORS
throw stupid autolok hubs away they will strand or kill u replace with real hubs ya get out and lock MANUALLY...auto loks are for housewives in shopping center parking lots. warn makes good CHEAP lokkerz that all the big kids use out in the dirt and mud...
Posted on Feb 26, 2009
SOURCE: front brake rotor removal
Your rotors have an integrated hub with serviceable bearing.
Remove the six bolts around the center of the hub and pry off the grease cover.
behind it you will find a locking wheel with two philips screws holding it in position. Remove the screws and unscrew the locking wheel.
Behind is a large axle locknut that requires a special tool to remove. It has two small holes to grip with. Unscrew it and you will be able to remove the outer bearing, then slide the rotor off the spindle/axle.
From there you can unbolt the rotor disc from the hub backside, or replace the whole unit. Replacing the whole unit will require installing new bearings/races, however.
Either method will require repacking the bearings and loading the bearings with the special locknut tool.
Posted on Sep 10, 2009
By "sticking" I am assuming that you mean that the brakes are staying applied (calipers are not releasing)and burning the brake pads and rotors up.
The most common cause of this is brake hoses.
The hoses that connect your calipers to the steel brake lines have an inner lining and a reinforced outer "shell". sometimes the inner lining tears loose from the outer shell inside the hose. (It cannot be seen by "looking" at the hose.) The inner lining then starts to act similar to a "heart valve" where it allows fluid to be pushed down into the caliper, then collapses inside the hose, blocking the fluid from returning to the master cylinder when the pedal is released. This can happen just because of the age of the hose, but is more commonly caused by someone allowing the caliper to hang by the hose while replacing the brake pads without using anything to support the weight of the caliper.
To diagnose this condition, raise and support the vehicle and remove the wheels. Make sure that the transmission is in "Park" (Automatic Transmission) or "Neutral" (Manual Transmission) and apply the parking brake. Then start the engine and apply the service brake. (Press HARD on the pedal) Shut the engine off, release the service brake and open the bleeder screws on the calipers. If brake fluid squirts out of the bleeder screw under pressure, then the hoses are the cause of the calipers not releasing.
Posted on Oct 17, 2009
Testimonial: "I don't think I would have ever considered the brake lines. I've never seen one go bad. Your help is greatly appreciated!"
When you remove the clipers you have to get very agressive with them to pry them loose. When installing the new pads, you first must compress the hydraulic cylinder that compresses the brakes when you step on the pedal by using a C clamp to squeeze the round-shaped cylinder back as far as it will go. You may experience some overflow from your brake master cylinder (refill container on the top aft of your enginee compartment) because you are removing volume from the system by compressing the cylinder. Replace the pads, then when you rassemble it will easilly fit over the rotors. Otherwise it will not go back together. Also, watch out when reinstalling the pins (the ones that hold the calipers on). They can be cross-threaded easily and you don't want that to happen. You'll know you have them cross-threaded if you have to tighten them too hard. STOP! and back them out and look carefully at the angle of the pins as you thread them in. They should not be too hard to turn. It is also a good idea to lubricate the caliper pins with grease made especially for this purpose (check with your parts store). DO NOT get grease on the surface of the pads or rotors. Brake parts cleaner spray is handy to have to clean eveything after it is assembled together. Tighten all bolts and pins A LOT! They can come out if you don't tighten them pretty well. Hope this helps.
Posted on Mar 20, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Jul 10, 2016 | 1989 GMC Suburban
May 10, 2014 | 2007 Saturn Aura XR Sedan
Aug 03, 2017 | 1989 Toyota Pickup SR5
Sep 07, 2010 | 2001 Dodge Ram 3500 Truck
May 15, 2010 | 2005 Chevrolet Colorado
Mar 05, 2010 | 1989 Ford F 150
Oct 20, 2009 | 1989 Mercedes-Benz 190
Oct 13, 2009 | 1988 Dodge Ram 50
Jul 03, 2008 | 1989 Chevrolet K1500
Mar 02, 2013 | 1988 Chevrolet K2500
468 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: