Question about 1988 Chevrolet K2500

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Removing front brake rotor on a 1989 chevolet k2500 4wd pickup

I am trying to remove the rotor and replace brake parts

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  • Anonymous Jan 03, 2009

    i broke three lugnuts what now only two holding tire on?

    96 toy cmry

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6 Suggested Answers

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: 1989 4X4 SUBURBAN FRONT ROTORS

throw stupid autolok hubs away they will strand or kill u replace with real hubs ya get out and lock MANUALLY...auto loks are for housewives in shopping center parking lots. warn makes good CHEAP lokkerz that all the big kids use out in the dirt and mud...

Posted on Feb 26, 2009

  • 333 Answers

SOURCE: front brake rotor removal

Your rotors have an integrated hub with serviceable bearing.

Remove the six bolts around the center of the hub and pry off the grease cover.

behind it you will find a locking wheel with two philips screws holding it in position. Remove the screws and unscrew the locking wheel.

Behind is a large axle locknut that requires a special tool to remove. It has two small holes to grip with. Unscrew it and you will be able to remove the outer bearing, then slide the rotor off the spindle/axle.

From there you can unbolt the rotor disc from the hub backside, or replace the whole unit. Replacing the whole unit will require installing new bearings/races, however.

Either method will require repacking the bearings and loading the bearings with the special locknut tool.

Posted on Sep 10, 2009

dttech
  • 4803 Answers

SOURCE: 1994 GMC pickup front brakes are sticking.

By "sticking" I am assuming that you mean that the brakes are staying applied (calipers are not releasing)and burning the brake pads and rotors up.

The most common cause of this is brake hoses.

The hoses that connect your calipers to the steel brake lines have an inner lining and a reinforced outer "shell". sometimes the inner lining tears loose from the outer shell inside the hose. (It cannot be seen by "looking" at the hose.) The inner lining then starts to act similar to a "heart valve" where it allows fluid to be pushed down into the caliper, then collapses inside the hose, blocking the fluid from returning to the master cylinder when the pedal is released. This can happen just because of the age of the hose, but is more commonly caused by someone allowing the caliper to hang by the hose while replacing the brake pads without using anything to support the weight of the caliper.

To diagnose this condition, raise and support the vehicle and remove the wheels. Make sure that the transmission is in "Park" (Automatic Transmission) or "Neutral" (Manual Transmission) and apply the parking brake. Then start the engine and apply the service brake. (Press HARD on the pedal) Shut the engine off, release the service brake and open the bleeder screws on the calipers. If brake fluid squirts out of the bleeder screw under pressure, then the hoses are the cause of the calipers not releasing.

Posted on Oct 17, 2009

Testimonial: "I don't think I would have ever considered the brake lines. I've never seen one go bad. Your help is greatly appreciated!"

  • 26 Answers

SOURCE: 95 Suburban K2500 front brake rotor replacement

spray them with penatrant and smack the inside between the studs with a hammer they will brake loose

Posted on Nov 03, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: front brake pads & rotors on 2003 buick park avenue

When you remove the clipers you have to get very agressive with them to pry them loose. When installing the new pads, you first must compress the hydraulic cylinder that compresses the brakes when you step on the pedal by using a C clamp to squeeze the round-shaped cylinder back as far as it will go. You may experience some overflow from your brake master cylinder (refill container on the top aft of your enginee compartment) because you are removing volume from the system by compressing the cylinder. Replace the pads, then when you rassemble it will easilly fit over the rotors. Otherwise it will not go back together. Also, watch out when reinstalling the pins (the ones that hold the calipers on). They can be cross-threaded easily and you don't want that to happen. You'll know you have them cross-threaded if you have to tighten them too hard. STOP! and back them out and look carefully at the angle of the pins as you thread them in. They should not be too hard to turn. It is also a good idea to lubricate the caliper pins with grease made especially for this purpose (check with your parts store). DO NOT get grease on the surface of the pads or rotors. Brake parts cleaner spray is handy to have to clean eveything after it is assembled together. Tighten all bolts and pins A LOT! They can come out if you don't tighten them pretty well. Hope this helps.

Posted on Mar 20, 2009

  • 323 Answers

SOURCE: how to remove and replace front brake rotors chev colorado

Time to buy yourself a good shop manual. You say it is both a 2006 and a 2008.

Posted on May 12, 2009

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Chances are real good your rotors will have to be replaced along with new pads, but if you catch it early enough you might be able to have them machined, although nowadays that is hardly easy to get done and the savings usually is not as significant as it once was.

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Those are special calipers. The piston cannot be just compressed back into the caliper - it needs to be turned as it is compressed or you can ruin the caliper.There is a kit you can rent from AutoZone or many independent auto parts stores that will perform both functions at the same time.
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The reason you're getting mixed info from parts stores is because it comes both ways.
Look at the following to determine which one you have, 4 wheel disc brakes (floating front rotors) or rear drum brake model (except 4 wheel disc brakes):
Brake Disc (Rotor) REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Except F-Super Duty with 4-Wheel Disc Brakes Fig. 1: Secure the caliper so there is no tension on the brake hose 88289p22.jpg
  1. Jack up the front of the truck and support it with jackstands. Remove the front wheel.
  2. Remove the caliper assembly and support it on the frame with a piece of wire (or something equally secure) without disconnecting the brake fluid hose.
  3. Remove the hub and rotor assembly.
  4. Install the rotor in the reverse order of removal, and adjust the wheel bearing as outlined in Section 1.
F-Super Duty with 4-Wheel Disc Brakes The hub and rotor are individual pieces, allowing the rotor to be replaced independently. The front and rear rotors are the same and are attached with 10 bolts and washers. The bolts are tightened a little at a time, in a crisscross fashion, to an ultimate torque of 74–89 ft. lbs. (100–121 Nm). prev.gif next.gif

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How do I get the front brake pads off and replace the rotors


Jack the vehicle up, place a jack stand under a part of the frame that is solid (Make sure it's a sold part of the frame and not the oil pan or any soft metal).

Remove the wheel.

Remove the brake caliper (2 bolts in the back of it, sometimes they are allen bolts, sometimes they are torx)

Wiggle the caliper (or use a rubber mallet) to get the caliper off of the rotor.

Pull the rotor off, if its stuck, nothing is holding it now except for rust, use a mallet and beat of it all around from the front and back, it will eventually knock loose then just pull off.

Pull the brake pads off of the caliper, the back one usually just snaps straight into the piston. The outside one slides off (usually has two pieces of metal acting as a spring, you'll see when u get to that point)

Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap, and have someone watch the level as you compress the piston of the caliper back in using a C-clamp. If the level gets too high, stop, and soak some out with paper towels (have a coffee can or something similar handy to place the paper towels in)

Once the piston is compressed, put the new pads on.. make sure to visualize how the caliper came off, and be sure to replace the brake pads so that their curve matches the radius of the rotor.

Put the new rotor on, the slide the caliper with installed brake pads onto the rotor. You might have to mess with it a little bit to get it right, sometimes there's metal there that little hooks on the brake pads sit on (coming from the frame behind the wheel bearing assembly)

Replace the bolts hand tight, then you a rubber mallet to tap the wrench in order to make them nice and very very snug

Hint: you should use brake parts cleaner and paper towels on the new rotor (Both sides) because it comes with a coat of oil on it to keep it from corroding during shipping and storage)
Also wipe any oily fingerprints from the pads and rotor with brakes parts cleaner if you got any on them before reinstalling. The best thing to do is try not to get grease on the pads at all, if you do clean them with brake parts cleaner)

replace the wheel, jack the vehicle back up and remove the jack stand, then let the car down. Start the car and hit the brakes a few times. Check the brake fluid reservoir and fill to the max line again if needed. Replace the cap.

Done... Good luck

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The brake rotor can be removed without separating the caliper from the mounting bracket.
  1. Release the parking brake.
  2. Remove 2/3 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder.
  3. Raise and support the vehicle.
  4. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
  5. Remove the caliper and mounting bracket as an assembly.
  6. Hang the caliper and mounting bracket assembly from the suspension using mechanics wire.
  7. Remove the rotor. Slowly turn the rotor while pulling the rotor away from the axle. (15 series).
  8. Remove the rotor. Slowly turn the rotor while pulling the rotor away from the axle. (25 series).
    NOTE If the rotor is stuck to the hub, try using a slide hammer to free it.

To install:
WARNING Whenever the brake rotor has been separated from the hub/axle flange, any rust or contaminants should be cleaned from the hub/axle flange and the brake rotor mating surfaces. Failure to do this may result in excessive assembled lateral run-out (LRO) of the brake rotor, which could lead to brake pulsation.

  1. Thoroughly clean any rust or corrosion from the mating surface of the hub/axle flange.
  2. Thoroughly clean any rust or corrosion from the mating surface and mounting surface of the brake rotor.
  3. Inspect the mating surfaces of the hub/axle flange and the rotor to ensure that there are no foreign particles or debris remaining.
  4. Install the rotor. Slowly turn the rotor while pushing the rotor towards the axle. (15 series).
  5. Install the rotor. Slowly turn the rotor while pushing the rotor towards the axle. (25 series).
  6. Install the caliper and the mounting bracket as an assembly.
  7. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
  8. Lower the vehicle.

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You need to back off the hidden emergency brake shoes that contact the interior part of the rotor. Remove the rubber plug on the inside and rear part of the hub and use a screwdriver to back off the star wheel adjuster. Unless you do this, you'll never get the rotors off.
Hint: the secondary drum type emergency/parking brake shoes may need replacement

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