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The wire from my alternator to the solenoid melted and i don't know where it goes back to the solenoid

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On the same lug as the battery cable. Other side should be starter cable only.

Posted on May 22, 2011


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Changed motor car wont charge found 4 broken wires in harness 2 in ground repared them still wont charge was told pcm needs to be replaced and programmed. what about pigtail on alternator being bad

Yes, repair the alternator wire. The pcm does not control alternator output, it only uses and monitors it. I don't know if it is a problem, but maybe from the bad wiring you found may have affected it. Don't know who told you to replace the pcm, but think I'd get a second...well, a third opinion.
Sorry I can't help you more, good luck.

Nov 06, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Won't start

How about corroded battery cables (internal)

Fusible Link wiring corroded & open circuit,does
everything electrical work except the starting circuit?

Turn key & have power to starter solenoid ?
Neutral Switch !
Ignition Switch !

Tough to guess without wiring diagrams,
to see where to start testing

Can't fix what you don't know you have

Oct 02, 2012 | 1990 Ford F150

1 Answer

TEE fiting that join hoses on smog pump keeps melting every few miles, Already have changed smog pump with new one from dealer, and problem came right back. I was told then that problem was electrical...

With melting parts that could be an issue with the diverter valve, but the electrical issue adds a new complication to the deal. I'll have to admit, my experience with SMOG systems is limited. I don't know exactly how that shop did your electrical test, but unless they did a live test where they measured how much current draw you had during operation of the pump, I don't know how they could draw any conclusions as to if the pump is good or bad. The electrical solenoid as I understand it, is not part of the pump and is there to divert the air to the proper location and then closing during deceleration to prevent backfire. I would think since you are having issues with the fuse and melting hoses, that your diverter valve/solenoid is the issue. If none of this information is useful to you, I certainly wouldn't hold it against you to ask for a refund for this service and seek help from another member. If the information is useful, I am glad, and ask that you don't forget to rate.

Nov 25, 2011 | Chevrolet Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Coud p0753 durango 1998

DTC P0753 is for the 3-4 shift solenoid in the trans.
This is an electrical code, it will set when the voltage seen by the engine controller on the solenoid's control circuit is incorrect. The solenoid pack gets a constant 12v from the trans relay and is controlled by the engine controller by switching ground.

Since you don't have a code for the TCC solenoid that shares the same relay feed and you don't have a trans relay code set we know the problem is isolated to the solenoid or it's control wire. It could be a short, broken wire, or corrosion in the control wire between the trans and engine controller, but this is almost always the solenoid itself.

This code is not not saying replace parts. They say check it out on yours a code 753 points to a 3-4 shift solenoid relay problem or wiring problem. Other thing to check could be the speed sensor module that screws into the side of the transfer case. back feeding bad info to ECM.


Hope helps.

Sep 22, 2011 | Dodge Durango Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My 1997 Chevy Lumina will not turn on. I thought it was the starter since it started having difficulties turning on. The security light on the dash is permanently on. So i replaced the starter and tested...


Sep 06, 2011 | 1997 Chevrolet Lumina

2 Answers

Changed spark plugs AND HAD TO TAKE OFF THE ALTERNATOR TO GET TO BACK set of plugs. when replacing alternator hot wire touched the alternator casing and it arced, now car wont start

You melted a fusible link. These are on the starter solenoid, attached to the big terminal that has the battery cable on it. There should be maybe two or three of them. You can recognize them by what look like plastic barrels between the meltable portion and the hard wire. Grab each one individually and pull. If it stretches, it's melted. Sometimes there is enough left to put a **** splice in line, or maybe have to replace the whole thing. I think you can get these at your auto parts store. Take the barrel portion with you as the amperage rating should be molded into this part.

Aug 17, 2011 | 1991 Chevrolet Corsica

1 Answer

The red lead wire on the back of the alternator has pulled away from somewhere and I need to know where it attaches to. This is on a 1997 Chevy Cavalier 2.4 engine. When I took the bolt off of the red lead...

That heavy gauge red wire (called a B+ wire) runs from the positive side of the battery directly to the back of the alternator. On yours, if it goes to the starter, the starter main battery terminal would essentially do the same thing. (both connections are always hot and always come directly from the battery). If you meant that it became disconnected when you said "pulled away", you need to find the wire it disconnected from and re-connect it. If it just came out of a loop that was securing it, you don't necessarily need to find the loop but can secure it with a tie wrap, making sure it stays away from the manifold.
You could actually make a new wire and connect it between the battery (+) terminal and the alternator, using the same gauge wire, but I'd be concerned that the loose end coming from the starter could possibly touch something and cause a direct short. At the least, you should find the loose end and cap it off. The battery cannot charge with the wire disconnected.
Anything I've just written that you don't understand, just ask and I'll clarify it for you.

Jun 22, 2011 | 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

I have a 98 saturn sw. Replaced the alternator, there's a wire, thick looks like it goes to the starter? Didn't take this wire off, don't know where it goes. possibly called the B wire. Alternator reading...

There is a heavy red wire that connects to the only terminal on the back of the alternator. The starter should have a smaller purple wire connected to the starter solenoid. A red (positive) battery cable connects to the top terminal of the starter solenoid. There also may be smaller red wires connected to the solenoid at the same connection where the heavy red battery cable connects. Hope this helps

Sep 01, 2010 | 1998 Saturn SL

1 Answer

#14 fuse in a 1991 honda civic si keeps blowing......labeled alternator/solenoid. Can someone please tell me what feeds this fuse to make it keep blowing.

That leaves only two probablities: 1) a possible short in the wiring to the alternator, or 2) the alternator itself, particularly the voltage regulator inside it. Voltage regulators can be changed, but virtually nobody does that. Since you have to take the alternator off to do it, most people simply replace the alternator as a unit.
I would take a good look at the wiring to see if there are any worn-bare places. I doubt that that's the problem, but it could be. There is also a fusible link (flat single piece of metal which melts under too high a charge) in SOME models of your car in the wire that goes from the starter solenoid to the alternator (I doubt that your car has one since it probably would have blown rather than the fuse you indicated).
Next (you won't be delighted by this) change the alternator. It might look difficult, but if you take your time and you have or can borrow the appropriate wrenches, you can do it.
Here's how:
Detach the negative cable from the battery.
Mark and detach all of the connectors from the alternator (do not trust your memory).
Test the tension of the drive belt (you’ll have to get it roughly back to that tension when you change the alternator)
Loosen the alternator adjusting bolt (the one that goes through the oblong hole so you can tighten the alternator against the belt).
Loosen the pivot bolt (the only other bolt holding the alternator in place).
Detach the drive belt (push the alternator away from it, but do not take the belt off, unless you have a diagram indicating how it goes on).
Remove the adjusting bolt and the pivot bolt, then the alternator should be free.
Take the alternator with you when you go to get a replacement (some place like Autozone would be okay. Ask for a rebuilt alternator (they are cheaper and usually reliable).
Make sure the rebuilt alternator has the same connections as the old one. Look at it carefully.
Alternators usually don’t come with the pulley. Have them put your old pulley on the alternator you are buying.
Take it home, put it in, tension the belt to approximately where it was. Start the car.
I hope that this helps you.

Nov 24, 2009 | 1991 Honda Civic

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