After reading your answer i found that my fan wasn't even working, unless i had the heater on. i asked a dealer and he said it could be the water pump, but my over flow box has boiling hot water in it. so i was thinking if the pump wasn't working then the water in the over flow box should be cold right. dose the water pump control the fan. i thought there was i temp thing that turned the fan on depending on the temp of the car. the dealer want 200 to look at it.
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Re: over heating bug guy
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if the pump is not working or the thermostat is stuck closed, the water will not circulate, engine would be very hot but the radiator and/or the coolant reservoir would be comparatively cold;
the water pump is mechanically driven by the belt and has no electrical connection therefore it could not switch anything on or off;
in your vehicle, the fan is controlled by two switches; a thermal switch on the radiator and either the heater or the A/C switch. Either must be engaged for the fan to work on reaching a certain temperature.
in my country being in Asia, we normally remove completely the thermostat (not applicable in cold weather) and hard wire the fan to be always on when the engine is running.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
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Well it could be any one of a few things ! There are two blower motor relays , two fuse's an the blower motor resistor, but wouldn't think that is the problem unless you have high speed blower operation ! But then again don't know if we are even talking about the same fan ? heater fan not cooling fan ?
If fan still runs when all your heater control knobs and buttons are off, it is likely a bad heater fan switch. Unless you have something like a body control module found on newer cars that has some control over interior functions. If not, try a new heater fan switch. Good luck.
there are different things that can cause this.make sure the coolant level is full in the rad and overflow bottle.make sure the cooling fan is working properly,check for a bad water pump(noisy or leaking),replace the thermostat as it could be sticking closed,you could have a bad head gasket that can be checked with a block check that checks for combustion chamber gasses in the coolant.i`ve even seen a heater core plugging up that has caused an over heat because it wasn`t allowing coolant to flow through out the ssystem acting like a plug.these are known for the cooling fans at the radiator siezing and not working check that first then if its been a while change the thermostat,then go from there with the above suggestions.
Hi,i had similar problem,the fan wasn't working.When i turned heater on hot it released the heat from the engine & temperature went back down.Turned out my fan relay fuse had blown.$5 fixed the problem.Hope this helps.
We needed our heater core replaced and got estimates from 600 to 1500 dollars from the dealerships. you will basically have to tear the entire dash apart and then some. we found a guy to do it but when he finished he said if it happens again to find someone else. My husband wanted to tackle it but I wasn't willing to put up with the throwing of tools and hours of btchn. Unless you have the patience of a saint you'll want to take this one in.
In my 2001 Town and Country without automatic temperature control, my heater/AC blower suddenly worked only when set on high. Usually, that problem is your blower resistor pack.
I had to search for the one in my van since the parts man wasn’t sure where it was except that he thought it was in the dash somewhere. (In some other vans it was under the hood.) My Haynes manual didn’t have anything on it except a picture showing it with the blower. I found it directly behind the glove compartment. Very easy to get to once you know where it is.
The glove box can be lowered all the way out of the way just by pulling in the sides so the rubber stoppers come out toward you. The sides bend easily to allow that.
The glove box being out reveals the resistor in the heating duct right in front of you. Just remove the two sets of wires and two bolts (10mm socket, I think) and the resistor pack slides right out. Then bolt in the new one an plug the wires back in (they only fit in one way). Fold the glove box back up and press the stops in to get them back in place and you are done.
The resistor pack only cost $12 and change at my dealer. It is part number 1-04885583AB which was a replacement for the same number with AA at the end, so I’m guessing they had a lot of trouble with the AAs and so made a better AB.
Last Winter my heater blower fan worked only on High. I changed the front heater/AC blower resistor pack and was surprised at how easy it is, but I had to figure it out for myself since my Dealer's parts guy was no help as to where the part lived and my Haynes manual was just plain wrong. This was on a 2001 T+C. I'd be very surprised if the 2001 Caravan was any different. Don't know what other year vans would be the same. I do know some earlier generations had this resistor under the hood and Haynes had is with the blower sort of behind the instrument cluster.
Unless chrysler decided to move it, the blend door and vacuum motor (likely what's bad) is up high on the center of the heater box. If you can see it you are lucky, if you can touch it, even luckier! Every one I've ever worked on was like this and required taking apart nearly entire dash to get to (and they wonder why these guys are all going out of business) Unless you have lots of time and patience, it's a shop job... Sorry....