Question about 1995 Lincoln Town Car

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1995 Lincoln Town Car (Cartier) has no heat coming from heater.

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  • maven0613 May 23, 2011

    Well, it gets a little more complicated. There is no a/c or heat so I'm leaning toward blend door actuator now.

  • maven0613 May 23, 2011

    Well it gets more complicated. There is no cold from the a/c or heat. So, blend door actuator?

  • maven0613 Aug 24, 2011

    Back again....Thermostat replaced, heater core flushed. Blend door actuator not working but if I rig it so the blend door is wide open I get full A/C. It is my understanding that I should be able to rig it closed and get full heat but only cool air comes out even on manual override. There is no heater control valve in this year and model in the heater core intake hose. What am I missing?

  • maven0613 Sep 04, 2011

    Blend door actuator replaced. Vacuum lines checked. All works normally now but still no defrost. Now what am I missing?

  • maven0613 Sep 04, 2011

    CORRECTION: Blend door actuator replaced. Vacuum lines checked. All works normally now but still no defrost and heat comes out of a/c vents. Now what am I missing?

  • maven0613 Sep 05, 2011

    Blend door actuator replaced. Vacuum lines checked. All works normally now but still no defrost and heat comes out of a/c vents. Now what am I missing?

    The dash is out again so I checked vacuum lines manually and the floor/defrost door, panel door (heater air damper door), and the recirculating air door all respond.

    I have diagnostics and instructions for a Heater Control Cable replacement but there is not one attached to the EATC module nor is there a place that one would go so how does the EATC decide "defrost only" on mannual override when there is no dedicated defrost vacuum line or cable?

    Also, is heat supposed to come out of the panel vents or just the floor and the defrost vents? When it is on "floor" on manual override the heat comes out of the panel vents also even when you select 60 degrees on the temperature selector.

    Thanks so much for replying. It's starting to get cold here (Colorado) and I'm in panic mode as I'm traveling a lot between here and Wyoming and need her fixed so I can work. One more day off - need to find it soon!

    Traci

  • maven0613 Sep 05, 2011

    Thermostat replaced, heater core not clogged, blend door actuator replaced, all vacuum lines checked. No EATC error codes. All EATC connections good. Blend door actuator replaced. Vacuum lines checked. All works normally now but still no defrost and heat comes out of a/c vents.

    The dash is out again so I checked vacuum lines manually and the floor/defrost door, panel door (heater air damper door), and the recirculating air door all respond.

    I have diagnostics and instructions for a Heater Control Cable replacement but there is not one attached to the EATC module nor is there a place that one would go so how does the EATC decide "defrost only" on manual override when there is no dedicated defrost vacuum line or cable?

    Also, is heat supposed to come out of the panel vents or just the floor and the defrost vents? When it is on "floor" on manual override the heat comes out of the panel vents also even when you select 60 degrees on the temperature selector.

    Now I am looking for the interior temperature sensor location as there is some erratic behavior. When the heater gets hot then it suddenly gets lower and when the a/c gets cold then it suddenly gets warmer. It's like the interior air temperature sensor is in the airflow somewhere and is "correcting" the temperature it's calling for.

    Still no air out of defrost ever.

  • maven0613 Sep 13, 2011

    **UPDATE 09/13/2011**
    After blend door actuator replacement the A/C appears to work normally. The heating system still has the following problems:

    THE TWO PRIMARY PROBLEMS ARE LOW HEAT QUALITY AND DEFROST BLOWS ONLY COLD AIR. ALSO LOW VOLUME BLOWER.

    On any setting the heat at max (90 deg) does not heat the interior to more than approx upper 60s. A/C temp setting to actual appears correct but heat temp setting to actual is about 10-15 degrees off. Air is just lukewarm when asking for heat.

    Even at 90 deg setting when switching to defrost it blows cold air only out the windshield vents.

    All air all the time blows out of panel vents and must be manually redirected to floor or defrost by shutting the panel vents. But this may be just how the system operates (?)

    Blower appears very low at all settings particularly defrost. It does go higher at manual (turn wheel) but seems low to me.

    When switching to vent from any heat setting the air appears to be slightly warmer.

    Covering the solar sensor changes nothing regarding defrost but I still don’t know if the solar sensor even has anything to do with the EATC.

    What am I missing now?

  • maven0613 Sep 13, 2011

    **UPDATE 09/13/2011**
    After blend door actuator replacement the A/C appears to work normally. The heating system still has the following problems:

    THE TWO PRIMARY PROBLEMS ARE LOW HEAT QUALITY AND DEFROST BLOWS ONLY COLD AIR. ALSO LOW VOLUME BLOWER.

    On any setting the heat at max (90 deg) does not heat the interior to more than approx upper 60s. A/C temp setting to actual appears correct but heat temp setting to actual is about 10-15 degrees off. Air is just lukewarm when asking for heat.

    Even at 90 deg setting when switching to defrost it blows cold air only out the windshield vents.

    All air all the time blows out of panel vents and must be manually redirected to floor or defrost by shutting the panel vents. But this may be just how the system operates (?)

    Blower appears very low at all settings particularly defrost. It does go higher at manual (turn wheel) but seems low to me.

    When switching to vent from any heat setting the air appears to be slightly warmer.

    Covering the solar sensor changes nothing regarding defrost but I still don’t know if the solar sensor even has anything to do with the EATC.

    What am I missing now?

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Sounds like a bad heater core.not an easy job

Posted on May 21, 2011

  • 3 more comments 
  • maven0613 May 21, 2011

    Thanks. That's what I am trying to avoid. Replaced the stuck thermostat and was hopeful but no luck.
    However, there is no heater control valve located in the heater hose where it appears to be in all the books and diagrams. Could they have bypassed it and would that cause this problem or is it located somewhere else?

  • Jason Conway
    Jason Conway May 21, 2011

    yeah, if someone bypassed it you would have no heat. Im sure someone knows how to jury rig it and bypass it, i dont think its all that difficult. As far as i know you access it from behind the dash(heater core). Im not 100 percent sure on this specific model but i can do some digging and find out for sure if you'd like. Let me know. If it is , taking off the whole dash is usually easier than busting ur knuckles and cramping under the dash.

  • Jason Conway
    Jason Conway May 24, 2011

    have you tried checking the relays? How did this happen, did it all the sudden stop or was this gradual fade in and out?

  • Jason Conway
    Jason Conway May 24, 2011

    what is the temp telling you the outside temp is? Is it close or off by alot? (e.g 70 outside reading 32 in the car). This car has alot of sensors. The blend door actuator does what it say, actuates a door. If you hear aticking while the heat/ ac is on this is your problem. Im thinking you have a sensor issue. The more info the better i can help you

  • maven0613 Aug 28, 2011

    Had full heat this AM. Then not this afternoon. Had full A/C but lost it too. I assume I bound by 60 to 90 degree range even on manual override but it is not consistient.

    No air coming from defroster either even when heat was on floor.

    Found blend door and actuator. Would like to replace or switch to heat only for winter then a/c for summer but not sure how to do this without removing the dash.

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