Question about Chevrolet C1500

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In installing a 1 piece oil ring, does the bevel face up or down? also the bevel is on the out side of the piston.

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  • Chevrolet Master
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The bevel always goes down to scrap the oil off the cylinder wall

Posted on May 20, 2011

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My 2008 chevy avalanche is burning 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles


How many miles on your vehicle ? Do you see any leak spots on the ground from the truck ? Blue exhaust , oil burning , valve guide seals , piston rings , PCV clogged .

Oil Consumption Diagnosis
Checks
Causes
Excessive oil consumption, not due to leaks, is the use of 1 L (1 qt) or more of engine oil within 3 200 kilometers (2,000 miles).
Preliminary
The causes of excessive oil consumption may include the following conditions:
• External oil leaks
Refer to Oil Leak Diagnosis .
• Incorrect oil level or improper reading of the oil level indicator
With the vehicle on a level surface, run the engine for a few minutes, allow adequate drain down time, 2-3 minutes, and measure for the correct engine oil level.
• Improper oil viscosity
Refer to the vehicle owners manual and use the recommended SAE grade and viscosity for the prevailing temperatures.
• Continuous high speed driving and/or severe usage
• Crankcase ventilation system restrictions or malfunctioning components
Refer to Crankcase Ventilation System Inspection/Diagnosis .
• Worn valve guides and/or valve stems
• Worn or improperly installed valve stem oil seals
Refer to Spark Plug Inspection .
• Piston rings broken, worn, or not seated properly
Allow adequate time for the rings to seat.
Replace worn piston rings, as necessary.
Refer to Cylinder Leakage Test .
• Piston and rings improperly installed or not fitted to the cylinder bore
Refer to Lower Engine Noise, Regardless of Engine Speed

Jun 14, 2014 | 2008 Chevrolet Avalanche

3 Answers

2003pontiac grand prix how compress the piston by compressing or by turn in ?


What you need to do is lift the car take out the wheel where crank shaft is,
also know as the harmonic balancer

Jan 20, 2013 | 2003 Pontiac Grand Prix

2 Answers

1995 Nissan Serena is burning oil. Seals, valves, and rings are all new


You need a compression test of the cylinders. Checking the condition of the spark plugs will show a mechanic which cylinders are burning oil.

You may have a bad or wrong installation of the piston rings. The rings often have to be staggered during installation to prevent the ends of the rings from aligning and creating a passage for the compression and oil to flow through.

Some rings are cut with straight edges on their surface and some have a slant or "burr" on the edges requiring the ring to be turned "right side" up enabling the slanted edge to face either up or down according to Specs.

You must install the proper width of ring in the cylinder. The term "10 thousandth" or "20Thousandth" or "30Thousandth" is a sizing which is suppose to be matched to the wear or overbore of the cylinder each piston fits in. If you hone or bore out a cylinder it must be measured and the correct parts fit into each cylinder. At times new pistons may be needed.

The oil stem seals on the valves must be tight. You also have another area, "Valve stem guides" which must be within a tolerance or they need to be refitted with new guides to get tolerance into Specs.

The compression test I mentioned and the sparkplug inspection will help to diagnose the problems. You may have Warranty work due to you from the repair job. Oil is not cheap, and the repair is not complete until the engine is not burning oil.

I hope my solution is helpful.

Jul 04, 2012 | Nissan Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Excessive fuel consumption on vw caravelle 2.5i


Clogged PCV Valve
The main purpose of the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve is to recirculate blow-by gases back from the crankcase area through the engine to consume unburned hydrocarbons. Blow by is a mixture of air, gasoline and combustion gases forced past the rings on the combustion stroke. The PCV system usually has a tube leading from the crankcase to the carburetor or intake manifold. Vacuum within the engine intake manifold pulls blow by gases out of the crankcase into the combustion chamber along with the regular intake of air and fuel.
Worn Piston Ring Grooves
For piston rings to form a good seal, the sides of the ring grooves must be true and flat - not flared or shouldered - and the rings must have the correct side clearance in the grooves. Normally, automotive ring groove side clearance should not exceed .002-.004. As the pistons move up and down, the rings must seat on the sides of the grooves in very much the same way that valves must seat to prevent leakage. New rings in tapered or irregular grooves will not seal properly and, consequently, oil will pass around behind the rings into the combustion chamber. Worn grooves are usually flared or tapered causing increased side clearances which permit more than the normal amount of oil to pass the rings into the combustion chamber. Excessive side clearances also create a pounding effect by the rings on the sides of the piston grooves. This promotes piston groove wear and, if the condition is not corrected, breakage of rings lands may occur.
Cracked or Broken Ring Lands
Cracked or broken ring lands prevent the rings from seating completely on their sides and cause oil pumping by a process similar to that described in #7. In addition to this, they also lead to serious damage to the cylinders as well as complete destruction of the pistons and rings. Cracked or broken ring lands cannot be corrected by any means other than piston replacement and this should be done as soon as there is the slightest indication of a crack.
Worn Valve Stems and Guides
When wear has taken place on valve stems and valve guides, the vacuum in the intake manifold will draw oil and oil vapor between the intake valve stems and guides, into the intake manifold and then into the cylinder where it will be burned. If this condition is not corrected when new piston rings are installed, an engine is likely to use more oil than it did before because the new piston rings will increase the vacuum in the intake manifold. When gum or deposits on the valve stems are removed - a procedure recommended when overhauling an engine - the seal previously formed will be removed and leakage will be more pronounced. This is particularly true on overhead valve engines where loss of oil may occur on the exhaust valves as well as on the intake valves. High oil consumption caused by too much valve guide clearance can frequently be cured by reaming or nerraling the valve stem. In some cases new valves may also be required. Use of a permanently bonded valve stem seal will give added insurance against oil leakage on complete engine overhauls or on valve jobs. Large Oil Leaks Leaking valve cover gaskets, leaking crankshaft front and rear seals.

Apr 24, 2011 | Volkswagen Microbus Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What is the clearance for rod bearings on the crank of a 98 ford f 150 4.6


General Specifications Item Specification
Displacement L (CID) 4.6 (281)
Number of Cylinders 8
Bore and Stroke mm 90.2 x 90.0
Firing Order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
Oil Pressure (HOT @ 1500 rpm) kPa 138-310
Drive Belt Tension a
Cylinder Head and Valve Train
Combustion Chamber Volume cm 52?±.5
Valve Seats Width?€"Intake mm 1.9-2.1
Valve Seats Width?€"Exhaust mm 1.9-2.1
Valve Seats Angle 44.51-45.01 degrees
Valve Seats Runout (T.I.R.) Max mm 0.025
Valve Arrangement (Front-to-Rear) (Left Hand) E-I-E-I-E-I-E-I
(Right Hand)
I-E-I-E-I-E-I-E
Valve Stem to Guide Clearance?€"Intake mm (Inch) 0.020-0.069
(0.00078-0.00272)
Valve Stem to Guide Clearance?€"Exhaust mm (Inch) 0.045-0.095 (0.0018-0.0037)
Valve Head Diameter?€"Intake mm (Inch) 44.5- (1.75)
Valve Head Diameter?€"Exhaust mm (Inch) 34.0 (1.34)
Valve Head Diameter?€"Gauge Diameters mm (Inch) 42.5- and 32.0
(1.67 and 1.26)
Valve Face Runout Limit mm (Inch) 0.05 (0.002)
Valve Face Angle 45.25-45.75 degrees
Valve Stem Diameter (STD)
?€"Intake mm (Inch) 6.995-6.975 (0.275-0.2746)
Valve Stem Diameter (Std)
?€"Exhaust mm (Inch) 6.970-6.949 (0.274-0.2736)
Valve Springs?€"
Compression Pressure N @
Spec. Length?€"Intake 587.14 N @ 28.02 mm
Valve Springs?€"
Compression Pressure N @
Spec. Length?€"Exhaust 587.14 N @
28.02 mm
Valve Springs?€"Free
Length ( Approximate)?€"
Intake mm (Inch) 49.55 (1.951)
Valve Springs?€"Free
Length (Approximate)?€"
Exhaust mm (Inch) 49.55 (1.951)
Valve Springs?€"Installed
Pressure N @ Spec. Length
?€"Intake 244.64 N @ 40.0 mm
Valve Spring?€"Installed
Pressure N @ Spec. Length
?€"Exhaust 244.64 N @ 40.0 mm
Valve Springs?€"Installed
Pressure N @ Spec. Length
?€"Service Limit 10 % Pressure Less @ 28.02 mm
Valve Springs?€"Installed
Pressure N @ Spec. Length
?€"Out of Square Limit 2 degrees
Valve Guide Inner
Diameter mm (Inch) 7.015-7.044 (0.2761-0.2773)
Rocker Arm?€"Ratio 1.75:1
Valve Tappet?€"Diameter
(STD) mm (Inch) 16.000-15.988 (0.66-0.629)
Valve Tappet?€"Clearance
to Bore mm (Inch) 0.018-0.069
(0.00071-0.00272)
Valve Tappet?€"Service
Limit mm (Inch) 0.016 (0.00063)
Valve Tappet?€"Hydraulic
Leakdown Rate b 5-25 seconds
Valve Tappet?€"Collapsed
Valve Tappet Gap?€"
Desired mm (Inch) 0.085-0.45 (0.0033-0.0177)
Camshaft
Lobe Lift?€"Intake
mm (Inch) 6.58939 (0.2594)
Lobe Lift?€"Exhaust
mm (Inch) 6.58939 (0.2594)
Lobe Lift?€"Allowable
Lobe Lift Loss mm (Inch) 0 (0)
Theoretical Valve Lift @
Zero Lash?€"Intake
mm (Inch) 12.0 (0.472)
Theoretical Valve Lift @
Zero Lash?€"Exhaust
mm (Inch) 12.0 (0.472)
End Play mm (Inch) 0.025-0.165
(0.00098-0.0065)
Journal to Bearing
Clearance mm (Inch) 0.025-0.076
(0.00098-0.003
Journal to Bearing
Clearance?€"Service Limit
mm (Inch) 0.021 (0.0048)
Journal Diameter (All)
mm (Inch) 26.962-26.936
(1.061-1.060)
Journal Diameter (All)?€"
Bearing Inside Diameter
(All) mm (Inch) 27.012-26.987
(1.063-1.0625)
Camshaft Runout
mm (Inch) 0.05 (0.002)
Cylinder Bore
Diameter?€"Surface Finish
(RMS) 0.2-0.6 Microns
Diameter?€"Out-of-Round
Limit mm (Inch) 0.015 (0.0006)
Diameter?€"Out-of-Round
Service Limit mm (Inch) 0.020 (0.00079)
Diameter?€"Taper Service
Limit mm (Inch) 0.006 (0.00023)
Piston
Piston?€"Diameter?€"
Coded Red 1 mm (Inch) 90.177-90.197
(3.550-3.551)
Piston?€"Diameter?€"
Coded Blue 2 mm (Inch) 90.190-90.210
(3.5507-3.5515)
Piston?€"Diameter?€"
Coded Yellow 3 mm (Inch) 90.203-90.223
(3.513-3.5521)
Piston-to-Bore-Clearance
mm (Inch) -0.015 + 0.031 (0.0005-0.0012)
Pin Bore Diameter
mm (Inch) 22.0015-22.004
(0.866-0.8663)
Ring Groove Width?€"
Compression (Top)
mm (Inch) 1.520-1.550 (0.06-0.610)
Ring Groove Width?€"
Compression (Bottom)
mm (Inch) 1.520-1.530 (0.060-0.0602)
Ring Groove Width?€"Oil
Ring mm (Inch) 6.996-7.224 (0.275-0.2844)
Piston Pin?€"Length
mm (Inch) 61.93-62.05 (2.44-2.443)
Diameter mm (Inch) 21.994-21.999
(0.866-0.8661)
Pin to Piston Clearance
mm (Inch) 0.005-0.010
(0.0002-0.0004)
Pin to Rod Clearance
mm (Inch) 0.015-0.040
(0.0006-0.00157)
Piston Rings?€"Ring Gap
?€"Compression (Top)
mm (Inch) 1.0 MAX (0.0394)
Piston Rings?€"Ring Gap
?€"Compression (Top)
mm (Inch) 1.0 MAX (0.0394)
Oil Ring?€"Side Clearance
mm (Inch) 1.25 MAX (0.05)
Oil Ring?€"Compression
(Top) mm (Inch) 0.040-0.090
(0.0016-0.0031)
Oil Ring?€"Compression
(Top) mm (Inch) 0.030-0.080
(0.0012-0.00031)
Oil Ring Snug Fit
Oil Ring?€"Service Limit
mm (Inch) 0.015 MAX (0.0006)
Ring Gap?€"Compression
(Top) mm (Inch) 0.23-0.49
(0.01-0.02)
Ring Gap?€"Compression
(Bottom) mm (Inch) 0.23-0.49
(0.01-0.02)
Ring Gap?€"Oil Ring (Steel
Rail) mm (Inch) 0.05-0.66 (0.006-0.026)
Lubrication System
Oil Capacity?€"Automatic
Transmission (Quarts U.S.) 6.675?±0.125
Oil Capacity?€"Manual
Transmission (Quarts U.S.) 6.425?±0.125
Cylinder Block
Main Bearing Bore
Diameter mm (Inch) 72.401-72.422 (2.85-2.851)
Crankshaft and Flywheel
Main Bearing Journal
Diameter mm (Inch) 67.483-67-503 (2.65-2.657)
Connecting Rod Journal?€"
Diameter mm (Inch) 52.988-53.003
(2.0861-2.0867)
Crankshaft Free End Play
mm (Inch) 0.130-0.301 (0.0051-0.012)
Crankshaft Runout to Rear
Face of Block mm (Inch) 0.050 MAX (0.002)
Connecting Rod Bearings
Clearance to Crankshaft?€"
Desired mm (Inch) 0.027-0.069 (0.001-0.0027)
Clearance to Crankshaft?€"
Allowable mm (Inch) 0.027-0/069 (0.001-0.0027)
Bearing Wall Thickness
(STD) mm (Inch) 2.44-2.452 (0.096-0.0965)
Main Bearings
Clearance to Crankshaft?€"
Desired mm (Inch) 0027-0.065
(0.0011-0.0026)
Clearance to Crankshaft?€"
Allowable mm (Inch) 0.027-0.065
(0.0011-0.0026)
Bearing Wall Thickness
(STD) mm (Inch) 1.920-1.928 (0.075-0.076)
Connecting Rod, Piston and Rings
Connecting Rod?€"Piston
Pin Bore Diameter
mm (Inch) 21.959-21.979
(0.864-0.865)
Connecting Rod?€"
Crankshaft Bearing Bore
Diameter mm (Inch) 56.756-56.876 (2.234-2.24)
Connecting Rod?€"Length
(Center-to-Center)
mm (Inch) 150.7 (5.93)
Alignment (Bore-to-Bore
Max. Diff.) c ?€"Twist
mm (Inch) 0.050 per 25 (0.0015-0.984)
Alignment (Bore-to-Bore
Max. Diff.)?€"Bend
mm (Inch) 0.038 per 25 (0.0015-0.984)
Side Clearance (Assembled
to Crank)?€"Standard
mm (Inch) 0.015-0.45 (0.0006-0.0177)
Side Clearance (Assembled
to Crank)?€"Service Limit
mm (Inch) 0.05 MAX (0.02)
Crankshaft Main Bearing
Journal Taper mm (Inch) 0.020 (0.0007)
Crankshaft Main Bearing
Journal Runout mm (Inch) 0.05 (0.002)
Crankshaft Connecting Rod
Journal Taper mm (Inch) 0.015 (0.0006)

Feb 15, 2011 | 1998 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

Uses about a quart of oil between oil changes


all vehicles use some oil between changes
oil is splashed up the side of the piston bore.the pistons have compression and oil rings.the oil rings are to scrape the oil back down as the piston moves down,if this wasnt done you would burn oil every stroke and loose a lot more
1 quart between changes is no big deal

Dec 23, 2010 | 2001 Buick LeSabre

1 Answer

The engine has blown. I need to replace it or change pistons and rings. How difficult is it to change pistons and rings?


It can be time consuming and the end result may not be desirable if you haven't done it before.
--- The following is just a sample of what to do once the engine is torn down: Pistons and Connecting Rods
  1. Before installing the piston/connecting rod assembly, oil the pistons, piston rings and the cylinder walls with light engine oil. Install connecting rod bolt protectors or rubber hose onto the connecting rod bolts/studs. Also perform the following:
    1. Select the proper ring set for the size cylinder bore.
    2. Position the ring in the bore in which it is going to be used.
    3. Push the ring down into the bore area where normal ring wear is not encountered.
    4. Use the head of the piston to position the ring in the bore so that the ring is square with the cylinder wall. Use caution to avoid damage to the ring or cylinder bore.
    5. Measure the gap between the ends of the ring with a feeler gauge. Ring gap in a worn cylinder is normally greater than specification. If the ring gap is greater than the specified limits, try an oversize ring set. Fig. 5: Checking the piston ring-to-ring groove side clearance using the ring and a feeler gauge tccs3923.gif

    6. Check the ring side clearance of the compression rings with a feeler gauge inserted between the ring and its lower land according to specification. The gauge should slide freely around the entire ring circumference without binding. Any wear that occurs will form a step at the inner portion of the lower land. If the lower lands have high steps, the piston should be replaced. Fig. 6: The notch on the side of the bearing cap matches the tang on the bearing insert tccs3917.gif

  2. Unless new pistons are installed, be sure to install the pistons in the cylinders from which they were removed. The numbers on the connecting rod and bearing cap must be on the same side when installed in the cylinder bore. If a connecting rod is ever transposed from one engine or cylinder to another, new bearings should be fitted and the connecting rod should be numbered to correspond with the new cylinder number. The notch on the piston head goes toward the front of the engine.
  3. Install all of the rod bearing inserts into the rods and caps. Fig. 7: Most rings are marked to show which side of the ring should face up when installed to the piston tccs3222.gif

  4. Install the rings to the pistons. Install the oil control ring first, then the second compression ring and finally the top compression ring. Use a piston ring expander tool to aid in installation and to help reduce the chance of breakage. Fig. 8: Install the piston and rod assembly into the block using a ring compressor and the handle of a hammer tccs3914.gif

  5. Make sure the ring gaps are properly spaced around the circumference of the piston. Fit a piston ring compressor around the piston and slide the piston and connecting rod assembly down into the cylinder bore, pushing it in with the wooden hammer handle. Push the piston down until it is only slightly below the top of the cylinder bore. Guide the connecting rod onto the crankshaft bearing journal carefully, to avoid damaging the crankshaft.
  6. Check the bearing clearance of all the rod bearings, fitting them to the crankshaft bearing journals. Follow the procedure in the crankshaft installation above.
  7. After the bearings have been fitted, apply a light coating of assembly oil to the journals and bearings.
  8. Turn the crankshaft until the appropriate bearing journal is at the bottom of its stroke, then push the piston assembly all the way down until the connecting rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal. Be careful not to allow the bearing cap screws to strike the crankshaft bearing journals and damage them.
  9. After the piston and connecting rod assemblies have been installed, check the connecting rod side clearance on each crankshaft journal.
  10. Prime and install the oil pump and the oil pump intake tube.
  11. Install the auxiliary/balance shaft(s)/assembly(ies).
OHV Engines CAMSHAFT, LIFTERS AND TIMING ASSEMBLY
  1. Install the camshaft.
  2. Install the lifters/followers into their bores.
  3. Install the timing gears/chain assembly.
CYLINDER HEAD(S)
  1. Install the cylinder head(s) using new gaskets.
  2. Assemble the rest of the valve train (pushrods and rocker arms and/or shafts).
OHC Engines CYLINDER HEAD(S)
  1. Install the cylinder head(s) using new gaskets.
  2. Install the timing sprockets/gears and the belt/chain assemblies.
Engine Covers and Components Install the timing cover(s) and oil pan. Refer to your notes and drawings made prior to disassembly and install all of the components that were removed. Install the engine into the vehicle. Engine Start-up and Break-in STARTING THE ENGINE Now that the engine is installed and every wire and hose is properly connected, go back and double check that all coolant and vacuum hoses are connected. Check that your oil drain plug is installed and properly tightened. If not already done, install a new oil filter onto the engine. Fill the crankcase with the proper amount and grade of engine oil. Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of coolant/water.
  1. Connect the vehicle battery.
  2. Start the engine. Keep your eye on your oil pressure indicator; if it does not indicate oil pressure within 10 seconds of starting, turn the vehicle OFF. WARNING
    Damage to the engine can result if it is allowed to run with no oil pressure. Check the engine oil level to make sure that it is full. Check for any leaks and if found, repair the leaks before continuing. If there is still no indication of oil pressure, you may need to prime the system.
  3. Confirm that there are no fluid leaks (oil or other).
  4. Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature (the upper radiator hose will be hot to the touch).
  5. At this point any necessary checks or adjustments can be performed, such as ignition timing.
  6. Install any remaining components or body panels which were removed. prev.gif next.gif

Oct 17, 2010 | 1995 Ford Thunderbird

1 Answer

What is the piston ring gap clearance for the ford laser


Which Piston Ring Gap? First of all you need to purchase a Hayne's Manual for your car. It will give you the specifications under the Engine section of the book. The piston has three rings on it. From the top you have your first compression ring, then your second compression ring (these "clearance" specifications or "gap"), should be the same as measured on the piston insofar as the clearance between the "lands and grooves" or between the ring and the piston groove. The third ring is your oil control ring which will have a different clearance between (for example), the top of the ring installed and the piston's groove. Then lastly, you need to place the compression rings and place them in the bore of the cylinder WITHOUT being installed on the piston. A measurement is then taken between the opening gap of the ring while in the block. To make sure it's lined up properly, invert a non-ringed piston down into the bore from the top to make sure the ring is installed at the same depth all the way around.

If you don't want to buy the Hayne's Manual, just stop by your local Dealership and get the Specifications for the two compression rings, the oil ring and the "installed" clearance or gap on the rings.

Hope this Helps,

~00 Buck~

"Still living on the Right Side of Dirt..."

May 18, 2010 | Ford Laser Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

57 registration tt uses approx 1 litre of oil


if its not leaking it must be piston rings or valve seals worn

Feb 07, 2010 | 2007 Audi TT

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