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Good day I recently bought a 1981 Merc 230, 123 shape, 4 cilinder. I had the valves replaced, all gaskets, and seals, I recently had the distributor cap and rotor replaced also,with new sparkplugs and plug cables, but the problem still excist. My problem is, the car battles to start,only recently and when starting, it will not rev up, till its warm, and also there is a backfiring sound coming from the exhaust, sounds like the timing is not right. Secondly, this car is really heavy on fuel, I am getting aprox 10 kilos per litre. Is there anything that I could do, to improve consumption, and also to get rid of the backfiring problem

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Back firing is usually from being out of time. this would be some thing to check. This could account for low power also. One thing to keep in mind is when you had the heads done that it puts factory pressure on old worn piston rings. If the car had a lot of miles you stand a chance of blowing out the rings. Low or no compression. This also would account for low power. I warn people of this when I do head jobs with high miles on the car. One indication of bad rings is oil leaks almost everywhere. Caused from the compression going into the crank case.

Posted on May 20, 2011

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My 2002 Honda Accord 4 cylinder was leaking oil. So I had it checked and he said it was my valve cover gasket,spark plugs, then my solenoid.Had all replaced but still leaks he says don't now problem.


My '96 had the same problem. On my car, the leaks were on the vtec solenoid (spool valve) and the distributor, where the distributor meets the cam shaft. The seals on my distributor weren't serviceable, but your car doesn't have a distributor to leak. Instead, it has a cam position sensor (it's placed identically to a distributor, making it easy to locate). It's probably a simple o-ring replacement between the cam sensor and camshaft.

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Oil leak on driveway coming from front of engine


Dear Sir,
Here is the oil leaking Problem Identifying Technique

Engine oil leaks from the valve cover gasket are common.

  • The intake manifold plenum gasket may leak and cause increased oil consumption/burning and a spark knock during acceleration; the gasket should be replaced.
  • External oil leaks from valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets (front or rear), and the rear crankshaft (rear main) seal area are common. The rear main seal is an unlikely source. Normally, the bearing cap mating surfaces (as well as the sealing surface between the oil pan and bearing cap) are the source for the leaks.
  • Engine oil leaks at the distributor can be misdiagnosed as leaks from theintake manifold seal, oil pan gasket, or rear crankshaft (rear main) seal. A revised distributor is available if oil is found inside the distributor.
  • If the oil filter casing shows signs of distortion from excessive oil pressure, theoil pump should be replaced.
  • Often misdiagnosed as a leaking oil filter gasket, the oil filter adapter can seep from between the adapter and engine block.
  • Carbon buildup on the top of the piston is common. As the buildup increases with mileage and over time, symptoms may vary from light ticking, to ticking/hammering, to hammering/knocking noises. Fuel injector cleaner often solves the problem.

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    How to fix a front leaky oil seal in a 1995 Toyota Camry LE


    Three seals to check. easiest is the valve cover seal. Number and remove the 4 wires going into your spark plugs. remove 4 nuts holding the cover and replace seal.
    Next easiest is the distributor O-ring. Remove air filter assembly remove the distributor cap, then the distributor. With the valve cover still off, loosen the 2 bolts that clamp the distributor down. Remove the 2 terminal leads going into the distributor (4 wire terminal/2 wire terminal) Mark the case of the distributor and the case of the head with one line so you can line it back up on reinstallation. remove the 3 bolts holding the distributor down. Replace O-ring. replace distributor, align, tighten the 2 bolts, then tighten the 3 bolts. replace terminal wiring and cap. replace air filter assembly. Replace valve cover with new gasket. Place spark plug wires back into their proper places. The last one is the oil pan gasket. Drain all oil and remove all blots holding the pan. drop the pan and replace the gasket. Put it all back into place. Do not over tighten the pan bolts as this will cause the gasket to deform, making it leak again.

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    the intake is leaking at back of engine replace intake gaskets

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    On the DOHC: The Spark Plug Tube Seals (Washers) on the Valve Cover has developed a leak.
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    Remove the Valve Cover to Install the Seals.
    If the Valve Cover Gasket have not been replaced recently, go ahead and replace them as well, making sure you clean thoroughly BOTH surfaces before installing any new Seal Washers and Gasket.

    Let me me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me on FixYa.com!

    ps...I'm replacing (for free!) the Valve Cover Gaskets today on a 1994 Nissan Maxima. Looks like we both will have fun!
    If you need the Valve Cover Torque Sequence / Specs let me know on the Comment Section of this Post.

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    Leaking oil left side of motor


    Since it's not clear whether you mean driver side or passenger side, I will address both.

    On the driver side, the most common leak is from the distributor. This can be caused by the distributor shaft exterior o-ring, or it can be caused by the distributor shaft interior bearing seal. To determine which it is, remove the distributor. First detach the spark plug wires, then undo the bolt that holds the distributor to the head, then pull the distributor out of the head. You will see the o-ring on the exterior of the distributor shaft. This is a $0.50 part, so just replace it with a new one as long as you have the distributor out. The bearing seal is on the inside of the distributor. To inspect it, undo the three bolts holding the cap to the distributor body. Pop the rotor off the shaft, the unclip the inside plastic cover. If you see any oil inside the distributor or the distributor cap, this means the seal is leaking and must be replaced. You can get a seal and bearing replacement kit from kbox.ca. Or, you can just buy a new distributor. Note: To get the distributor back in place you must align the shaft correctly with the notch in the camshaft. There is a right way and a wrong way. If the shaft seems to be aligned but does not go in, pull it out and rotate it 180 degrees, then put it back in.

    The other possibility on the driver side of the engine is the main seal between the engine and transmission. If this is the case, you would have to either drop the transmission or pull the engine to replace it.

    What if the oil is leaking on the passenger side? If it's coming from behind the timing belt cover, there is a camshaft seal and a crankshaft seal, both of which can leak oil. To get to them, you will have to remove all accessory belts and the alternator, remove the exterior crankshaft pulley, remove the engine mount (support the engine) and the timing belt covers, remove the timing belt, then the crankshaft pulley and/or camshaft pulley, whichever is necessary to replace the leaking seal(s).

    Where else could oil be leaking from? If it's coming out from near the top of the engine, that's the valve cover gasket. Remove the valve cover and replace the gasket. While you're at it, replace the spark plug tube seals.

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