Question about Chevrolet Aveo

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Right rear wheel stuck and and father and bf think the emergency brake line is stuck or possibly the shoe lining is stuck? any suggestions how to help?

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If you can slightly jack up one or both rear wheels on level ground and put your arm just behind the rear wheel at the axle and you will feel and see several lines going to the back of the wheel.

One will be a thin steel tube ( hydralic line) NOT IT.
Another will be a flexible cable going into the plate behind the rear wheel
THATS IT !
You should be able to see the cables if you get on the ground under the rear bumper. The cables should run arcoss the axle to each wheel.

Grab it and pull back and forth real hard several times and it should release then do it to the other side. (Don't grab any electrical wires).

Make sure you have somebody with you when doing this. Hope this helps. James Booth. PLEASE RATE!!!! THANKS SO MUCH!!

Posted on May 20, 2011

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Hub won't go over new brake shoes


You need to do a few things. When the brakes were wearing, the adjusters expanded to compensate. These are usually called "star wheels" and they need to be adjusted back in. There can also be adjustment on the caliper pistons for some cars.

The emergency brakes have an automatic slack adjuster if you use the E brakes and this needs to be released from the cable spool.

Also check the new linings. There are long and short linings in each kit. It is possible to put both long shoes on 1 axle and both short shoes on the other.

In general, you service the star wheels with lube on the threads and then adjust the linings to allow for the drum to go over the shoes. Torque the wheel to the axle and then adjust the star wheels to grab the wheel and then back off 8-10 notches.

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Brakes grab and anti skid light comes on during acceleration


Check your rear Emergency brake shoes inside the rear rotors. When the brake lining falls off of the metal backing, the linings get ground up inside the rear rotors. The pulverized lining coats the ABS count sensors and the vehicle thinks both rear wheels are turning at different speeds.

That is when automatic anti skid kicks in. The brakes try to stop the spin of the fastest wheel and intermittently applies the brakes.

Remember there are 2 sets of brakes on each rear wheel. The calipers are visible but the drums are concealed as part of the rotor housing.

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ABS and Advance track lights go on and off, but sometimes not always the front brakes feel like the are locking up (actually feels like the wheels are gonna fall off) replaced the sensor (in the back) that...


Sometimes if your rear sensors are in the brake backing plates, you will get debris from the Emergency brake pads and this will affect the sensor count. As the wheel revolution is perceived to be different from one rear wheel to the other, the Traction Control system automatically activates and applies the brakes to make the wheel revolution match on both back wheels.

The Emergency brake linings can fall off of the shoes and create this problem. The brake pads in the front can also separate from the front discs and make the ABS warning illuminate.

Best have a Brake shop remove the rear brakes as they can be a pain to get off when the Emergency brake linings grind up.

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Could be the rear Emergency brakes are binding. Jack up the rear of the vehicle, put it in neutral and attempt to turn the rear wheels by hand.

You do not have to use the Emergency brakes to have problems with them. The linings fall off the metal shoe and bind up on the turning drum within the rear rotor. Then when the direction of rotation changes, the remaining brake linings regroup and jam the other way.

Sometimes the loose lining jams into small bits, pulverized, and sometimes form large chunks that jam the brakes.

Another potential problem you can check with the rear wheels off the ground and in neutral is the U-joints on the driveshaft. Popping is a symptom of play in the joints. Binding is a possibility but the joint is close to breaking at this point.

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1999 F250 4x2 - was stored for 3 months and when I tried to move it - the right rear wheel turns but the left rear wheel won't turn. Took off the brakes and caliper - still won't move. I can move...


Hello, The rear rotor has 2 sets of brakes on it. The other thing is to look for slight movement in the driveshaft when it clunks. Depending on the rearend, some have to have both rear wheels off the ground to turn each side. And of course the trans in Neutral.

With the rear wheel you have an Emergency brake and a drum brake inside the center of the Rotor.
The rear of the brake backing plate has a rubber plug which is covering the Star-wheel adjustment for those drum brakes. You can try to loosen the Star-wheel to disengage the Emergency brake shoes. You can try pulling the brake cables toward the cab, to loosen the cables.

If this does not help, your Emergency brake shoe probably rusted off the brake mount and is jammed inside the drum. The linings fall off the metal like banana skins. I can tell you that if the Emergency brakes are a State safety requirement, you need to consider new rotors because the drum portion is usually trashed with rust.

I hope my Solution is very helpful to you.

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With the older drum brake system going in reverse will often tighten the adjuster on the brake mechanism. The adjuster has a thumb wheel to adjust the shoes in and out. BUT there should be a little plate that locks the thumb wheel once you are where you want it to be. I would guess that either you don't have that little plate or it is not keeping that thumb wheel from turning on the right side.

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1990 Buick Century custom, 3.3 V6, 4 door automatic. I have replaced the linings, wheel cylinders, both rear drums on this vehicle. When the linings are tight to the drum the brakes seem to operate...


YOUR BRAKES SHOES NEED ADJUSTING THAT WHY ITS LOOSE.SEE YOU ADJUST THE BRAKE SHOES BY TURNING THE STAR WHEEL ON THE ADJUSTER SCREW UNTIL DRUM JUST SLIPS OVER THE SHOES.WHEN TURNING THE DRUM THE SHOES SHOULD NOT RUB IF THEY DO REMOVE THE DRUM AND BACK OFF STAR WHEEL A LITTLE BIT SO THEY DONT.

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Drum, Rear Brake System Standard Rear Brake
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Item Part Number Description 1 2069 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring Pin 2 — Rear Wheel Cylinder Retaining Bolt (2 Req'd) 3 — Washer (2 Req'd) 4 — Anchor Pin (Part of 2211) 5 — Wheel Cylinder 6 2028 Brake Shoe Anchor Pin Guide Plate 7 2A637 Parking Brake Lever 8 2296 Brake Shoe Retracting Spring (Short) 9 2296 Brake Shoe Retracting Spring (Long) 10 2200 Rear Brake Shoe and Lining (Secondary) 11 — Washer 12 2106 Parking Brake Lever Pin Retainer 13 — Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable Guide 14 2A642 Primary Brake Shoe Parking Brake Lever Link 15 2A601 Parking Brake Link Spring 16 2068 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring 17 2A176 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever 18 2048 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Socket 19 2047 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Nut 20 2041 Brake Adjusting Screw 21 2049 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Spring 22 2200 Rear Brake Shoe and Lining (Primary) 23 2A178 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable 24 2211 Brake Backing Plate
Heavy Duty Rear Brake
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Item Part Number Description 1 — Rear Wheel Cylinder Retaining Bolt 2 00538 Lock Nut 3 2212 Rear Brake Backing Plate 4 2262 Rear Wheel Cylinder 5 2A642 Primary Brake Shoe Parking Brake Lever Link 6 2A601 Parking Brake Link Spring 7 2A637 Parking Brake Lever 8 2106 Parking Brake Lever Pin Retainer 9 — Parking Brake Lever Bolt 10 — Secondary Shoe Assembly 11 2A179 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable Guide 12 2068 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring 13 — Adjusting Lever Pin 14 — Adjusting Lever Return Spring 15 2A176 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever 16 2047 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Nut 17 2049 Brake Shoe Adjusting Screw Spring 18 2041 Brake Adjuster Screw 19 — Primary Shoe Assembly 20 2068 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring 21 2200 Rear Brake Shoe and Lining 22 2035 Brake Shoe Retracting Spring 23 2A178 Brake Shoe Adjusting Lever Cable 24 2092 Brake Adjusting Hole Cover 25 2069 Brake Shoe Hold-Down Spring Pin
The rear drum brakes:
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  • Are actuated by one rear wheel cylinder (2262).
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  • Adjust rear brake shoes and linings (2200) automatically.
  • Need manual brake adjustment if the adjusters are not operating properly or after the rear brake shoes and linings have been replaced.
When the brake pedal is applied, hydraulic fluid pressure forces the pistons in the rear wheel cylinder outward, moving the rear brake shoes and linings against the brake drum.
The rear drum brake system includes the parking brake mechanism. Refer to Section 206-05 .

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Park Brake Adjustment



Park Brake Adjustment (Disc Brake)

Tools Required

j 21177-A Drum-to-Brake Shoe Clearance Gage

Park Brake Shoe Adjustment

Caution: Refer to Brake Dust Caution.

Important: The park brake shoes must be adjusted before the park brake cable tension is adjusted.Set the J 21177-A so it contacts the inside diameter of the rotor
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  2. Turn the adjuster nut until the lining just contacts the J 21177-A. Park brake shoe to brake rotor clearance: 0.6604 mm (0.026 in)
  3. Repeat steps 1-3 for the opposite side.
Park Brake Cable Tension Adjustment

Important: Before you adjust the park brake cable tension, verify that the park brake shoes are adjusted to provide a clearance of 0.6604 mm (0.026 in) and the rear disc brake rotors are installed.

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Rear brakes lock up


Not wanting to be too general but at least trying to help I would suggest looking under the back end, and specifically at the rear backing plates and to the insides of the rear wheels, to see if you notice any fluids dripping. If these are drum brakes, then you could very well have either a wheel cylinder leaking brake fluid, causing the brake shoe linings to swell up, or it could be a leaking axle seal, allowing differential gear lube out, which will also cause the linings to swell, and minor braking will cause that particular side to lock up.
If this vehicle has rear disk brakes, or was just recently changed from rear drum brakes to rear disk brakes, it is possible that the proportioning valve in the brake line was not changed to match with the disk setup.
Drum brakes operate at approximately ten pounds per square inch pressure (10 PSI) whereas disk units operate at a lower pressure of about 2 PSI.
Just some things to look at. Some brake fluids have no smell, others are very distinctive in odor, and differential gear lube has a very distinct odor...not hard to miss once you've smelled it.

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