Question about Chevrolet Silverado 1500
Warp drive shaft or out of phase
to see if out of phase look at the drive shaft individually
one section at a time
the solide yokes at both end must be in relation to each other
they cant be a thooth out or 1/4 turn out it will be binding and tacking out
center bearing or u-joints will also have vibration when driving big time
Posted on May 20, 2011
Sounds like the D/S is "out of phase". If you replaced the U joints just before this happened, then the problelm might be that the ends were not put back on in the same position, meaning that they may have been turned 90 or 180 degrees..take the driveshaft to a reputable driveline shop and have it rebalanced.
Posted on May 20, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Mar 13, 2015 | 1999 Ford F150 Regular Cab
Dec 20, 2013 | Cars & Trucks
Jan 12, 2013 | Isuzu Trooper Cars & Trucks
two axles, different for ach side. Passenger side has a carrier on the half shaft, driver side is one solid link. Loosen lug nuts, the you need a 36mm socket to loosen the center nut on the drive shaft, same for both sides. Remove the cotter pin and retainer before loosening the center nut. Jack up the vehicle and secure with jack stands. Remove wheels. Remove brake calipers and tie up out of the way. Loosen and remove lower strut bolts (2) and lower ball joint bolts (3). Swing center knuckle out and off the drive shaft. On passenger side, loosen carrier bolts (3) halfway up the drive shaft, above the exhaust pipe and crossmember. This is a pain on the 94, but easier on later models. The passenger shaft has two half shafts joined at the carrier. No retainer clip is used, so pull on the end of the shaft and it will come out. Iff the inner CV boot is puked, it will probably come out in two pieces. You may have to use a large screwdriver to pry the inner shaft out of the transaxle. The driver side does not use a carrier and will come out with a strong pull. It does use a retainer clip on the inside end of the driveshaft. You can get new driveshafts with cvs as an assembly at most auto parts stores, about 60-80 bucks with exchange. Be sure the new driver side shaft has the new retainer clip on it. Assembly is reverse of dissassembly, but make sure to tighten everything up good.
Feb 07, 2011 | Nissan Quest Cars & Trucks
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Disassembly Make sure that you have all the parts and tools you will need. The extent of disassembly depends on the job being done and the inspection findings. Lift the vehicle using an appropriate lift or a jack and safe jack stands. Always make certain that the vehicle is safely supported before working underneath. Unbolt the driveshaft from the yoke. Remove the differential cover or unbolt the third member. Let the oil drain into a suitable container. Please recycle your waste oil. Remove c-clip axles by removing the differential cross pin bolt and cross pin shaft, pushing the axles in and pulling the c-clips. Full float axles are unbolted at the hubs. Punch both carrier caps with identification marks so that you will be able to re-install them on the same side and in the same direction. Most carriers can be pried out of the housing with a pry bar. Further disassembly depends on the job being done. If you're changing the ring and pinion or the pinion bearings, remove the pinion nut with an air gun while holding the yoke, or use a long breaker bar and brace the yoke (bolt it to a long board) so that it can't move. Knock the pinion gear out to the rear with a brass punch, taking care not to damage the threads. Keep track of the location and thickness of all of the original shims. Pinion bearings must be pressed off. Carrier bearings can be pulled using a bearing puller. Internal parts (inside the carrier) can be removed as necessary.
Inspect all bearings and races for
pitting or uneven wear. The inner carrier bearing races
should not spin on the carrier journals. The carrier
races should have a snug fit in the housing. Inspect the
carrier race bores for grooves from spinning races. The
side gear bores inside the carrier should not have any
abnormal wear. All gear teeth (including the spider
gears) should be smooth but not excessively shiny.
Inspect all gear teeth for pitting, chips, breaks, and
for signs of uneven wear and overheating. Inspect
positraction clutches for scoring and wear. Inspect the
axles for pitted, grooved, or dull and rough bearing
surfaces. Check for worn axle splines. All questionable
parts should be replace
The four essential differential adjustments are pinion depth, pinion bearing preload, backlash and carrier bearing preload. The tables at the back can be used to write down shim combinations and results.
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