Question about Chevrolet Silverado 1500

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My drive shaft keeps blowing the carrier barring out, why would that be?

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Warp drive shaft or out of phase
to see if out of phase look at the drive shaft individually
one section at a time
the solide yokes at both end must be in relation to each other
they cant be a thooth out or 1/4 turn out it will be binding and tacking out
center bearing or u-joints will also have vibration when driving big time

Posted on May 20, 2011

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Sounds like the D/S is "out of phase". If you replaced the U joints just before this happened, then the problelm might be that the ends were not put back on in the same position, meaning that they may have been turned 90 or 180 degrees..take the driveshaft to a reputable driveline shop and have it rebalanced.

Posted on May 20, 2011


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Please describe your how to change a drive shaft on a nissan quest 1997 problem:

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When working on your differential you will need a wide variety of tools. Using the correct tools saves time and helps prevent parts from being damaged. Here is a list of some of the tools that you may need:
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Disassembly Make sure that you have all the parts and tools you will need. The extent of disassembly depends on the job being done and the inspection findings. Lift the vehicle using an appropriate lift or a jack and safe jack stands. Always make certain that the vehicle is safely supported before working underneath. Unbolt the driveshaft from the yoke. Remove the differential cover or unbolt the third member. Let the oil drain into a suitable container. Please recycle your waste oil. Remove c-clip axles by removing the differential cross pin bolt and cross pin shaft, pushing the axles in and pulling the c-clips. Full float axles are unbolted at the hubs. Punch both carrier caps with identification marks so that you will be able to re-install them on the same side and in the same direction. Most carriers can be pried out of the housing with a pry bar. Further disassembly depends on the job being done. If you're changing the ring and pinion or the pinion bearings, remove the pinion nut with an air gun while holding the yoke, or use a long breaker bar and brace the yoke (bolt it to a long board) so that it can't move. Knock the pinion gear out to the rear with a brass punch, taking care not to damage the threads. Keep track of the location and thickness of all of the original shims. Pinion bearings must be pressed off. Carrier bearings can be pulled using a bearing puller. Internal parts (inside the carrier) can be removed as necessary.


Inspect all bearings and races for pitting or uneven wear. The inner carrier bearing races should not spin on the carrier journals. The carrier races should have a snug fit in the housing. Inspect the carrier race bores for grooves from spinning races. The side gear bores inside the carrier should not have any abnormal wear. All gear teeth (including the spider gears) should be smooth but not excessively shiny. Inspect all gear teeth for pitting, chips, breaks, and for signs of uneven wear and overheating. Inspect positraction clutches for scoring and wear. Inspect the axles for pitted, grooved, or dull and rough bearing surfaces. Check for worn axle splines. All questionable parts should be replace

Differential Adjustments
The four essential differential adjustments are pinion depth, pinion bearing preload, backlash and carrier bearing preload. The tables at the back can be used to write down shim combinations and results.

Preparing Parts

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1 Answer

Gears chewed up how do i remove my rear differentail. 1997 gmc sierra ck1500

1. Diff cover off. Wheels and brake drums off. Driveshaft off of diff. Loosen yoke nut at front of diff pinion.
2. Rotate carrier to gain access to cross shaft retainer pin's head. This looks like a small bolt living in a divot in the carrier, in line with the cross shaft. Using a GOOD QUALITY 5/16" or 8mm closed-end wrench or socket, loosen and remove the pin. Its threads will extend about 3/4" under the head, and then there is a 2" long (or so) unthreaded smaller diameter section which extends down beyond the threads. This is what goes through the cross shaft and retains it.
3. Tap the cross shaft with a hammer and be certain it is not stuck in its bore. Not likely, but now is the time to check.
4. Rotate the carrier so that the cross shaft is tilted up at the front, down at the back with the rear/lower end being the end that was formerly retained by the pin you just removed.
5. Reach around and poke the shaft so that it slides out, diagonally down and back, and just barely misses the lower edge of the housing. You don't have to totally remove it, but no part of it may be in the middle open space between the pinion gears.
NOTE: if you turn the carrier or either of the axles now, with the shaft out of place, the pinion gears will walk to a different position and it is a PITA to get them back where they go.
6. Go to the outer ends of the axles and push them in. Each of them needs to come in maybe 1/4" to 3/8".
7. Looking back in the differential carrier, you will see the inboard ends of the axles. Remove the C-clips from them. Chances are one or both of the clips has fallen down and you must pick it up with fingers or a magnet. The C-clips look like a big flat washer with a slot in one side so that they can slide onto the ends of the axles and engage a slot.
8. Go out and pull your axles out. They don't need to come all the way out; six inches will do. However, this would be a good time to check your wheel bearings and replace your wheel seals if necessary.
9. Slide that cross shaft back in or all the way out. My recommendation is "in" so as to keep your pinion gears in order.
10. Nothing is in your way now. Remove the four bolts - two to a side - that hold the bearing caps on at either side of the carrier. Pry the carrier out with a pry bar or two, and be sure to catch the shims that live outboard of the bearings on both sides. You (or whoever is doing this) will want these shims - and want to know which side they belonged to - when it is time to reinstall and set up your diff.
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