2000 buick lesabre with abs-low brake pedal after changing all 4 rotors and pads. did not open the hydraulic system

forget all that ABS lamp stuff (BUT IS GREAT TO WARN)
it is telling you the brakes are bad. (WHY IS VAST)
1: ALL FUSES GOOD.
2: OBD2 SCAN THE CAR, AND FOR SURE ABS SCANS TOO.
3:IF ABS SCANS SAY A SENSOR IS DEAD, I MAY BE OR THE WHEEL LOCKS UP.
4: BRAKES ARE BAD, SORRY ABS CAN NOT HIDE BAD BRAKES., EVER. IT CAN ALLOW A TAD WEAK BRAKES AND TUNES FOR THAT. BEST IS FULL SCANS. PCM AND ABS BOTH USING REAL SCAN TOOLS THAT DOES GM. (BOP +CHEBBY)

BAD BRAKES OR , BAD AXLE BEARINGS
BAD CALIPERS, OR THE SLIDER PINS RUSTED AND JAMMED.
BAD PADS
BAD CALIPER PISTONS.
BAD WHEEL SENSORS. CABLES CUT
ABS MODULATOR DEAD AND FULL OF RUST INSIDE,DOOMED.
BRAKE FLUID LEAKS ANYWHERE, NOT ALLOWED;.
OIL FROM SEALS BAD AND LEAKS TO PADS
ROTORS BAD, OR X10 WORSE CRACKED
THIS MEANS A FULL BRAKE INSPECTION IS DONE.
MASTER CYLINDER DRY OR FULL OF 21 YEAR OLD USELESS FLUID? AND IS FULL OF WATER NOW>?
DOT3/4 IS A WATER SPONGE.

I would jack up a front wheel and see if pushing on the pedal with the engine running will stop the wheel from turning.
You need to know if the pressure is reaching the wheels, or if the pads and rotors are too slick to stop the car.
Usually if the pedal is hard, the booster is not working or the brakes are glazed.
Can you stop the car with the parking brake ? That only uses the rear brakes.
You may need a second opinion from a different shop.

The warning light indicates that there is a malfuction in the anti-lock Brake System (ABS). Normally the system will then cease to function so you have a conventional braking system with no anti-lock feature to engage if you lock up the wheels on braking.

This ABS fault warning has nothing to do with the condition of the pads and rotors so renewing them, which is essential for good braking performance, will not solve the problem.

You will need to take the vehicle to a mechanic with the correct equipment to diagnose the cause of the ABS warning. It may be as simple as a failed ABS sensor (or sensors) and that is what I would be checking first.

It is quite safe to drive the vehicle with the ABS disengaged because your brakes will operate normally. What you don't have is the ABS kicking in to release the brake pressure temporarily in the event you brake hard and lock up any of the wheels.

The ABS system has nothing to do with replacing the pads and rotors, the abs is anti braking system the system is designed to keep the wheels from locking up when brakes are applied hard, . you will first need to have the abs computer scanned for codes, the computer will pick up a problem in the system and turn off the system and then turn the abs light on and last it stores a code in the computer, the code will tell you what part of the system has failed. the codes or code are very helpful in pinpointing the problem. the abs system contains speed sensors on all four wheel and a anti braking module and computer, the most common reason for a abs code is a bad wheel speed sensor. this is the most common problem seen, the code for example may read something like this poXXXXX right front speed sensors.again start by getting the codes,good day.

Make sure that you bleed from the wheel farthest from master cylinder first. Bleed again if no luck may have a bad master cylinder.

Actually, changing the front rotors is not that difficult and they are relatively in-expensive. Anytime you change the pads on the front of your vehicle i would recommend having the rotors resurfaced or replaced. Especially if you are getting a brake pedal pulse when applying the brakes. Here is a step by step guide that will help you in removing your Front rotors.

Who else has been driving this car besides you? Most of the rotors that get slight warpage is due to drivers that drive fast and follow close. Excessive braking and making quick stops then holding you foot down heavly on the pedal at stops will warp the rotors. They get red hot and when you press red hot metal it will give.The calipers are pressing the metal every time you stop. Excessive pressure on the pads while foot is off of the pedal may be due to the front brake hoses as the inner core will collapse and will keep pressure on the caliper. I have seen this a lot on gm trucks.

if it fades out not an abs problem pads and rotor may be glazed over [polished from riding brake] check pads and rotor if slippery polished over cut rotor/and replace pads ---if at low speed--almost stopping and getting an abs activation then one of the sensors is dirty or corroded and needs to be replaced low speed activation usually doesnt set off check engine light

worn out pads or rotor, possible broken abs cable to brake. first check to see if all 4 are connected. all ore on back side of brake dust shield. than check to see if the brakes are worn last is the rotors. also see if there is a recall on the brake and battery re charge system.

Have you checked the hardware on the disc brakes all the way around, as well as checking the rear pads? Wore out hardware could cause you to require more pressure to get the pads to move, as well as low brakes on the rear. Your braking system sends more pressure to the front of the vehicle because it requires more pressure up there. Less pressure on the rear can cause this to happen. I'm willing to bet the problem from the pedal is coming from the rear brakes somewhere and not the front. The last possibility that I can think if is a problem in the ABS solonoids, they might not be opening up all the way causing you to require more pressure.