Question about 2003 Honda Element

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Window switch repair

Driver side window switch stopped working. It is dead in the power up position, but I hear a click in power down position, so there is some juice but not in power up position.
What do I do to fix?

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  • bjmoses1 Oct 22, 2008

    I ran into the same problem first with my drivers window ($400 and a new compressor) and now again with my passenger window (saving up to get this one fixed).  


    Is this a common problem?  Did my dealer just swap switches and screw me?



  • suprum Nov 11, 2008

    this morning i noticed that the switch was sometimes working and sometimes not on my driver's side window in my 2005 honda element-
    when i got int he car after work, i noticed that it did not work at all... no click, no strain in power- what should i do? is it a fuse?


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Most likely it's going to be easier to just replace the switch assembly on the driver's door. They often have the electronics encased in such a way that you end up breaking parts trying to access the guts of the system. At our local salvage yard, a window switch module is less than $10 - I'd go that route and see if it fixes your problem. If it doesn't, you can return the part you bought, and at that point, look into a new window regulator (the drive mechanism in the door that lifts and lowers the window).

Posted on Aug 26, 2008

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I can't find the fuse for the power windows on a 1998 Lincoln Navigator


All the other windows work ? Not a fuse , one fuse powers all the windows . Test for B+ voltage at the switch an the window regulator would be the proper diagnostic procedure . Do you own a volt meter ? know how to read a wiring diagram ? how to do basic automotive electrical testing . The Faint click you hear is probably a relay , which means the GEM - genaric electronic modual is energizing the window relay . The windows are computer controlled .

The GEM will activate the OTD Relay until one of the following conditions is met:
  • The LF regulator control switch is pushed to the UP position.
  • The LF regulator control switch is released (OFF position) and then moved to the down position (first detent) or one touch down (OTD) position (second detent).
  • Seven seconds have elapsed since the OTD was initiated.
  • A window regulator electric drive stall condition is detected on the one touch down sense line inputs.
The UP window operation is not controlled by the GEM. The feature is activated when the delayed accessory is active and the LF window regulator control switch is pressed to the UP position. The switch provides delayed accessory power to one side of the motor and ground to the other side through the one touch down relay. The one touch down relay is not active when the LF regulator control switch is in the UP position.
Passenger windows may be raised or lowered using the LF master control switches or the appropriate passenger window switch. Passenger window switches receive power when the delayed accessory relay is active and the LF remote lock-out switch is in the UNLOCK position. When in the LOCK-OUT position, the passenger windows are deactivated.
The GEM controls manual down and auto down window movement with the down window relay. The relay is activated by applying ground directly to one side of the down window relay coil, and deactivated by removing the ground signal.
The delayed accessory relay provides power for the operation of the power windows and the power moon roof. The delayed accessory feature is active when the ignition switch is in the RUN or the ACC position, or when the ignition switch is changed from RUN or ACC to the OFF/LOCK position and the LF and RF doors are closed.
The GEM will deactivate the delayed accessory feature when:
  • the LF door is ajar and the ignition switch is in the OFF/LOCK or KEY-OUT position.
  • the RF door is ajar and the ignition switch is in the OFF/LOCK or KEY-OUT position.
  • 10 minutes have elapsed since the ignition switch was changed from ACC or RUN to the OFF/LOCK position.
Feature inputs:
  • LF door open warning switch (open circuit with door closed, grounded with door ajar).
  • RF door open warning switch (open circuit with door closed, grounded with door ajar).
  • Ignition switch RUN position (battery potential on both the RUN and RUN/ACC inputs).
  • Ignition switch ACC position (battery potential on the RUN/ACC input).
  • Ignition switch OFF/LOCK position (absence of battery potential on the RUN, RUN/ACC, and START inputs).
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Try this the next time that the window stops working, hold the window switch down in whatever direction that you want the window to go (up or down) and while holding the switch in that position open and close the drivers side door and move or wiggle around the weather boot that contains the wiring that is between the door and the body of the vehicle, and do the same for the passenger side door, if the window starts working while you are holding down the window switch and opening and closing the door or moving around the weather boot between the door and the body of the vehicle, then there is a broken wire or even wires that will need to be repaired.

The broken wire can be on either the passenger side, or most likely on the drivers side, and if you do find a broken wire or wires, then you should repair the wires by soldering them well and use the same gage wire if you need to lengthen the wire to repair it successfully, and do not use a wire connector if you want the repair to last.

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Just figured it out and replicated it 3 times..

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The most common symptom is power locks fail and only the driver window quits, however that is on the extended cab.

Steps to fix and it works every time.

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once it begins dinging pull the key out and you should hear the door lock solenoids trigger and the windows should work.

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