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Re: window switch repair
Most likely it's going to be easier to just replace the switch assembly on the driver's door. They often have the electronics encased in such a way that you end up breaking parts trying to access the guts of the system. At our local salvage yard, a window switch module is less than $10 - I'd go that route and see if it fixes your problem. If it doesn't, you can return the part you bought, and at that point, look into a new window regulator (the drive mechanism in the door that lifts and lowers the window).
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The problem could be in the master window switch on the drivers door, or the window motor could be going out, but most likely the cause is a broken wire inside of the weather boot that runs between the door and the body of the vehicle, and the broken wire is making intermittent contact because the door is being opened and closed all the time, and sometimes the wire will touch and make the connection and that is why it only works sometimes.
Try this the next time that the window stops working, hold the window switch down in whatever direction that you want the window to go (up or down) and while holding the switch in that position open and close the drivers side door and move or wiggle around the weather boot that contains the wiring that is between the door and the body of the vehicle, and do the same for the passenger side door, if the window starts working while you are holding down the window switch and opening and closing the door or moving around the weather boot between the door and the body of the vehicle, then there is a broken wire or even wires that will need to be repaired.
The broken wire can be on either the passenger side, or most likely on the drivers side, and if you do find a broken wire or wires, then you should repair the wires by soldering them well and use the same gage wire if you need to lengthen the wire to repair it successfully, and do not use a wire connector if you want the repair to last.
any type of power/voltage change seems to trigger this issue
The most common symptom is power locks fail and only the driver window quits, however that is on the extended cab.
Steps to fix and it works every time.
take door panel off driver's door Disconnect the wiring attached to window and power lock control unit disconnect battery cables connect the negative to the positive cable(((NO BATTERY CONNECTED))) This will act to short residual voltage in the system
5 minutes later place the key in the ignition and turn to the run position connect the wiring to the window/lock controller connect the negative cable to the battery then the positive open drivers side door turn key to the off position((do not remove yet)) you should get a series of dings through speakers telling you the key is still in the ignition once it begins dinging pull the key out and you should hear the door lock solenoids trigger and the windows should work.
Three years and a very unhappy girlfriend who owns the truck. but she's happy now.
Roll the window down. Now hold the button to roll it up and keep holding the button even after the window stops - you may hear a faint relay click noise. It is then reprogrammed. Sometimes I have to do it two or more times because I did not hold it long enough.
When you push the button to raise the window, do you hear it humming or clicking, or is it dead silent? If it's silent, the motor isn't even trying to raise the window. That's either a blown fuse, a dead window regulator, or a dead window switch. If you hear it clicking or making noises, but not coming up, it's either the regulator is messed up (but not dead), or the window has come off it's guide tracks and can't raise up.
I had the same problem...it was the window gear that got stuck when the window was all the way up. (that's the clicking) I took my panel off and banged on the inside of the door with a rubber mallet. The window works again. Since then I make sure when I role the window all the way up to stop that I just barely tap the down button to release the pressure on the gear inside. When your using the hammer...hold the switch in the down mode...ignition on of course.