Question about 2001 Nissan Sentra

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I have a 2001 nissian sentra GXE 1.8L we have changed every sensor the car has oxygen, trottle, mass air flow....... even sent the computer to get checked no problems found, and still the RPM goes up to3 while ldoling and will cut it self off at times when it put into gear. when we attempt to drive it it don't want to change out or it goes dead .PLEASE HELP.

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  • vernessabuie May 19, 2011

    we replaced this part with a new one last week still same results.

  • vernessabuie May 19, 2011

    no .none of my warnings lights are on ,but i will check the lines for leaks.

  • vernessabuie May 19, 2011

    ok, sounds like a plan to me. funds are runnning low.LOL

  • vernessabuie May 20, 2011

    yes. not counting all the other replacements parts we've added, still waiting on my computer to be returned from the repair shop .so we can check for the vacuum leaks. maybe we will have it back by tomorrow

  • vernessabuie May 28, 2011

    my problems are still not over.I have put my car in the shop to have it scaned for problems.results revealed that i needed to replace my trottle body ,air filter and a belt .well the repairs were made today and that seem to help some .but the car is still gettting up to 1,1/2 RMPs when i start the engine.,and upon test driving it it's hard for the car to change out.HELP....

  • vernessabuie May 30, 2011

    It took almost a day and a half but all line were sprayed with W-D 40 to check for leaks we found none is what my repair guy said. so what ever you say to do next that's what we will do.

  • vernessabuie May 30, 2011

    i'm sorry he said it was carb cleaner he use ,that was my mistake sorry. yes we have already checked the intake manifold gaskets . he want to know do yu think the problem coudld be electrial ?because he has tried and did everything he know of.

  • vernessabuie May 30, 2011

    yes the engine light coimes on and then extinguishes when i start the engine.

  • vernessabuie Jun 01, 2011

    can the throttle position sensor be installed incorrectly and cause it to burn out ? if so what is the proper way to install it .does it have some part that needs to be set before or after installation ?

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  • Nissan Master
  • 8,514 Answers

Hi, have you checked the idle air control valve? This valve controls the engine idle. It is sitting on top of the engine near the throttle body and looks like the picture below. You might want to try disconnecting the valve to see if the engine idles any worse. If not, odds are the valve is not working. If the vale is working properly, it will automatically adjust to changes like the A/C compressor coming on or to pulling a hose off the intake manifold. Please let me know if you have questions and thanks for using FixYa.
i have a 2001 nissian - jturcotte_502.jpg

Posted on May 19, 2011

  • 6 more comments 
  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte May 19, 2011

    In that case, I would look for an intermittent vacuum leak. Especially check the big inlet hose for a tear. I would start the car and pull each vacuum hose off the intake manifold one at a time to see if the engine speed changes. If the speed doesn't change, the hose may have a leak at the other end. Is your engine light on; and, if yes, do you have the trouble code?

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte May 19, 2011

    let's see if we can fix this without buying any more parts...

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte May 19, 2011

    I saw that valve was over $100!

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte May 28, 2011

    OK, I still think you have a vacuum leak. If the engine revs too high before changing gears, it is not getting the right vacuum signal on the hose that goes to the transmission. The other symptoms indicate too much air is getting in somewhere thus reducing the overall vacuum in the manifold. Please check every hose very carefully. I know you have had it with this but this is a time for patience. I've seen customers spend a fortune on parts that didn't need to be replaced only to discover they had a simple problem that was hiding from view. I've even done it myself many times. One thing I do in these cases is just start plugging vacuum ports until I find one that alters the symptoms. If you can kink the vacuum lines while the engine is running, this may be a quicker approach. I always check the main line to the brake booster. If that's leaking, it would be easy to get your symptoms. Replace any vacuum hoses you suspect. Vacuum hose is cheap compared to the parts you're been buying.

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte May 30, 2011

    hmmmm...never heard of using WD-40 for that. I use carb cleaner. Did he check the vacuum level with a gauge? How about checking the intake manifold gasket for a leak?

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte May 30, 2011

    yes, it could be wiring, but I would expect the engine light to be on in that case. Does the engine light come on when you first start the car and then extinguish? Maybe the light is burned out.

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte May 30, 2011

    He could check the signals and continuity of the wires for the TPS and IAC.






  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Jun 01, 2011

    no, you cannot burn it up, but the new one could be bad from the factory. It may be possible to hook it up backwards if you shove the connector on the wrong way, but I doubt that is the problem. When they fail, it's because they wear out--they do not burn up. To test the TPS, pull the connector off and connect an ohmmeter between the end and center terminals. Then slowly open the throttle and watch the meter. The meter should change gradually in one direction until the throttle is fully opened. Depending on which end you connect the probe to, the meter may go up or down. The important thing is that it changes gradually as the throttle is opened and does not suddenly drop to zero or go to infinity/error. Am I making sense?

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