Question about 1986 Ford F150 SuperCab

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86 F150 When cold it'll start and run for 1-2 sec then die for good...not sure where to start looking...thx Steve in MD

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  • SteveRemote Jun 06, 2011

    I just wanted to say thank you for your good advice & help. I got it running and have now donated it to help our Vets!



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  • Ford Master
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This year of Ford truck has two very common problems and judging by my 25 years as a dealer technician you have both of them. 1st I recommend you replace both the distributor magnetic pickup and the TFI ignition module, they both have a very serious design design flaw, I caution you to use only Motorcraft replacement parts ( they cost only a few $ more) as the after market ones have a high failure rate and can cause erratic misfires. The ignition module is located on the distributor and held on by 2 (5/32) machine screws, remove the screws and the module pulls straight down and out of the pickup coil connection point inside the distributor. The Distributor pickup requires the distributor be remove the from the engine, mark the location the distributor rotor points and the location the distributor sits in the engine, this makes re-timing easier, drive the pin out of the distributor drive gear and using a puller remove the gear, careful not to damage the gear it is very fragile, remove the shaft from the distributor (if it is stuck use carb spray to loosen the sludge up) and then the two machine screws (5/32) that hold the pickup coil into the distributor body, reassembly in reverse order, remember mark everything that includes the drive gear, it only goes on one way so MARK IT. Once you have the engine running You will need to clean the automatic idle speed control valve and the throttle body valve, they also cause idle stalls here is how you do that. To correct this problem get a can of throttle valve cleaner (it is made by CRC chemicals) from the local auto parts store, spray it into the air intake of the engine until you have used about half the can, you will need to hold the idle up while you do this, it will try to stall, after this shut the engine down and disconnect the Negative (-) battery cable for 5 minutes. The intake is now clean. On very heavly sludged engines it may need to be done twice.

Posted on May 18, 2011

  • yadayada
    yadayada May 18, 2011

    Here is a better set of instructions on the Stator replacement. Also a diagram.

  • Remove distributor. Remove rotor, then the TFI module.

  • If distributor uses push on type rotor, remove two retaining screws holding armature, then the armature. Hold gear to loosen armature screws, do not hold armature.

  • Mark stator, armature, gear and collar with felt tip pen to aid in reassembly.

  • Remove and discard pins in gear and collar if equipped.

  • Invert distributor and place in Axle Bearing Seal Plate and press off gear using Bearing Removal Tool.

  • Deburr and polish shaft with emery paper and wipe clean so that shaft slides out freely from distributor base.

  • Remove shaft assembly, then the thrust washer from shaft. Next remove octane rod.

  • Remove stator assembly screws, then the stator assembly from top of bowl.

  • Inspect base bushing for wear of signs of excess heat concentration, replace distributor assembly if damaged.

  • Inspect base O-ring for cuts or damage and replace as necessary.

  • Inspect base for cracks and wear, replace distributor assembly if damage is found



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