Question about Mercedes-Benz 400-Class
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
i agree it could be,if you havent changed the oil and filter lately do that first using the correct oil grade if that fails let me know then we can go a step further
Posted on Feb 19, 2009
SOURCE: door locks and power window
Just did this procedure I got from coloradofans.com forums:
"any type of power/voltage change seems to trigger this issue
The most common symptom is power locks fail and only the driver window quits, however that is on the extended cab.
Steps to fix and it works every time.
take door panel off driver's door
Disconnect the wiring attached to window and power lock control unit
disconnect battery cables
connect the negative to the positive cable(((NO BATTERY CONNECTED)))
This will act to short residual voltage in the system
5 minutes later
place the key in the ignition and turn to the run position
connect the wiring to the window/lock controller
connect the negative cable to the battery
then the positive
open drivers side door
turn key to the off position((do not remove yet)) you should get a series of dings through speakers telling you the key is still in the ignition
once it begins dinging pull the key out and you should hear the door lock solenoids trigger and the windows should work." - Coloradofans.com forums
Posted on Mar 20, 2010
Before you spend money on a new gauge. Get an oil pressure testing gauge for $20 , remove the oil pressure sending unit and test the oil pressure. If oil pressure at idle and 3000 rpm's is a-ok via spec's ( big money repair items) then its either the gauge a clogged or defective sending unit or the circuitry. (little money repair items)
You can also have this done at a repair shop.
Posted on Apr 26, 2010
Well i have s similar sound but im not sure if its the same. For me i just found out that its a bracket i never put back on. The motor mounts if you get them at an autozone which gives you a life time warrenty runs about 30 bucks and theres only 3 upper passenger and lower passenger and one on the drive side which is connected to the transmission. there is some what of a 4th one but that one never really goes bad and its the worst one of them all. Its located in between the 2 on the passenger side you have to move the engine outa the way to get to it and take it out. Im not sure if autozone or any place sells that one but like i said its probably still ok. i have 170000 mile on my neon and the mounts still good and trust me my cars been through alot and i mean alot its flied over cannels anyway yea so thats what i know about the mounts im not sure why the noise though. I say check the motor mounts if any are ripped change the ripped ones all at once trust me. Oh and i didnt the change on the motor mounts myself so it was free there not hard to change the first 3 i mean maybe the transmission one too all you need is a jack underneath it to keep it leveled right.
Posted on May 21, 2010
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