Question about 1995 Volvo 850

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Intermittent Lights, Speedo, and Fan Problems

I have two intermittent electrical problems that may or may not be related. (1) Sometimes the headlights, turn signals, and speedometer do not work. Restarting the car will get them working, but it may take several restarts. (2) Sometimes the heater/AC fan does not run. Restarting has not solved the problem. The problem usually corrects itself, sometimes after hitting a bump in the road.

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  • Jim Robison Aug 14, 2008

    Does a single connector handle the headlights, speedometer and turn signals? I didn't see how the three items were related in the Haynes Service Manual wiring diagram. Where should I look for the connector? Do I have to remove the entire dash? Thanks.

  • Jim Robison Aug 14, 2008

    I assumed the problem is a loose wire or cracked connection. The problem is where do I start? Can we diagnose the problem, based on the symptoms, and identify some likely suspects prior to spending a couple days tearing out the entire dash?

  • Jim Robison Aug 15, 2008

    There must be over a hundred wires in the dash. Given the symptoms, can you be more specific? I hate to tear apart more than I need to.

  • Jim Robison Aug 15, 2008

    Thanks. The detailed instructions are great.

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  • Master
  • 373 Answers

HI...
On your VOLVO 850.
The Head Lights are Relatinated Directtly with the Ignition switch.
The ignition switch send 12v. Power to the MAIN HEAD LIGHT RELAY and BULB FAILURE WARNIG SENSOR. Incorporated in the Same relay.
Very Important check the Battery terminals, And few ground Below the Battery Holder.
The turn signal switch , has the Funtion to Change the Head lights to LOW or HIGH Beam.
Check for proper funtion.
On left side of the Engine compartment In the Fuse block.
Check the FUSE # 13, 15amp. Replace if need.
The TURN signal work with the Same FUSE # 13. 15 amp.
Related with the Turn Signal switch.
Ok. The blower MOTOR.
Some times work And some times not.
Check the ground wire "BLACK" Below right side of Instrument Panel. If the ground is OK..
Turn the Ignition key to RUN position,
SET the A/C fan to MAX position or HIGH position.
When the Fan is set to High The system make a BY pass At the Blowert motor REsistor. and use a Blower motor Realy to give a High speed.
Using a TEST LIGHT,
Check if There a POWER 12v. at the Green/red Wire.
If you found Power . Check if there a Negative 12v. at the Black WIRE. If you found negative 12v.
Replace the BLOWER MOTOR..
For the Instrument Panel. I recomend Check the FUSE # 3
In the fuse box, Left Rear of the engine compartment.
If the fuse is ok. Check for Power 12v. if you found power
check all the grounds. But if NOT. I recomend Replace the Ignition switch. Because can be the Cause of the Electrical problem in your car.

OK.. I hope this help to try diagnostic your vehicle.
Thank you for use fixya.




Posted on Aug 14, 2008

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  • Master
  • 1,665 Answers

I agree with "loose connections" and bad wire harness suggestions given allready.
check also bad ground wire connections and fuse holder case connections.
Good luck!

Posted on Aug 14, 2008

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  • Master
  • 521 Answers

There is some loose connection in the car so you are facing this problem check the relay box properly

ac heater fan stops It sounds like the blower motor resistor pack has an open circuit. It's mounted inside the ductwork and is certainly a warranty repair.

Posted on Aug 14, 2008

  • tech expert12 Aug 14, 2008

    Some Common Mechanical/Engine Diagnosis and Checks

    If our vehicle is mechanically sick, we can easily sense it while driving. Some of the common symptoms include unusual noise from the engine, imbalanced chassis of the car, starting or stopping problems, rough gripping of the vehicle, peculiar functioning of various levers and many more. In an effort to produce a mechanical engineer in you, here we offer some of the most common issues with their correction measures:


    • Unusual Sound of the Engine - Due to excess driving the engine may start producing irregular noises or humming. This noise may occur due to structural disintegration of the engine. There might be some lugs or nuts which are loose and causing sound while the engine is running. This may also occur because of loose oil-filter into it. So just screw these tightly and you can avoid the service charge of the technician.
    • Crankshaft Adjustments - Crankshaft is an important component of the engine which rotates the fly wheel and is a major driving force behind the efficiency of the engine. This is attached to the piston rod and converts the force generated due to linear motion of the cylinder pistons into rotational motion of the fly wheel. Any wear and tear in its arrangement must be checked thoroughly. Debris or dust deposited over the crankshaft can hamper its working and thus reduce the performance level of the engine. It should be properly cleaned and adjusted for an effective output of the engine.
    • Camshaft Adjustments - Camshafts are responsible for the opening and closing of the valves, which allows or exhausts the air-fuel mixture of the engine. The camshaft serves as a diet regulator of the engine and hence plays a vital role in increasing the output of the engine. You just check for the connections of the camshaft with piston rod and engine. Lubricate the apparatus if it is getting roughened.
    • Miscellaneous - By a simple visual inspection you can check for a number of flaws relating to common problem of lubrication and torquing of the screws.



    If you are unfamiliar with the very basics of application of automobile-tools, then you should not operate with the complex components and expert advise is recommended.

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  • Master
  • 6,966 Answers

Hi,

Your description "corrects itself, sometimes after hitting a bump" is significant. iI indicates a loose connection. Since a number of devices are affected, it could very well be in the main fuse/relay box. Unfortunately, this type of diagnosis.repair would call for a lot of patience. Probably best would be a shotgun approach, that is suspect all and rework all. This involves removing the battery connection and opening the underside of the fuse box to expose the terminals, connectors and all the fuse holders. Thereafter, it is a matter of cleaning and ensuring that everything is snug and fit. It may also help to scrape off any corrosion found and even the use of electrical contact cleaner.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Aug 14, 2008

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Aug 14, 2008

    Hi again,

    To my knowledge no. The headlights will operate through the switch even if the ignition switch is off or not engaged; on the other hand the speedometer and turn signals are only enabled when the ignition switch is ON, not even ACC. This would then mean two separate conditions but with a common denominator, the master fuse/relay box. Though under the dash connectors are possible, the fuse/relay box is most likely.

    Cheers.


  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Aug 14, 2008

    Incidentally, some car stereos would require a security code when the battery is removed.

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  • Volvo Master
  • 19,396 Answers

Check connectors and wiring, probably vibrations are interrupring some bad connector.

Posted on Aug 14, 2008

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