Question about 1999 Nissan Altima

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Should there be ANY slack at the top of the timing chain between the two cam shafts? If so, how much is too much?

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No slack whatsoever check your adjuster make sure is not stuck in the in position

Posted on May 19, 2011

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I have a book here that gives the info as to how to set the timing marks so I will start with the precaution. stated Do not turn crank or cam shafts with the chains removed . Now the rest you have probably done but there is a note here that you may have missed . It says --warning ensure that the crank shaft sprockets are installed correctly. The diagram shows the sprockets together with a dot on each They are assembled with the dots either together or are on the both outsides of the sprockets. To have the sprockets so that the dots are one on the outside and one in the middle is wrong. IN effect the dots either align the sprockets so the teeth are in line which is wrong as the teeth on one sprocket has to point to the middle between of the teeth of the second sprocket. This makes one chain 1/2 tooth out to the other. The last warning is to ensure that the oil gallery blanking plate is installed correctly install one or two chain wedges to take up the slack. at this point I would say that the problem is not having the sprockets assembled correctly is where you went wrong.

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I took old timing chain off my 2001 Mercury Marquis 4.6 and something moved, either one of the cam gears or both. I set the timing on the crank shaft to top dead center, but now I can't get the m


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The timing chain is not that fine, nor do you care about advance with the chain. A single link on the chain is more like 15 degrees, and you will have no trouble deciding which is the best fit.
TDC is always 0, and never 4 degrees advanced.
It is the ignition that is advanced, not the chain. To advance the breathing you would need to either change the cam, or get a variable chain sprocket. But again, you can not tell 4 degrees when putting a chain on. It changes that much at least when you take the slack out.

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This a possible solution. My 2004 just killed on the way to work 3 weeks ago. It would turn over, but would not start. When my mechanic looked at it, I told him I thought it was the fuel pump, because that is how it seem to be acting. As if the pump was not sending fuel. Turns out it was a sensor behind the timing chain. The Cam Shaft sensor. Once that goes I guess it cuts the fuel. Hyundi's have a maintance schedule where you need to replace the timing chain at 40,000. It was the slack in the belt that caused the sensor to go. I had the two belts the the cam shaft sensor and one other sensor in that same place replaced and now it runs like a top. I hope that helps. And I hope that is not your problem. Parts were pretty cheap. But with labor it cost $900.

Mar 03, 2009 | 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe

3 Answers

Need to replace timing chain on 2005 cavalier


I'm doing this myself, and there are some annoyances. Yes, a service manual is good, however, I consulted 2 manuals and got two different answers. Here is the real deal for the 1996 2.2 vin 4 cavalier.

Remove the right tire and platic sheilds. Remove the tensioner pully, (2 bolts).

Remove the harmonic balencer on the crank shaft, 3 bolts first then the center.

Use a pull hammer with correct thread to pull off the "crankshaft thing" on the end of the crank shaft. Be sure to pull it off evenly. I had to find a bolt with the same threads, cut that off, and tap a fitting for my **** hammer. It's on there good.

Remove 7 (8mm) bolts from around the chain cover. Remove the 2 (10mm) bolts from under the cover. Those two studs also have to come out with a small inner tourqe socket. These are very very easy to strip, be careful. The cover is now free.

It is sealed on tight. There are a couple good places to get a bite on the rear facing edge. You will also have to work from the top and bottom to get it free. It pulls strait out, it is positioned by pins. Be patient, that cover will break.

There is silicon that seals the bottom of the cover. Clean that all off with a scraper and wire brush. Pull off and clean where the gasket seats all around the cover. Clean the cover. Replace the gasket and the outer oil seal that goes around the crank shaft. The only way to get that seal out is to break it. Press the new one in with a vice, do it evenly and slowly.

I've found a good method to get the cam shaft sproket off.... There are 3 slots and a hole. Rotate the cam sproket clockwise till you get the hole to about 9o'clock. Put drill bit or short piece of hard metal (something that won't bend) in that hole and apply some pressure while you rotate another 10 degrees or so. The bit will drop into a hole. Now rotate counter-clockwise and the bit will bind the sproket so you can remove the bolt. Nice huh? I get it unbound by putting a screwdriver between teeth and prying against the crank shaft. Use your imagination.

The timing **** is retarded. And I still havn't found a deffinate answer for everything. The crank shaft makes two rotations for every one that the cam makes. The first crank shaft rotation is the compression stroke, the second is the power stroke. I don't know how to tell the difference.

To get the sprokets aligned, re-install the cam sproket, don't worry about getting it tight. Rotate it clockwise until the hole in the sproket lines up with the ear on the chain tensioner. Now, bind the gear right in that spot and remove it. Now, take that "crankshaft thingy" and push it on by hand as far as you can. Notice the key, and dot on one of teeth. Put the bolts partially in the thingy and rotate it by using a bar or screwdriver between the bolts. Move that sproket until the dot on the tooth lines up with the ear on the chain adjustor. The key will point directly up. Good job. Tap that thingy off the shaft now.

Compress the chain adjustor and put a pin through it. With the cam sproket removed, put the chain on it. Work the chain onto the crankshaft sproket. Slide the cam sproket onto the camshaft. Easier said than done, but it is possible. If you are having a hell of time, use a mirror and check that you are lining it up properly with the pin/key in the crankshaft. I found that leaving a little slack at the top, as opposed to the bottom helps. FYI, when i say little, i mean it. There is very very little slack, but the chain does buckle slightly.

Remember me saying that I have no idea how to tell between power and compression stroke. Now you will hate me. To get mine right, I had to tighten the cam sproket then replace my spark plugs and attempt to start to start the car. I guessed mine right the first time and it ran fine. However, if it ran rough or not at all. I would have had to remove the cam sproket again, remove the chain and rotate the crankshaft sproket one full turn.

When you put this all back together, use plenty of slicon on the bottom of the chain cover. Re-assembly is a snap, or at least is was for me.


Jul 28, 2008 | 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier

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