Question about 1995 Mercedes-Benz S-Class

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I have a 96 320 SL with a badly leaking frost plug at the rear of the head right up against the firewall. Instead of taking the head off and exposing myself to the can of worms in the valve gear, i thought i would take the engine out and repair the frost plug. Can you tell me if in uncoupling the exhaust/inlet side/radiator hoses etc there are any hidden traps for the unwary?

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If Mercedes is new to you on the repair side, try locating an additive called "Liquid Glass" and follow the instructions on the bottle. This stuff is in fact a permanant repair and can save you a lot of money and time. If this does not work for some reason, let me know.

Posted on May 18, 2011

Testimonial: "I have tried a product called Radweld and initially it worked fine but eventually the leak resurfaced . I re-tried it but the leak is too large now."

  • Kori Policy
    Kori Policy May 18, 2011

    That's where this stuff really comes into play. I recomend this to all problem leaks and have used this stuff myself on stuff I was really skeptical on.

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Leaking water on 4.6 2000 deville on right side against firewall possible causes


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You need to discover where the leak is coming from first. I have seen engines frozen solid where the core plugs remained intact but instead it pushed the water pump and bent the housing. Being right at the front of the engine and most exposed to the elements I suppose it took the worst of the conditions.

Old British engines used saucer or penny core plugs and they dropped out very easily at the first sign of frost but the dish type in common use now need a lot of force to shift them especially if they are fitted with a hard sealing compound.
It isn't often a core plug will pop out where it is easy to reach because those that are easy to reach are generally the smaller ones and with bigger holes to expand into the ice tends to choose the water pump or the bigger plugs at the back of the block and sometimes cylinder head.
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I suggest you discover which one and then come back again. Your question could then be about removing the engine or the transmission, though I hope you will be lucky and if it is one you can reach I hope you will realise just how lucky you have been.

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i think you mean freeze plugs, any way there will be three on each side of engine block below exhaust manafolds. to get to the one on the right side clear to the rear of engine, the starter will have to be removed. if its the one in the middle, motor will have to be jacked up and motor mount will have to be removed to get to it. also there are freeze plugs on back of engine block, behind flywheel if one or both of them are leaking trans. will have to come out to replace them. also chk. the rear of intake were intake, and head, and block come together, same in the front could be leaking there also. as far as your truck not wanting to start i will need a little more info to help with that, like is it gas or diesel? if its gas does it have spark? can you hear fuel pump run and relay click? i will try to help the best i can but i need the info.

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