Question about 2000 Nissan Altima

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2001 Nissan Altima - Instrument panels gauges stop working

When driving along, My instrument panel gauges go out. Gas, Speedodometer, Tach, and Temp gauge. Than I loose engine power. However, everything will come back to normal. I have read many compliants for the 01 Altima for this issue on the internet. However, I haven't seen the resolution. 102,000 miles on the car and it runs great until this problem shows itself.

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  • brian586 Aug 14, 2008

    When driving along, My instrument panel gauges go out. Gas, Speedodometer, Tach, and Temp gauge. Than I loose engine power. However, everything will come back to normal. I have read many compliants for the 01 Altima for this issue on the internet. However, I haven't seen the resolution. 102,000 miles on the car and it runs great until this problem shows itself.

  • Gary Oct 20, 2008

    When driving along, My instrument panel gauges go out. Gas,
    Speedodometer, Tach, and speed control. I do not lose engine power but somehow the power comes back on and all is normal. I have read many
    compliants for the 00 Altima for this issue on the internet. However, I haven't seen the resolution. 110,000 miles on the car and it runs great. Just not sure how to address this problem before it gets worse.

  • Anonymous Nov 25, 2008

    00 altima all gauges go out except gas

  • Richard Ma May 11, 2010

    Hi, Kray, thank you for the useful information.

    My car has the opposite symptom. All the gauges stop working when the instrument panels (the whole unit) is in a warm state, that is, either the panel illumination lamps are on (causing the whole unit warm) or during the warm weather when the interior of the car is warm. If driven at night (with the panel illumination lamps are off), everything works fine. If I turn the illumination lamps on, just after driving 2 miles, all gauges stop working. The panel is very sensitive to the temperature.

    I also took apart the instrument panels and looked at each solder joints by eyes. I didn't find the transistor TR1 and any cold solder joint.

    Could you please provide further information if possible?

    Than you very much.


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My 2001 Altima's instrument gauges die out after high-speed driving for 40-50 miles. Engen also loses power. Everything is back to normal when the car cools down. It turned out the ingition relay was bad. I could duplicate the problem right away by removing the relay. Actually, it is very easy to find the relay which is located above the fuse panel. The ignition relay is the bottom left one among the five relays there. It costs only $20.

Posted on Nov 13, 2009

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  • leoprime Feb 20, 2011

    Thank goodness I found this. Thank you for posting. Now, to your, or anyone's knowledge, can this problem have anything to do with intermittent door lock issues?

  • deville Jul 15, 2012

    There is no ignition relay, i looked in the relay box & found nothing... there is only an ignition switch fuse, & that looked fine.

  • deville Jul 15, 2012

    oh wait, i found it... i was looking under the hood not the dash... i switched it with the fog light relay just to see if the problem stops.

  • syang Jun 29, 2014

    If switching the relays doesn't solve the problem, you may try replacing the instrumental cluster. This was how i fixed the same problem when it resurfaced. A used instrumental costed me $35. I replaced it myself. It's been fine so far.

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I believe I might have the solution for this problem because I have a 2001 Nissan Altima with the same issue. Mine would start the problem usually at a cold state then could tap the panel after it warmed up and was fine ever since or maybe go off again and make engine putter, I guess going into a "safe mode" state!
I had numerous garages and dealership check out this issue....no luck except the dealership did say it was a bad connection in which I knew because of the "tap dash" type fix!

I finally took this into my own hands and tore apart instrument panel and saw that the dealership "rigged" the instrument connector(white) by stuffing a piece of cardboard so that it made a better/tighter connection. This was kind of a quick fix as it only made the pcb bend a different way slightly curing the problem. I wiggled plug and sometimes it seem to go out or maybe not! Well, I went a step further and took apart the panel(housing for the gauges) to physically look at the pcb board and noticed a transistor connector on lower section in center had cold solder joints....reflowed and all was well!!!

My guess is that it gets too hot and slowly becomes a cold joint!

Hope this helps as I am posting it on a few with same issue.

Kelly

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

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  • kray37 Jan 03, 2009

    Oh yeah, forgot to tell that the transistor is TR1 and can be seen by the capacitor on other side of pcb without takin totally apart!



    good luck....

  • kray37 Jul 23, 2009

    Sorry for the late response as I never get on this site except to just help someone(s) with what I've found.



    It's been awhile but if I remember correctly, the TR1 is black and square and sits right next to the odometer reset stick. I don't believe you even have to take off the black back plastic casing to see that transistor. Although, I think you have to disassemble to ck solder joint underneath. Forgive me as it has been awhile since I been into it.



    hope that helps

    Kelly

  • BNAmMechanic Aug 03, 2011

    Thanks Kelly, I can confirm that this was the exact issue with my car. I have a 2001 Nissan Altima and the instrument panel has been going dead when driving for the past few months, but I found that I could temporarily "fix" it while driving by depressing the odometer reset button. I finally gave your solution a shot, KRay, and can confirm that it was the TR1 transistor that needed to be re-soldered. For anyone that follows in my footsteps, you can see the transistor from the front of the instrument panel once you have removed the cover, then you can trace it to the backside of the pcb to see which solder joints need to be re-done. They are just as KRay indicated, down at the bottom, center of the panel, next to the odometer reset. In order to remove the panel, just unscrew the two screws on the top underside of the panel cover, then use a screw driver/panel popper to pry the panel cover out (two places on the top-middle, then a couple more on either side of the panel on top and bottom). I found it easier to remove the panel by starting at the sides and then "rocking" the panel back and forth, top to bottom. Unplug your electrical connectors, then unscrew the 4 screws securing the cluster to the car and unplug the two electrical connectors at the top backside of the cluster. Good luck to anyone following in my footsteps.

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SOURCE: 2001 Nissan Altima - Instrument panels gauges stop working

I'm going to offer you real good advice, obviously your not a technician, this job is not for your weekend mechanic, diagnostics is the key to your electrical problem, you need to know about using a DVOM so you can find where the short is, I've seen this problem before in a nissan, it turned out after chasing wires for 5 hours that a key wire in back of the fuse box was loose, causing an intermitent vehicle stalling and shutting down-horrible problem to have I know. FIX??? Yeah you can get a manual and look up the wiring schematics for your vehicle, then perform an ohms test on every wire that could possibly effect your problem, check your computer, see if it smells internally like electrical burning, But I recomend a trained mechanic- job cost?? well the problem is we dont know how many hours its gonna take to find that short, then how to repair the problem is another problem, this can be a costly repair, or it could be very simple unless I was actually on the vehicle I could give you an exact price, pick a mechanic thats trust worthy and known hope it helps

Posted on Feb 13, 2009

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