Question about 1997 Volkswagen Jetta

3 Answers

2.0 motor in 1998 cabrio changed themostat fromm dealer 44.00$ cooling fans working runs warm after 45 minutes of running at an idle no heat brand new heater core rev motor up a little and you get good heat let it idle and no heat it takes about 45 minutes for the radiator to get hot all over replaced motor and used radiator, still doing the same thing has not overheated yet but gets to 210? then cools down to middle of gauge200checked impeller on water pump through themostat opening and impeller seams to be fine

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  • Stephen Trask
    Stephen Trask May 18, 2011

    the sensors that were in replacment motor and and radiator were left in, they wernt from original motor and radiator

  • Stephen Trask
    Stephen Trask May 18, 2011

    it seem very strange for two waterpumps to be bad and when i filled the radiator i had the heat on high as you could set it, the only way you get heat is by reving up motor , can not understand why it takes so long for the radiator to get hot it seems like it works from the top radiator hose down and then across the radiator over to the other tank were sensor is for cooling fans

  • Stephen Trask
    Stephen Trask May 18, 2011

    thermostat housing is located at bottom of motor no sensors there unless you mean housing on back side of head not farmiliar with ect senor what is its purpose, and i didnnt change other pump but did inspect impeller through thermostat housing

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The coolant doesn't flow thru the radiator/heater correctly because either:
1 - there is lime and dirt deposits in the coolant circuit : you will need to run a flushing solution like
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ZEREX-Radiator-Super-Flush-4NPP3
take the thermostat out, drain the coolant, add the solution and fill the rest with demineralized water, run the engine for an hour with the internal heater at max, drain it all then reinstall the thermostat and refill with coolant. If it's the same then
2 - one of the rubber hoses has aged and it has peeled inside - the rubber flap that apeared is blocking the flow when the pressure given by the water pump is too little to push it aside. Replace all the water hoses.

Posted on May 18, 2011

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  • Master
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The impellar can still be in place but not be turning like it should by the shaft on the pump due to corrosion. Replace the pump and make sure the heat is on when you fill and bleed the cooling system. This will make sure that you have no air bubbles trapped in the system. I have a VW shop manual if you would like it emailed to you.

Posted on May 18, 2011

  • Kori Policy
    Kori Policy May 18, 2011

    That still doesn't explain the heating issue. Usually if the engine has to be rev'ed to gain heat, there is a circulation issue and if the impeelar is not spinning like it should you could get that. The systems on these should remain pretty steady on the temp. guage.

  • Kori Policy
    Kori Policy May 18, 2011

    Do you still have access to the old engine to be able to remove the pump and inspect? This was not uncommon on these engines however. Did you ever fit a new pump?

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  • Contributor
  • 104 Answers

Where the sensors changed when the motor was

Posted on May 18, 2011

  • Shane Millis May 18, 2011

    my advice would be replace the ect sensor which is located in the themastat housing

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1 Answer

Overheating when I sit idle.


Over heating the engine is a serious concern. With the hood raised you should hear the motorized fan turn on just behind the radiator as the engine requires additional cooling.. If you look in from the rear of the radiator you should see the fan blades.

This electric powered motor operates on a thermostat and when the engine temperature rises this fan should come on. I'm assuming from your description that when driving and air is flowing through the radiator as the car travels the engine is nor overheating.

Check fan motor thermostat, check fan motor and check wiring.

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Car does not heat up despite debater being on and letting ca run for 15 minutes


There are several things which come to mind. You have 2 complaints. A gas smell and a cold blooded vehicle.

Starting with the temperature problem. My initial concern is whether the thermostat is weak, but also that the automatic controls may be inoperable and working against you. The car is suppose to go into a temporary "cold start routine" which increases the RPM and makes the fuel rich. (This could contribute to the gas smell)

After the Temperature sensor and O2 sensors warm up, the idle is suppose to drop and the fuel mix should lean out. If the engine remains at high idle, the water pump will work faster with the engine spinning faster. Sometimes there is not a direct 1 to 1 ratio between the heat generated by the motor and the RPM versus the cooling produced. An idling engine may warm up faster than an engine running at higher RPM.

Another problem may be the Defroster setting. There are Thermal switches which are suppose to cut off the Electric Radiator cooling fans. When the Defroster is activated, some cars are built to spin the A/C compressor in the Winter. But the Electric Radiator cooling fans may also switch on as part of the A/C system. This would super cool the radiator at a time when you least want it. Check to see if the cooling fans are activating when the Defroster is turned on.

There can be 2 Temperature switches in your car. One would send the signal to kick out the "cold start routine" and the other would work the guages or indicator lights.

The O2 sensors can have heaters in them or they can just be slow. If you leave the engine idling like you do, they could foul out and be sluggish to warm up.

If running the Temperature at 80 degrees causes an additional 5 minutes of warm-up time, you may be better off setting it for say 72 and having it work sooner.

The thermal sensors are not that expensive. Work on a cold engine when changing them. Note what I said about your rich fuel mix contributing to the smell.

Please rate my info.

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Check radiator cooling fans are operating ok (as required when car warms up) - if not check
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Check for collapsing (soft) coolant hose on suction side of waterpump when engine revs above idle.
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