Question about 2002 Lexus ES 300
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2002 es 300 lexus
There is one before each catalytic converter (usually up right near the exhaust manifolds), and one after each cat (or if you have a Y-pipe exhaust that brings the two sides together to one pipe and one converter, then there's one after that single converter). Why do you want to change them? Have you gotten failure codes or are you having poor gas mileage? Or have they just been in there a long time? They're usually good for about 60k miles, although of course they can fail early. Usually the symptoms are poor fuel economy, running rich (seen by black smoke out the tailpipes and some rough idling, as well as blackened spark plugs), or fault codes dealing with system-lean or system-rich descriptions. Those symptoms are indicative of bad primary O2 sensors (the ones closest to the engine). If your secondary sensor(s) are failing (the post-cat sensor or sensors) you'll trip a check-engine light warning you of poor catalytic converter efficiency.
Posted on Sep 28, 2008
1. I presume your button on the dash (which opens the trunk) is not working. You could take that button out of the dash panel and manually activate the circuit by using the wires themselves.
2. If the "valet" key doesn't fit the trunk lock, see if the keys are visible through the center back seat access 'hole', make a wire hook attached to a broom handle, etc. and try to catch the ring the key is on. If the view is blocked by other things you can't move, figure out at way to move things in the trunk so you can get something to reach the key(s). Do you have other metal keys on the same keyring? If so, use a magnet to grab the whole set.
3. Have you considered taking out the rear seat? Do the bottom seat cushion first, then the back.
4. By now you have hopefully already gotten your keys back out of the trunk, but if not I hope one of these suggestions works. MW
Posted on May 12, 2009
Hello, I have a 2000 ES300 and while the body style is different believe the newer model still has the rear deck mounted sub-woofer that you are referring to. The process of removing this speaker would start off the same as if you were going to replace the third brake light also located in this housing. Using a flathead screwdriver work your way around prying/popping up all four corners of the speaker grill covering the speaker that have the retainer clips. Once you disengage the clips work/maneuver the grill up and towards you gently and it should slide out. The bulb for the third brae light will be attached to this speaker grill, disconnect the snap wire from the bulb and you should have a clear visual of the speaker and the four bolthead screws securing it. Remove these screws and your almost home free. The next part might be slightly more difficult. If the speaker s simply connected by a clipped on wiring harness, just detach.On my 2000 ES300 i have the pioneer system(Not Nakimichi) and the 2 wires (one black, and one red) are soldered directly to the speaker. You can take a soldering iron(maybe a battery or gas powered one unless you have an inverter) and remelt the solder to remove the wires or you can elect to simply cut the wires. If you choose to cut them make sure you cut them as close as possible to the soldered joints so you have plenty of wire left to install the replacement speaker.Then install replacement either soldering or using crimp clamps and reassemble. ( Note if you simply want to add a aftermarket amplified sub-woofer you don't need to remove the sub-woofer out of the housing. You can tap into the wire leads and run it directly to the amplifier. Just cut one of the wires leading to the stock sub-woofer so it doesn't also come on and potentially blow while the radio is on. This will also prevent any bass humming when the radio is shut off but the aftermarket amplifier is still on because once one of the wires to the stock sub-woofer is disconnected or cut it breaks the circuit. Hope this helps.
Posted on Jul 22, 2009
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