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How do you place thrust washers into a 22r toyota main crank,are they next to the big end bearing?

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Yes they are

Posted on May 17, 2011

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What is the torque setting for main bearing and big end bearing of a Toyota Yaris 1.0 1kr 3 cylinder?


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Tighten the main and big end bolts in sequential order and in steps two steps.
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You've not told engine size.Could be a 22R or a V6.I've no idea.But go to PepBoys and get a Hanes manual for that truck.

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Crankshaft endplay double the max spec 01 sebring 2.7L


check for after market thrust bearings ( federal mogul ETC) . next option is to have an engineering shop manufacture the thrust bearings . IF you cannot get thrust bearings then you have little option but to junk the crank as a floating shaft will give you problems with timing belt/chain alignment and ignition timing along with crank sensor problems.

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Tercel 1992 main bearings torque


The Main Bearing Cap TorqueTo install:
  1. When reassembling, clean the bearing caps and journals in the block thoroughly. Coat the bearings with a liberal application of clean motor oil.



0900c15280051ec0.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 3: Always torque the bearing caps to specification


0900c15280051ec1.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 4: Main bearing cap bolt tightening sequence on 3E and 3E-E engines

  1. Fit the upper bearings halves into the block and position the lower bearing halves in the bearing caps.
  2. Place the crankshaft into the engine block, making sure it fits exactly into its mounts.
  3. Install the upper thrust washers on the center main bearing with the oil grooves facing outward.
  4. Install the main bearing caps and the lower thrust washers in the proper sequence. Make sure the arrows on the caps point towards the front (pulley end) of the motor.
  5. Tighten the cap bolts to specification in three passes. On 3E and 3E-E engines, use the correct sequence.
  6. Double check the end-play of the crankshaft by repeating the procedure described earlier.
  7. Turn the crankshaft through one or two full clockwise rotations, making sure that it turns smoothly and evenly with no binding.
  8. Attach the piston rods, following procedures given earlier in this section. Remember that the rod caps must be reinstalled in their original positions.
  9. Install a new rear main oil seal into the retainer and install the retainer onto the block. Tighten the bolts to specification.
  10. Install the rear end plate on the engine.
  11. Install either the driveplate (automatic) or the flywheel (manual), observing the matchmarks made during removal.
  12. If equipped with a manual transaxle, reinstall the clutch disc and pressure plate.
  13. Install the oil pump.
  14. Install the oil strainer and oil pan, using new gaskets.
  15. Rotate the engine into its upright position and continue reassembly of the timing belt, idler pulley and covers.
  16. Reinstall the engine in the car, following procedures outlined earlier in this section.
42 Foot pounds (Final torque)

Dec 15, 2012 | 1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT

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I removed the number 3 main bearing cap and found that when the engine was rebuilt that the thrust washers were not installed and the crankshaft rubbed against the block and cap. does anyone know if i can...


all the cars that I have worked on in the past have the thrust washer as part of the bearing shell which looks like a shell that has had both the sides folded up. not real sure about your motor but.
If it is like I said the shell comes as 2 halves, if you remove the bearing cap you should be able to push on one side of the bearing that does not have a little protruding piece that lock that half of the bearing from turning around.
If the surface of the crank that was rubbing on the block is rough and scored the crank will have to be replaced or machined depending on the damage that it has had done to it.
If you use it damaged you will ruin the bearing very quickly and have to start all over again

May 12, 2009 | 1983 Toyota Celica

1 Answer

1987 NTC300 CUMMINS


All main caps cannot be torqued until all are in place finger tight. A bolt small enough to fit in the oiling hole in the crank can be ground down to help roll bearing in place, just rotate crank. I thought the thrust bearing was in #6 but its been a while. Also look for chaffing at cap/block surface. Thousands of miles will cause chaffing at #6 or 7 mateing points. If you cannot see the mfg's grinding markes you have less clearance than before. Unless you replace the block you need to put the old bearings back in for those caps. Good luck...

Sep 18, 2008 | 1999 Ford Super Duty F 450

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