Jumping 4x4 Many thanks for yr help. There is no knocking sound, just only squeezing the rubber of tire on rigid surface (e.g. wet asphalt) road or skidding of the running wheel on non-paved path. And few short jumps as I mentioned. Brgds, henryVI
I don't too much about that sort of thing. But I do know that whenever I need a paving job done or any kind of construction work I can call aberdeen construction. They always do a great job.I don't too much about that sort of thing. But I do know that whenever I need a paving job done or any kind of construction work I can call aberdeen construction. They always do a great job.
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That's normal with only the '98 5.9's. I have been through this and through this. It comes from the factory like that unfortunately because it would be nice to pull into a space and not hop.
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Most 4WD systems are designed to be shifted in and out "on the fly". It is less stressful for the drive train doing it while in park however. 4WD does not like cornering - especially on "grippy" surfaces such as dry asphalt (why would you need 4WD on dry asphalt, anyway?). Dry asphalt is really tough on 4WD as the the tires may have minute differences in circumference as a result of wear and since all are spinning at the exact speed (even going straight ahead), those difference add up and strain the drive train. Slippery surfaces allow the tires to slip away those differences as soon as they begin to appear. Even wet pavement allows this to happen, tho not as easily as grass, dirt, snow or ice.
Drive in a tight, complete circle on dirt and you'll see that there's a shorter path of tracks for the inside tires than those on the outside. Yet, the 4WD locks all wheels to turn the same amount. The jerking during the cornering that you're feeling is the inside tires trying to spin to "catch up" to turning at the same rate as the outer tires. See the video linked below.
Check your manual and you'll likely be cautioned against running 4WD on dry pavement for these reasons.
Normally manual 4X4 vehicles will jump and buck when turning. When you engage the transfer case to direct power to the front axle it locks the front differential. When driving on dry asphalt there is sufficient traction to cause lurching while turning . In snow ,mud or on wet asphalt there is enough slippage that you won't notice the lurching. In these vehicles the 4X4 is intended for use when driving conditions warrant it, and for normal driving conditions it should be driven in 2WD only.
4 whl drive is not meant to be run on wet or dry surfaces, it is meant for slippery conditions and or pulling , as in a stuck vehicle,a boat out of water, It is common for a 4x4 to **** and bind when turning on a surface where the tires have no slip. Jack front of truck up and rotate wheels check for grinding or rough roll,as it could be wheel hub (s)
When you take the vehicle out of 4X4, you should always back up for around 50 feet to fully disengage the 4 wheel drive..........Hope this helps and also the electronics on the transfer case may be corroded or bad.
When you have 4x4 engaged, you take the differentiation out of the equation to allow the tires to turn at different speeds. With no differentiation between the tires, you drive train binds up. What you are feeling is the binding forces overcoming the traction of the tires on the road surface and relieving the stress on the components.
If you are feeling this binding, you are driving on a hard, high-traction surface which does not require 4x4. In loose, slick or low-traction situations, your tires slip slightly so the drive train does not build up stress on components.
Using 4x4 in situations where it is not necessary can lead to premature failure of locking hubs and other driveline components.
Test the tread depth, see how close it is on all 4, Toe-in setting is supposed to point the front tires toward each other very slightly. On a dry surface in 4x4 if you turn a tight circle you should feel skipping when the tires pull against each other. Caster, camber and toe in should have all been checked on all 4 wheels. With newer cars that have traction control and antiskid, the old methods of alignment are not any good. It is quickly becoming quite specialized.
use part time on wet or slippery road surfaces. Use full time in snow. Though some will shift into different modes at a standstill, I generally do so when rolling at 5-20mph...it makes engagement easier on the transfer case. when driving on dry road surfaces, why use 4x4? it uses more fuel and really has little benefit. differences in front/rear wheel speed must be absorbed by transfer case alone, while on slippery surfaces, a bit of tire slippage reduces stress on unit.
I don't too much about that sort of thing. But I do know that whenever I need a paving job done or any kind of construction work I can call aberdeen construction. They always do a great job.
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