Question about Mitsubishi Montero
Have you considered the possibility that the shudder is caused by the Universal Joints (U-joint). Your vehicle would have at least 2 (or more) U-Joints and would exhibit shudder at a particular speed.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
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Posted on Aug 14, 2008
Checkpoints Make sure you can live with oddball rear door opening with vertical split on driver's side and heavy spare on kerbside.
Most examples were long-lived and reliable but occasional quality lapses led to problems for others. Model is now old enough for most early examples to be approaching 300,000km so problems can be age and wear-related after a hard life. Find a fresh, well-maintained example and it can be a seriously hard working long life vehicle.
Early petrol engine was simple and long-lived. Timing chain and tensioner are main wear points as the kilometres mount up. Age and heat hardened valve stem seals will boost oil consumption typical of most Japanese overhead cam engines of this period. Early diesel engine was relatively straightforward with expected wear issues as for any high mileage diesel.
Later quad-camshaft V6 brings regular cam belt replacements with occasional tensioner replacement. Some of these later V6 engines displayed heavy oil consumption from relatively low mileage while others developed it suddenly as kms hit 150,000 plus. Engine is sensitive to having exactly the right oil specified by Holden/Isuzu. Hydraulic lifter rattle is not uncommon with poorly serviced Japanese engines but in later Jackaroo engine designs these ticking sounds are usually an indicator that the shim adjusted tappets are due for attention which is much cheaper than replacing failed lifters. Beware of engines that have been run without oil by owners who didn't check oil level then doctored it up with heavy oil to hide damage. If poor piston ring tension or excessive wear are causing heavy oil consumption look for blue smoke under load. If worn valve stem seals are at fault, look for blue smoke after prolonged idling and on the overrun when foot is lifted off the accelerator. A compression test is a must with an older petrol engine. These oil burning indicators also apply to diesel engines.
Later V6 alloy heads had little excess metal in them to cope with extra combustion heat of LPG conversion. Cooling system pressure and cylinder compression test essential to eliminate possibility of cracked heads. Later EFI system was more complex and needed more sophisticated conversion to LPG for optimum running. LPG conversions that inject petrol under heavy loads can extend cylinder head life. All cooling system components must be in good shape.
Occasional petrol engine idle problems can be traced to faulty computer and injection components. On high mileage engines, it might be time for a full injector clean along with cleaning of the air-flow meter and idle control electronics.
Later 3-litre Turbo-diesel can run perfectly or bring a nightmare sequence of problems. Alloy heads can crack. Major recall for 1998-2000 models involved new injector seals that could now be ready for replacement again. Some service specialists suggest even for post-2000 diesel engines, these seals should be changed with each cam belt replacement as required for this engine. High-pressure direct diesel injection was known to bypass early injector seal design and fill sump with diesel and/or allow engine oil to bypass injectors into cylinders. In both cases, this could enable the engine to run on its own lubricating oil without control over engine speed hence the recall. Any increase in sump oil level or hint of involuntary running should be addressed immediately.
Diesel tappet adjustment is a routine maintenance requirement so make sure it has been done. Black or white smoke from diesel engines can indicate faulty injectors. Glow plug seals can leak or become seized as steel thread reacts with aluminium head. Botched repairs can lead to expensive head replacement. Make sure they are all present and operating with same depth of thread.
Clutch shudder on manual models is not uncommon with heavy weight and relatively peaky V6. It can be caused by uneven diaphragm pressure caused by pressure plate distortion or uneven spring pressure but before removing clutch make sure that hydraulic circuit is operating smoothly with full pressure and clutch master cylinder pushrod is not binding. Engine mounts can shear with age and heat and also cause shudder and excessive engine rock.
Automatics can show normal wear and tear as evidenced by sluggish engagement from rest, flaring during changes and unwillingness to lock into overdrive.
There are parts in the steering that wear with age but more alarming is the occasional chassis crack. Neither is necessarily a product of offroad use but extended inner city work where drivers constantly steer front wheels while stationary. Look for odd wear on inside front tyres. Check chassis for cracks around all front suspension mounting points. It is not a big concern if repaired expertly with a sleeve.
Like all Japanese imports reaching this age, switchgear and electronics will start to fail. Check all accessories and operation of all switchgear as they can be expensive. Check wear and tear on all cabin trim as unprotected seats can be worn through so lift seat covers if necessary.
There is a wide range of replica parts which are fine for trim items but be wary of non-original headlights and tail lights. Body is generally long lasting but watch out for examples that have been abused offroad, rolled and repaired or submerged. This is one vehicle that needs to be raised on a hoist and inspected underneath.
Posted on Aug 14, 2008
Have electronic lock up checked
Posted on Aug 14, 2008
You really haven't posted a question but rather a statement. What are you looking for us to help you with exactly with the shudder fault
Posted on Aug 14, 2008
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US.
click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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