My Kia Sportage has been stopping on me at times. It seems when it happens, it is when I release the gas pedal to come to a stop. Mostly at intersections, stop signs and left turns. The gas tank was replaced soon after I purchased it in 2005 for a recall. the dealership can't find the problem, it doesn't show up on their computer. No warning lights come on that I noticed. I also noticed the engine reving up when my car was in park a couple of times.
Re: 2005 Kia Sportage kills when release of gas pedal
Sounds like a faulty engine warning light and a problem with one of your vacuum hoses. This is difficult to find. Probable just an old cracked hose or loose connection. Propose this to your dealer. Just keep taking it back and tell them to check all of the vacuum hoses and the computer. Good Luck
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Your problem is half normal actually. Pumping the brakes will build more pressure in the system and will make the pedal harder and the brakes will brake alot more, the brakes are designes this way. But if the brakes don't release after you let go of the pedal, that's not normal. If this is the case, there may be a few things that can be faulty, but i'd start by checking/replacing brake vacuum booster unit. If the unit is ok, then probably one of the calipers on the brakes are starting to jam due to rust and dirt, especially if you see the the rubber seals on the caliper pistons are damaged or missing.
could be the switch, usually located under the dash, the brake pedal (when released) should make contact with the switch pushing it in, when you press the pedal it will release it.. it may be sticking or just bad this is where i would start
Some makers used Vacuum releases for their emergency brakes which had a Vacuum switch connected to the shift assembly. This would account for a stumble if Vacuum vented out through this switch.
More common for shifting stumble to occur from Park to Drive, engaging a load on the engine, not to stumble to a freewheeling Park position. Sounds like idle speed control is sluggish to stabilize the motor.
You also have idle speed control problem with A/C, kind of shows that A/C was what kept the engine running because when you turned the A/C off, the car died.
I am going to give you some Websites for wiring diagrams. Alldatadiy.com amd Autozone.com with free wiring info upon registering your vehicle.
It seems that the base Idle speed control is not working and the A/C idle speed control is.
Also check for Vacuum leaks on the intake manifold by spraying water from a pumpbottle on the seams of the gaskets.
Check ignition Relay or ignition switch for random cutouts. The fusebox layout is on the Autozone site.
Hello...get the vehicle back to the shop that worked on it....Sounds to me like one or more of the calipers won't release it's grip when you release the brake pedal or the master cylinder is locked...Think about it...it's like driving with your foot on the brake pedal....or maybe your power brake booster...anyway...Get it back to the shop that worked on it and bring your receipts for all the work done...Let me know what happens...I hope this was helpful...PEACE........
This is not a master cylinder problem, it an ABS hydraulic control sticking, the ABS in this is what we call "Active ABS", this means it can provide brake activation with bo driver pedal input. 1st have the system scanned for fault codes, if none are found I would be suspect of the ABS unit.
When bleeding never allow the Masrer Cylinder get below 1/4 full or you will introduce more air, which will mean starting over again. I helps if you have a length of clear plastic tubing that fits snugly over the tip of the bleed nipple so that you can see if there is any air bubbles being released. You usually start at the rear wheel that has the longest run of pipe from the master cylinder. Next is the other rear wheel. Next is the front wheel with the longest run and last is the remaining front wheel. Proceedure:
1. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3 or 4 time then hold down an maintain weight on pedal as it drops when fluid is released.
2. Release bleed nipple and observe fluid coming out for bubbles then retighten when flow stops.
3. Assistant then allows pedal up and waits for a few seconds for cylinder piston to refill fully.
4. Repeat from #1 until no more air bubbles are visible, then go to next wheel.
If pedal still feels a little spongy repeat process after a couple of days driving with engine running so that any remaining tiny air bubbles are purged.
You should also make sure that the brake pedal free travel adjustment is correct because if the free travel is insufficient, it will not allow the master cylinder to operate correctly..
Most mechanic shops would be able to check the fuel pressure coming from your fuel pump. Before you do that, try replacing your fuel filter. If your fuel filter has gotten clogged, there may be enough resistance to kill the motor. It is possible that you have some other obstruction in your fuel system, like a clogged fuel line that will also cause this problem.