I see you alot in the automotive section, you give some very good solutions, and I've noticed that you generally hit one or two things I over look. If we put our heads together I'd bet we'd hit the answer evey time. Did you see the contracts when it heats up comment this yahoo posted. If you know of anything that contracts when heated let me know, because I'd hats to be wrong on something, lol. http://www.fixya.com/cars/t921792-94_oldsmobile_3100_v6
Anyway, just wanted to say hey, and find out where you're from. I'm in Joplin, missouri. Are you going to get in on the motorcycle category if I can get it on here? Wondering if you ride or have experience in motorcycles?
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Re: Putting our heads together
We own a 250cc Yamaha YZ
I don't have a motorcycle license but I drive almost anything that goes off-road. I also have a 700cc Skidoo Mach 1 which is explained because I live in Wisconsin. I'm looking for a new (well used) ATV and figure with the way gas is, I should be able to find one fairly cheap. I have friends that ride the big bikes. I actually just replaced and upgraded the engine in my car which is more than can be said by the Indian posters who probably only own a bike(cycle). I answer what I know, so if the motorcycle area has something I can answer, I will, otherwise I leave it be. I post in many different areas but I'm the kind of guy that fixes everything himself so knowledge is not a problem. So thanks and hope to see you here for a long time or at least until I get fed up with the yahoos.
Have a good night, I think it might be Ping Pong time soon.
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that is alot of machining off the head? I would double check the valve timing first, then valve clearances. it that is no good you will have to replace the head and then kick your machinist up the bumb for cutting so much off
The clutch plate can only be fitted one way. If you noticed one side of the plate has a raised section that contains springs. The other side is flat. Puting the plate the wrong way round allows the raised section to hit the heads of the flywheel bolts and this is causing the clutch to spin even though you have the foot on the clutch. Make sure you have properly bled the air from the clutch system. Mostly there is a notice printed on the clutch plate which reads like flywheel side or this side away from flywheel
If the shop that performed the tune up didn't put the car on diagnostic test equipment - they may not have noticed a problem; as normal engine speeds needed for a tune up are seldom greater than idle.
Sounds to me like you've got a problem with the emissions system - or one of the sensors that provide information to the on board computer. This could be anything from clogged catalytic converter to a failed oxygen sensor.
Generally, you'd see a "Check Engine" or "Service Engine Soon" indication on the dashboard. Check to see if the bulbs work by shutting the car off, then turn the key from off to the start position - slowly. One position should give a "bulb check" - meaning power is applied to the indicator lamps in the dashboard to show you that the bulbs work. Note any that do not come on (you might need to consult your owner manual to learn what & where these lamps are). You should see the Oil, Temperature, Brake , etc. lights come on - along with the "Check Engine" / "Service Engine Soon" light (among others). The "Check Engine" / "Service Engine Soon" lights are usually yellow - while the others are red. If the light does not come on, you may be unaware of a problem because the light doesn't work as expected.
I'd return to the shop that performed the tune up and explain the symptoms and see if they can help. It may very well be something that a tune up can not fix.
Lastly, when you have a problem with the car - you might be better explaining to the service provider what the problem is - and let them figure out the cause; rather than doing the diagnosing yourself and assuming a tune up will fix the problem. When you do that, the provider simply does what you've asked. They know nothing of the problems you're experiencing.
I do not know the model but I will try to give some ideas based on other cars as I am an Automotive Engineer with many years of experience. You said that you tested the cylinder head for any cracks? Or you just skimmed it. If you did whilst you fitting the cylinder head you did not hit it on surface before installing? What about the compression Gasket is the right one? What about any Core Plugs if are somewhere by the cylinder block even removed the head are not seen after or are they anywhere in the timing ? Is the any chance the timing chain or belt mirror- bracket- or the water pump housing on cylinder block has a corrosion and water goes through? What about if it has any Oil Cooler has a Crack and can not seen? I hope I manage to give you some Idea about. Good Luck and hope everything goes as you want.
I'm all for helping folks saving $$ and doing their own work, but my friend you don't want to get into this one. When a timing belt breaks, it usually takes many other parts with it - mainly valves. It's going to need to be drain of all fluids, head pulled, inspected cam and crank aligned and it requires alot of specialty parts... trust me, let a shop address this one.
I have never worked on a 79 Jag, but I have worked on a lot of engines. The advice I would give you is what I would do, and what I would do would be to take the engine out and work on it rather than leave it in the car. Especially a V 12. I know that it is a lot of work removing the engine, but to pull the heads you have to do almost everything needed to remove the engine and then you are not working over the fender of the vehicle where at times is a pretty hard feat in itself, plus you have to worry about the car's finish also. Good luck my friend, you are in for a big job, but I know when you get it done you will feel REALLY good about it.
BTW, what ever you decide, before you start take alot, and I mean alot of pictures that you can put on your computer and blow up. It will be invaluable to you when you are putting the thing back together. It will help you route cables, gas lines, vacuum lines, etc. Take pic's every step of the way. When you remove the radiator take pictures, this will help you see things you can't see when the radiator is in, air filter, battery etc. I can't enphisize it enough.
I hope this helps you in some way.
Yes. Absolutely. Not only will it mess up your timing but on some engines if the timing is off far enough, the pistons will hit the valves as the engine is turning. The result will be bent valves. At that point, depending on the engine, you can kiss the heads goodbye. Buy a book and make sure you have the cams set to the appropriate timing marks before you go through all the trouble of putting this thing back together just to have to tear it apart again.