Assuming you mean the transmission sounds like it is in Neutral although drive or reverse is selected, my take is that the transmission has failed. You can do some checks for obvious causes, by getting under the car just checking if there is not any sign of damage to any of the pipes or electric connectors, but if there aren't any, you might do well just to have a professional check it out, Automatic transmission repairs is not a quick DIY
Your OBD port fuse may have blown. It is often the same fuse as the lighter.
SOURCE: 2003 GMC Sierra Knock sensor and oil pressure??
the knock sensors are located below the intake plenum,or,upper intake manifold as some call it, they screw into the lower intake, the front one is sensor 1, the rear is sensor 2. it is wise to change both if you have some miles.since you are going to be buying a gasket set to do this job.the sensors are cheaper than the gaskets.
SOURCE: whirring noise front end 2003 yukon denali xl
Your front pump in the transmission could be going bad. Check the transmission fluid for level and condition. The fluid should be bright red and not burnt (dark in color like burgandy). Best thing to do is take it to a transmission shop and have them check your truck for DTC codes with a Tech 2 scanner and have them do a transmission line pressure test. The whining can also indicate low on transmission fluid and that's bad, you may have burnt some of the clutch packs already and shorten the life of your transmission. Good luck and keep me posted, be glad to help.
SOURCE: My airbag instrument warning light on my 2005 GMC
The air bag light is activated by the sensing diagnostic module. The SDM has detected a component or wiring issue that may prevent the system from operating in the event of a crash.
Take your truck to your local Auto Zone or Advance Auto and ask them to check the vehicle for diagnostic codes. Write the codes down and respond back and we can see what the issue is.
Good luck, let me know.
Regards,
SOURCE: 2006 GMC Sierra Denali,wont turn over, battery
iF YOU HAVE NO 'CLICKING' OR ANYTHING THAT INDICATES A DEAD BATTERY - NO DASH LIGHTS ETC, THEN LOOK AT YOUR BATTERY FIRST, TRY TO JUMP IT. THISE ARE TOUGH TO JUMO AND TAKE ALOT OF JUICE TO START YOUR VOLT METER NEEDS TO READ OVER 13 VOLTS, DO NOT CONNECT TO BATTERY FOR BEST RESULTS, CONNET TO ENGINE, NEXT TO THE ALTERNATOR IS A GREAT SPOT, AND THE RED BLOCK THAT IS UNDER THE MASTER BRAKE CYCLINDER (YOU'LL SEE IT WHEN YOUR STANDING AT THE FRONT OF THE TRUCK AND LOOK TO THE RIGHT BETWEEN THE BATTERY AND THE ENGINE)
IF YOU CAN GET ANY JUICE TO THE CAR TO EVEN MAKE THE LIGHTS COME ON AND GET THE INSTUMENTS TO READ OUT, ETC BY USING JUMPER CABLES, THEN MAKE SURE YOU CAN GET JUICE, ALSO MAKE SURE THAT EVERYTHING IS OFF, ROLL DOWN THE DRIVERS WINDOW - OF COURSE YOULL NEED TO MAKE SURE THAT IF THE VEHICLE DOESNT START TO LEAVE THE JUMPER CABLES ON LONG ENOUGHT TO PUT IT BACK UP, AND CLOSE THE DOOR, LEAVING ANY ACCESORIES ON LIKE THE AC, RADIO, ETC JUST MAKES JUMPING THIS 10x HARDER, YOU MIGHT EVEN NEED 2 CARS AND 2 JUMPER CABLE, I THINK THE BEAST NEEDS SOMETHING LIKE 400 AMP TO CRANK OVER, IT'S ON THE BATTERY. ANYWAYS THE REASON WHY YOUR PUTTING THE WINDOW DOWN IS SO YOU DONT LEAVE THE DOOR OPEN AND WASTE JUICE, LEAVE THE KEY IN, BUT JUST PUL IT OUT ENOUGH SO IT'S NOT CHIMING. HAVE THE PERSON WHO IS JUMPING YOU SLOWLY REV THERE ENGINE TO SEND MORE JUCIE TO YOU. I HAVE THE SAME TRUCK AND HAD THIS HAPPENA MILLION TIMES. I FINALLY BOUGHT A JUMPER BOX FOR $50 AND IT SAVED ME ALOT OF HEADACHES. MY PROBLEM WAS I HAD A PROBLEM IN THE ELECTRICAL THAT LEFT A DRAW OPEN - THE IDEA THAT WAS POSTED ABOUT BYPASSING RIGHT TO THE STARTER IS A GREAT ONE, BU IF YOU NOT SURE WHAT YOUR DOING IT'S NOT REALLY THE 1ST AVE I WOULD TAKE, IT WILL JUMP THE TRUCK AND TURN IT OVER (UNLESS THERE IS ANOTHER PROBLEM) BUT WHAT ABOUT THE NEXT TIME? IF YOU PUT THE KEY IN AND GET A READING OF 13 +/- VOLTS ON THE DASH GAUGE THEN YOUR PROBLEM IS MOST LIKELY YOUR SOLINOID (SP) IT'S ABOUT A $60 PART AND EASY TO PUT IN, INVEST THE $$ TO BUY A CHILTONS OF EVEN BETTER A GM SERVICE MANUAL FOR THE TRUCK. WHEN YOU DO GET IT STARTED THE GAUGE SHOULD START TO RISE AND READ 14.5 +/- VOLT CONSISTANTLY, BUT IF YOU GO TO AUTO ZONE THEY WILL 'LOAD TEST' YOUR TRUCK FOR FREE. IF YOU STILL HAVE THE ORIGINAL BATTERY ITS TIME FOR A NEW ONE - AND DONT CHEAP OUT ON THE CHEAPEST ONE, SPEND THE MONEY FOR A GOOD BRAND OF BATTERY, SOMETHING THAT CAN HANDLE THE BEAST, 600 COLD CRANKING AMOS IS WHAT I THINK THE RATING FROM GM IS. IT WILL SAVE YOU A LOT IN THE LONG RUN. AUTO ZONE WILL HOOK UP A TESTER AND LET YOU KNOW IF YOUR BATTERY IS NO GOOD OR YOUR ALT IS BAD, ETC. BUT IT PRETTY MUCH ALLL STARTS WITH THE BATTERY.
THE ONLY OTHER THING IS THAT YOUR VEHICLE MAY BE IN LOCK DOWN IF YOU HAVE A KEY THAT IS WORN REALLY BAD AND ALOT OF MILES YOU MAY NEED TO REPLACE THE IGNITION CYCLINDER - ANOTHER $60.00 FROM THE PARTS COUNTER, AND THEN YOU NEED TO HAVE A BLACKSMITH CODE THE CYCLINDER, $35.00. HOPE I'VE HELPED
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