Question about 1994 Nissan Altima

2 Answers

Engine shut off while driving, cranks over.

Engine stalled while driving,no spark, rotor on distributor tuns, primary and secondary on coil are fine voltage at coil is present, no voltage at power transistor( green wire)... could the ignition resistor on the wiring harness be the problem if the ohms aren't at 22k?

Posted by on

  • 1 more comment 
  • taxista Oct 16, 2008

    I, had the car running while waiting at the grocery store, suddenly stop, coil resistance primary and secondary is fine, just no spark and injectors don't have pulse, this car has alarm can be something wrong with the alarm system?

    Thanks

  • charlgo90 Jan 25, 2009

    engine stalled while driving,no spark, rotor on distributor tuns, primary and secondary on coil are fine voltage at coil is present, no voltage at power transistor( green wire)... could the ignition resistor on the wiring harness be the problem if the ohms aren't at 22k?

  • Anonymous Mar 30, 2014

    the engine was running fine. I shut it off and it wouldn,t start. I poped the distributor cap. When I crank the engine, the distributor rotor does not spin.

×

2 Answers

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

    Corporal:

    An expert that has over 10 points.

    Mayor:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 2 times.

    Problem Solver:

    An expert who has answered 5 questions.

  • Contributor
  • 4 Answers

Hi, I had the same problem, no spark. I check coil it was good, check the injectors for pulse they are fine, I checked the four wire harnes conected to the distributor are fine, I check resistance at the power transistor in top of the air filter assembly and it was wrong, I just replaced the power transistor and the car is running good again.
I hope this help you.
Thanks

Posted on Oct 21, 2008

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

    Corporal:

    An expert that has over 10 points.

    Mayor:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 2 times.

  • Contributor
  • 4 Answers

Sometimes oil gets into the distributor and cause a loss of spark. Before you start spending money take a close look inside the distributor to verify the presence of oil or the lark thereof.

Posted on Sep 24, 2008

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

2 Answers

I got no spark won't start. 93 1500 Chevy truck 4.3 motor


How long since a tune-up?
Check for applicable trouble codes, if there are any? Your obd 1, you should be able to check for some codes, if the mil still works.
Check primary voltage at the coil, pink wire, key on. Use a test light to check for voltage.
The spark plugs--plug wires--dist cap and rotor all good? Does the rotor turn when you crank it? If you take coil wire loose from distributor cap and hold close to engine ground, have helper crank it, do you see a spark jump? I don't know what testing you have done?
With bypass ignition it's the ignition module that controls spark during cranking. With the coil itself, key on, should be voltage on both sides, if only one side, the coil is faulty. The ground for the coil should pulse, with engine cranking. I'm sure I've left something out? You need to do some testing.

Apr 17, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Engine cranks but no start, no spark. What else can I check?


is it actually rotating when the engine turns over I know sounds stupid but I\'ve seen the teeth that goes inside against the cam break off on first turn over happened to me once on a Honda, also that same car my original problem was I was getting power and everything like you but the icm on the distributor was putting the power out on the ground side and the power turned to ground not allowing the distributor to do its job and produce spark





hope this helps

Aug 29, 2014 | 1994 Toyota Corolla

2 Answers

I have no spark any reason that comes to mind?


possible distributor. most of the time spark is produced by distributor

Mar 25, 2011 | 1992 Honda Accord

2 Answers

No spark from coil 1991 chrysler labaron v 6


Start by testing the ignition coil primary, and secondary resistance.

To measure the primary resistance, connect an ohmmeter between the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals (the terminals which are connected to the engine wiring harness) on the coil. To test the secondary resistance, connect an ohmmeter between the positive (+) coil terminal and the high voltage cable terminal on the coil. Then, measure the resistance between the positive (+) coil terminal and the coil case; the resistance for the case should exhibit infinite resistance. For coils manufactured by Diamond, the primary resistance at 70-80°F (21-27°C) should be 0.97-1.18 ohms and the secondary resistance should be 11,300-15,300 ohms. Coils built by the Toyodenso company should exhibit a primary resistance at 70-80°F (21-27°C) of 0.95-1.20 ohms and a secondary resistance of 11,300-13,300 ohms. Replace any coil with a new one if it does not meet the specifications.

FAILURE-TO-START TEST Before proceeding with this test make certain that spark has been checked for at the coil. Refer to the ignition coil testing procedures. Failure to do this may lead to unnecessary diagnostic time and wrong test results. CAUTION
Be sure to apply the parking brake and block the wheels before performing any test with the engine running.
  1. Check the battery voltage. It must be at least 12.4 volts to perform the test. If the battery voltage is not at least 12.4 volts, refer to Section 1 for battery charging procedures.
  2. Crank the engine for 5 seconds while monitoring the voltage at the coil positive (+) terminal. If the voltage remains near zero during the entire period of cranking, refer to Section 4 for the On-board Diagnostic checks. The checks will test the PCM and the auto shutdown relay.
  3. If the voltage is at near-battery voltage and drops to zero after 1-2 seconds of cranking, refer to Section 4 On-board Diagnostic procedures. The problem is likely to be related to the distributor reference pick-up circuit to the PCM.
  4. If the voltage remains at near battery voltage during the entire 5 seconds, with the key OFF, remove the PCM 60-way connector. Check the 60-way connector for any terminals that are pushed out or loose.
  5. Remove the connector to the coil positive (+) and connect a jumper wire between the battery positive (+) terminal and the coil (+) terminal.
  6. Using the special jumper wire shown in the illustration, momentarily ground terminal No. 19 of the 60-way connector. A spark should be generated when the ground is removed.
  7. If a spark is generated, replace the PCM with a new one.
  8. If no spark is generated, use the special jumper wire to ground the coil negative (-) terminal directly.
  9. If a spark is produced, inspect the wiring harness for an open circuit condition.
  10. If no spark is produced, replace the ignition coil with a new one.
TESTING
  1. Check for stored trouble codes, then proceed as follows:
    • Fault code 11 - proceed to the next step.
    • Fault code 54 - proceed to step 6.
    NOTE: Before proceeding, verify that a minimum of 12.4 volts is available from the battery for operation of cranking and ignition systems.
  2. Test the distributor pick-up signal reference circuit as follows:
    1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
    2. Unplug the distributor pick-up connector.
    3. Remove the coil wire from the distributor cap and have an assistant hold it 1⁄4 in. (6mm) from a good engine ground.
    4. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
    5. Connect a jumper wire to the gray (GY) wire terminal and touch the other end of the jumper wire to the black/light blue (BK/LB) wire terminal on the distributor harness connector several times. While performing this, observe the coil wire.
      • If there is spark from the coil wire, proceed to the next step
      • If there is no spark from the coil wire, the problem is in the engine controller or wiring.
  3. Check the power supply to the distributor reference pick-up as follows:
    1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
    2. Connect a voltmeter between the orange wire in the harness connector and a known good ground.
      • If the reading on the voltmeter is 8-9.5 volts, proceed to the next step.
      • If the reading is anything but 8-9.5 volts, check for problems in the circuit between the reference connector and the engine controller.
  4. Check the mechanical operation of the distributor as follows:
    1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
    2. Remove the distributor cap from the distributor housing.
    3. Crank the engine while observing the ignition rotor.
      • If the distributor rotor revolves while the engine is being cranked over, replace the distributor pick-up coil assembly with a new one.
      • If the distributor rotor did not rotate, inspect the engine for a mechanical fault and repair as necessary.
  5. If fault code 54 (No distributor sync pick-up signal) is being received, or was received before performing this test, proceed as follows:
    1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
    2. Unplug the distributor pick-up connector.
    3. Connect a voltmeter to the tan/yellow (TN/YL) wire of the harness connector.
    4. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
      • If the reading on the voltmeter is at 4 volts, replace the distributor pick-up coil assembly.
      • If the reading is 0 volts, check for an open in the wiring harness between the reference connector and the engine controller.

Jan 30, 2011 | 1991 Chrysler LeBaron

1 Answer

I am geting no spark at the coil


First of all let's explain how the spark gets to the plugs. There is a crankshaft position sensor and a cam sensor. They are what determines when to fire the coils and injectors. The crank sensor is located on the passenger side on top of the bellhousing, the cam sensor is the pickup plate in the distributor. As the engin turns the send refernece pulses to the computer which grounds and ungrounds the ignition coil causing it to discharge and send voltager from the secondary coil wire to the center tower in the distributor cap. The rotor button recieves the voltage and distributes it to the 6 towers (1 for each cylinder) If you say you're getting spark from the rotor that tells me the primary side of the ignition system is working, and the secondary side is working into the distributor cap. I'd check for spark out of the plug wires at the plugs. Pull a wire and insert a #2 phillips screwdriver into it, hol the shaft of the screwdriver aprox 1/8"(no more) from the exaust manifold and observe the spark as someone turns over the engine. You should see a nice blue spark. If theres spark, spray a little gum cutter in the throttle body an crank it, if it fires you have a fuel problem. Install a fuel pressure gauge on the schrader valve on the fuel rail and observe it as you crank it. If theres no fuel pressure maks sure there's fuel in the tank, if so climb underneath and beat on the bottom of the tank with a rubber hammer, the pump may be going bad, sometimes you can jar them and make them run.

Dec 04, 2010 | 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan

3 Answers

I have power to the HEI distributor, but nothing down the plug wires. I would like a test to see if the internal(removable) coil is good, maybe a resistance value


Below is a generic proceedure for checking your ignition coil.

Ignition Coil Resistance
  • With the key off and the battery lead to the ignition coil disconnected, use an ohmmeter to measure the primary and secondary winding resistance of the ignition coil. when checking the resistance across the windings, pay particular attention to the meter reading. if the reading is out of specifications, even if it is only slightly out, the coil or coil assembly should be replaced.
  • To check the primary windings, calibrate an ohmmeter on the X1 scale and connect the meter leads to the primary coil terminals to test the winding.
f22-39.gif Ohmmeter connected to primary coil terminals.
  • An infinite ohmmeter reading indicates an open winding. The winding is shorted if the meter reading is below the specified resistance. Most primary windings have a resistance of 0.5 to 2 ohms, but the exact manufacturer's specifications must be compared to the meter readings.
  • To check the secondary winding, calibrate the meter on the X1,000 scale and connect it from the coil's secondary terminal to one of the primary terminals.
f22-40.gif

Oct 30, 2009 | Chevrolet Impala Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1996 Dodge Avanger ES- no spark. V6 2.5L


First check the primary (12 v ) to the coil.Next the coil center wire must have a high voltage spark to the distributor cap, if not then your coil is the problem.If you have a good sharp spark from the coil proceed to check the distributor,capacitator,rotor, points (or electronic ignition.You check the spark by having someone crank the engine while you hold the wire far enough away for the spark to jump to ground.Be careful as this is high voltage like a stun gun.Good Luck.

Sep 29, 2009 | 1996 Dodge Avenger

5 Answers

1995 dodge dakota 2wd 3.9 no spark to plugs,or coil,orfuelpump


First of all let's explain how the spark gets to the plugs. There is a crankshaft position sensor and a cam sensor. They are what determines when to fire the coils and injectors. The crank sensor is located on the passenger side on top of the bellhousing, the cam sensor is the pickup plate in the distributor. As the engin turns the send refernece pulses to the computer which grounds and ungrounds the ignition coil causing it to discharge and send voltager from the secondary coil wire to the center tower in the distributor cap. The rotor button recieves the voltage and distributes it to the 6 towers (1 for each cylinder) If you say you're getting spark from the rotor that tells me the primary side of the ignition system is working, and the secondary side is working into the distributor cap. I'd check for spark out of the plug wires at the plugs. Pull a wire and insert a #2 phillips screwdriver into it, hol the shaft of the screwdriver aprox 1/8"(no more) from the exaust manifold and observe the spark as someone turns over the engine. You should see a nice blue spark. If theres spark, spray a little gum cutter in the throttle body an crank it, if it fires you have a fuel problem. Install a fuel pressure gauge on the schrader valve on the fuel rail and observe it as you crank it. If theres no fuel pressure maks sure there's fuel in the tank, if so climb underneath and beat on the bottom of the tank with a rubber hammer, the pump may be going bad, sometimes you can jar them and make them run.

Aug 24, 2009 | 1995 Dodge Dakota

2 Answers

Weak spark + 1988 ford bronco


check the voltage of the b+ terminal of the ignition coil (primary side) with a cheap multimeter while cranking. low voltage to the primary will cause low voltage on the secondary. also recheck all ground paths from the ignition module. ensure good connection from coil to module. note: new parts are not "known good parts" until it runs.--> IG.MOD.

Dec 17, 2008 | 1994 Ford Bronco

Not finding what you are looking for?
1994 Nissan Altima Logo

396 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Nissan Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

60667 Answers

Phil Lovisek
Phil Lovisek

Level 3 Expert

705 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

21936 Answers

Are you a Nissan Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...