Making sound when the wheel turns sharp slowly....
My car is Accord
06--4 cylinders and the mileage is around 17,000 miles. Every time I turn the wheel into a parking space and I hear the squealing sound on either left or right turn. Sometimes but not always, I couldn't hear it if the air conditioning is off. I've wondered
since my car is considering new and having some problems at this early stage
already? One more thing, everytime I hit the brake and hear some
screeching noise and the brake pads are looking as good as new. Any comments, suggestion, thanks.
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Re: making sound when the wheel turns sharp slowly....
Check your power steering fluid level if it's low refill it and see if you still hear the noise then take it to honda and have them find and repair the leak. the brakes are screeching like that cuz you may have had to make a quick stop in the past and it glazed the pads by over heating them, it should go away but if you are concerned you can always get a brake inspection
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You need to check that the timing belt is infact ok, they can easily strip teeth off and they look ok but don't turn the cam/crank as they should, Remove the timing belt cover and put a socket on the end of the crankshaft, slowly turn it out checking that the cam shaft is moving as well, Next remove the rocker cover and make sure the cam shaft is intact.
Hi Wendy Ann, Hard to give an exact diagnosis when I can not hear the noise myself. Generally, a bad CV joint will make a clicking sound when you turn a corner. From what you describe, it sounds like you've been ignoring the problem for some time. Due to the mileage on your car, I would recommend that you change both front half axle assemblies. [There are two CV joints/boots on each half axle] This is a common problem on front wheel drive cars.
Section 06-06: Hydraulic Brake System
1992 Festiva Workshop Manual
GENERAL SERVICE OPERATIONS
Read Hydraulic System Bleeding General Information.
Clean all dirt from the master cylinder filler cap.
Fill the master cylinder with the specified brake fluid.
During the bleeding operation do not allow the master cylinder to run dry.
If the master cylinder is known or suspected to contain air it must be bled before the wheel cylinders or calipers.
To bleed the master cylinder, loosen the front line fitting and have an assistant push the brake pedal slowly through its full travel. While the assistant holds the pedal, tighten the brake line fitting. After the line fitting is tightened, the assistant may release the brake pedal. Repeat this procedure on the rear brake line. Repeat the entire process several times to ensure all air has been removed from the master cylinder.
Remove the bleeder screw cap from the appropriate rear wheel cylinder.
Position a box end wrench on the bleeder fitting.
Attach a rubber hose to the bleeder fitting.
The hose has to fit snugly around the bleeder fitting.
Submerge the free end of the hose in a container partially filled with brake fluid.
Loosen the bleeder fitting approximately three quarters of a turn.
Have an assistant push the brake pedal slowly through its full travel and hold it there.
Close the bleeder fitting.
Have the assistant release the brake pedal.
Repeat Steps 9 through 12 until air bubbles cease to appear at the submerged end of the bleeder hose.
When the fluid entering the bottle is completely free of bubbles, tighten the bleeder screw, remove the bleeder hose, and install the bleeder screw cap.
Repeat Steps 5 through 14 at the appropriate diagonal front caliper.
Check the master cylinder fluid level.
If necessary fill it to the correct level with the specified brake fluid.
Check pedal feel. If the pedal remains spongy, repeat the bleeding process or, if necessary, refer to Diagnosis and Testing in Section 06-00.
This sounds like it should be a warranty issue due to the year of the vehicle and the mileage.. It sounds like a bearing or the universal joint in the steering column is worn prematurely. I am assuming the noise is coming from the steering column and not from one or both of the half shafts on your front axle. There is a chance the noise could be from the canceling mechanism for the turn signal, but I think it would be worth having it looked at by your dealer. Hope that helps.
Make sure the air filter is clean. Have a diagnostic scan done to the engine to see if there are any trouble codes or issues that would reduce your gas mileage. You are getting around 11 or 12 miles to the gallon, which isn't very good. But, judging by the low amount of miles on the car, you apparently do all your driving in traffic, and short distances with a lot of stop and go. If you let the engine warm up for long periods of time, especially in cold weather, that will drop your mileage considerably. Letting a car warm up for 10 or 15 minutes in the winter gets you 0 miles per gallon for that amount of time. Add all these factors up, and figure in the poor quality of today's fuel, 12 miles per gallon is not too far off from what you should be getting. If you have the v6 engine, your mileage was probably around 15mpg when the car was new. Now if you were to take your car on a road trip where you could drive a long distance with the cruise control set on 65mph, you would probably get around 18mpg.
Sounds like the ignition switch is failing. Tires come in different composites for short or longer life. Cheaper tires, poor alignment and driving styles can cause early wear where as high mileage tires and easy driving with a good 4 wheel alignment can last sometimes upwards of 100,000 miles. service manuals are available online or at you local auto parts store for around $25.
If your "stock" 97 Accord is a base model then it has 14" tires & wheels. If your idea of fun is zoom-zoom around turns & quick lane changes on the highway then switching to a 16" low profile tire & wheel combo will make you smile a little more. 205/55R16 is a good popular conversion. Your budget will be dented about $800-$1200 If your idea of fun is stomp the gas & go then talk to an engine guru
Audi 4 cylinder engines must have timing belt replaced as soon as 75,00 miles but no later than 105,000 miles. When doing job properly the mechanics should be replacing belt, tensioners, rollers, waterpump, thermostat and gasket. Average price would be around $900-$1200 US dollars.