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Re: procedure to replace rear bearing (outer)
1- remove the wheel.
2-remove the drum brake if it is tight relece the hand brake also loose brake adjusment.
3- remove brake pipe and hand brake connections.
4-on the back you can see 4nuts where barke housing fitted to the exle.
5- dont remove brake shoes.
6-pull the housing from the exle .
after all that remove the housing carefully hold your two hand both sides now you get out all assemply put on the work bench you need specila puller to remove the bearing the brearing is in the back look the front side of the drave shaft the end of the brake housing.
when you remove the old one put new one use the hydrolic pressure.
check the oil seal the end of the exle.
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To replace the throw-out bearing, you need to remove the transmission from the truck. It's not a hard job, but very labor intensive, and you'll need some help (unless you're really well equipped with transmission jacks, etc). Invest $20 or so in a repair manual (Haynes, Chilton, etc) for your vehicle, and it will provide step by step procedures to remove the transmission.
Once the transmission is out, simply remove the throw-out bearing from the clutch release arm, and put the new one on. Then reinstall the transmission.
Call Kia with your VIN to make sure yours wasn't affected by the recall. You may be able to have that rear bearing replaced for free at Kia.
HUBCAP & OUTER BEARING REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE: 1. Remove the two (2) cross-tip locating screws on the brake drum.
2. Remove the brake drum.
3. Remove cotter pin and cover set.
4. Remove nut, claw washer, outer bearing and hub assembly.
5. Inspect inner bearing area in both hubs for any sign of moisture, corrosion, grease discoloration or contamination. If "yes" discard entire hub and replace with new assembly. If "no" proceed with outer bearing replacement below: 6. Carefully remove the outer bearing race from the hub. If the hub assembly is damaged then replace the hub assembly as a complete unit. (If inner seal is damaged while removing the outer race replace with new seal.)
7. Clean all contaminated grease from outer bearing cavity of the hub.
8. Install a new outer race into the hub using an appropriate race installation tool.
9. Apply grease MS511-33 WBG2 or equivalent to the hub assembly and the new bearing(s) especially to the shaded areas.
10. Install hub assembly, new pre-greased outer bearing and new claw washer on spindle. (Or alternatively, install entire new hub assembly, as supplied). Ensure bearings are properly seated then tighten hub/spindle nut, torque nut to 20-25 lb-ft (27-33 Nm.) Verify hub spins freely without signs of binding or excessive play.
11. Install new cover set and cotter pin; never reuse the old cotter pin.
12. Install new hub cap with Loctite # 5910(TM) or equivalent sealant to prevent moisture intrusion.
13. Install the rear brake drum using tapered locating screws.
14. Install rear wheels and torque lug nuts to proper specification. (65-79 lb-ft) (88-108 Nm, 9-11 kgm)
To replace hub/bearings on a Chevy sprint, Do all the obvious things; raise car, etc.etc. with the wheel off, remove caliper and support with wire, string. remove strut bolts, outer tie-rod bolt and tie-rod, remove ball-joint bolt, you should be able to tilt the knuckle out of the way enough to drive out the ball-joint stud (o install reverse the removal instructions. I have owned and self repaired a total of five sprints.
If you have ABS then the wheel bears are not replaceable, and the entire hub needs to be replaced as a unit. The OEM part # is 4340250G11
If you do not have ABS then they are replaceable. The inner bearing is part # 0926225061, and the outer bearing is part # 0926220069.
The rear wheel bearings are pressed in the brake drum with a spacer in between.
Remove the rear brake drum and place it on a work surface.
Tap out the opposite side with a screwdriver/punch and a hammer. (i.e. tap out the inner bearing when the outside of the brake drum is facing you, and tap out the outer bearing when the inside/brae shoe side of the drum is facing you)
Tap in the new bearings making sure that the sealed sides are facing out.
yes, the rear is much different...you can get good help on the ford forums, you can downld help guides online at autozone.com ...join up to access their repair guides...its fee and safe...there are other auto pts houses that offer this service....
don't have topaz. maybe escort will help guide you.
Section 04-02: Suspension and Wheel Hubs, Rear
1996 Escort, Tracer Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly
NOTE: Wheel bearings are not serviceable and should therefore be replaced as an assembly with the wheel hub (1104).
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
Remove the hub grease cap (1131) from the wheel hub.
If equipped with disc brakes, remove the rear disc brake caliper (2552) and rear disc brake rotor (2C026). Refer to Section 06-04 for the removal procedure.
If equipped with drum brakes, remove the two brake drum screws and the brake drum (1126).
Unstake the rear axle wheel hub retainer (4B477) securing the wheel hub to the rear wheel spindle (4A013). Remove and discard the rear axle wheel hub retainer.
You should be ok replacing the outer seal but check for bearing play or fautly outer wheel bearing before you disassemble. If to much lateral movement in axle shaft it will take out your new seal rather quickley.
The best thing to do is call a "mechanic buddy" and have a case of beer on stanby. But if your determined to do it, than at least get a haynes or chiltons book to help with exploded view of the parts breakdown. I would start by jacking the rear end on stands and taking off the tires, the rear brakes and rear bearing assemblies. The cv shafts line up like a regular driveshaft on a rwd, so make sure you don't whack any of the splines up around the edges where they meet the transaxle. I will tell you if you're not comfortable with doing your own brakes, you will do yourself a galactic amount of good by finding someone who is to help you out.