The front caliper retaining bolt can't be removed; when pressure is applied with a wrench it turns, but does not loosen or tighten. When the metal shim which is closest to the head of the bolt is held tight, the bolt still can't be removed or tightened.

5.2 liter V8 engine?

Remove the four front skid-plate bolts holding the front skid plate, using a ratchet and socket. Remove the skid plate.

Pull the plastic splash shield away from the vehicle, loosening the retaining clips. Remove the splash shield.

Place an oil drain container under the oil pan. Loosen the drain fitting with a wrench until oil drains from the pan. When oil is done draining, tighten the drain fitting.

Disconnect the electrical connections running to the starter motor. Remove the starter motor mounting bolts with a ratchet and socket, then remove the starter motor.

Remove the oxygen sensor socket from the exhaust pipe, using a wrench.

Remove the exhaust manifold bolts where the exhaust meets the manifold on both sides, using a ratchet and socket

Place an jack under the transmission to support it. Remove the pressure on the transmission crossmember.

Remove the bolts that hold the transmission crossmember in place, using a ratchet and socket. Then remove the crossmember. Place a jack stand under the transmission to keep the transmission from falling off the jack if hit. Once removed, the exhaust will hang down, allowing enough room to remove the oil pan.

Disconnect the oil level sensor and the nut retaining the transmission cooling lines, using a wrench.

Remove the oil pan bolts with a ratchet and socket, then remove the oil pan and gasket.

Clean the mounting surfaces of the new oil pan and engine block. Make sure what ever you use to clean the surfaces dosn't gouge the metal.

Place a coat of RTV (gasket) sealer on the engine block where the pan will meet the rear main cap.

Place the new gasket on the pan and push the new oil pan into place. Finger tighten the oil pan mounting bolts to hold it in place. Tighten the bolts with a torque wrench to 18 ft-lbs. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE BOLTS! Doing so will cause the gasket to deform and create leaks!

Connect the oil level sensor and the nut retaining the transmission cooling lines, using a wrench.

Place the exhaust back into position and replace the transmission crossmember bolts and crossmember with a ratchet and socket.

Remove the jack supporting the transmission.

Connect the exhaust back to both sides of the manifold, tightening the bolts with a torque wrench to 20 ft-lbs.

Attach the oxygen sensor socket to the exhaust pipe with a wrench.

Replace the starter motor by installing the starter motor mounting bolts with a ratchet and socket. Connect the electrical connections to the starter motor that were disconnected during removal.

Push the retaining clips on the plastic splash shield into the appropriate retaining clip holes.

Replace the front skid plate by replacing the four front skid plate bolts with a ratchet and socket.

Fill the engine with 5 quarts of oil. Make sure to check the level on the dipstick to find the exact level when filling.

. Place a set of wheel chocks behind the rear wheels of the Previa. Lift the front of the automobile on the side that you are starting with. Place a jack stand under the Previa and raise it to the frame of the vehicle. Remove the wheel using the lug wrench to loosen the lug nuts.
2Remove the brake caliper by loosening the retaining pins with a socket and ratchet. Secure the caliper out of the way using a wire tie. Do not allow it to hang by the hose. Remove the brake rotor from the wheel. Disconnect the ABS sensor from the strut if the Previa has anti-lock brakes.
Sponsored Links
Bridgestone PromotionGet Either A Reward Card Or Kindle When You Buy 4 Select Ecopia Tires.BridgestoneTire.com/Promo3Remove the nut securing the brake hose bracket to the strut with a wrench. Disconnect the stabilizer bar link using a wrench. Loosen the two lower bolts on the strut assembly with a socket and ratchet but do not remove them. Remove the cotter pin from the tie-rod end using the pliers.
4Remove the castellated nut with a wrench. Separate the tie-rod end from the wheel knuckle. Remove the top three bolts from the strut using a socket and ratchet. Access the bolts from inside the engine compartment on the wheel well. Remove the bottom bolts and take the strut from under the Previa.
5Place the spring compressor on the coil spring and tighten it enough that the pressure is taken off the spring seats. Remove the center nut from the strut shaft using a wrench. Remove the coil spring cap, coil spring and spring seats from the strut. Put the coil spring on the new strut along with the spring seats and cap.
6Install the center nut and tighten it with a wrench. Place the strut on the Previa and loosely install the two bottom bolts. Connect the top three bolts and tighten them with a socket and ratchet. Tighten the bottom bolts with a socket and ratchet. Connect the tie rod to the wheel knuckle. Install the castellated nut and tighten it with a socket and ratchet.
7Insert a new cotter pin in the tie-rod end and spread it open with the pliers. Connect the stabilizing bar link. Tighten the bolt with a wrench. Connect the brake hose bracket to the strut and tighten the nut with a wrench. Connect the ABS sensor if the Previa has antilock brakes.
8Put the brake rotor on the wheel assembly. Cut the wire tie securing the caliper using the pliers. Place the caliper in the mounting cradle and tighten the locking pins with a socket and ratchet. Install the wheel on the Previa. Tighten the lug nuts with a lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the Previa. Lower the vehicle to the ground.

You have to remove the brake caliper. Jack the vehicle up and support it. Remove the tire. On teh back side there are 2 retaining bolts that require a Hex wrench to loosen and withdraw them. They normally will not come all the way out but will come free releasing the caliper. Lift the caliper off the disc and remove the inside pad. Use a caliper compressor and open the caliper all the way and them remove the compressor and the outside pad. Put the new pads in place and replace the caliper making sure to tighten down those two retaining bolts. replace the tire and lower the vehicle then repeat the process for the other side. If you haven't turned the rotors in the past 3 years you should have those turned while you have this taken apart. If you remove the disc you will have to remove the bearings and the retaining nuts, make sure you clean those completely and repack them in fresh grease. Pay attention to the torque you use when you put those nuts in back, if you get them too tight you will have problems.

Use a wrench to loosen the bolt and nut assembly that secures the negative battery cable to the battery, then lift the cable away from the battery.

2 Apply the parking brake and raise the front of the car with a jack, then lower the vehicle onto two jack stands. Place one jack stand on each side of the front of the vehicle, under the frame.

3 Access the starter from underneath the passenger's side of the Falcon. The starter is between the engine and the transmission and looks like a large coffee can.

4 Remove the battery cable from the side of the starter. The cable slides over a threaded stud and is secured with a single nut. Remove the nut with a wrench, then lift the cable away from the starter.

5 Remove the two flywheel-to-starter retaining bolts with a wrench, then pull the starter toward the front of the vehicle to remove it.

6 Position the replacement starter against the flywheel housing, then install and tighten the two flywheel-to-starter retaining bolts with a wrench.

7 Slide the battery cable onto the threaded stud on the side of the starter, then install and tighten the retaining nut with a wrench to secure the cable in place.

8 Lift the vehicle with the floor jack, remove the jack stands, and lower the Falcon to the ground.

9 Position the negative battery cable onto the battery terminal, then tighten the cable into place with a wrench.

Slightly loosen tire lug nuts, raise car with jack, remove lug nuts and wheel, remove caliper bolts from brake calipers. Open cap on brake fluid reservoir, place folded towel over top of reservoir and set cap on the paper towel to hold it in place, use a large 9-inch C-clamp to squeez in on front brake pad about 1/8 inch. REmove caliper from rotor. Hang caliper from shock coils with strong bungie strap so there is no pressure on the brake line. Remove bolts from caliper plate and remove caliper plate. Using oversized phillips screwdriver end attached to a 3/8 inch flex wrench, you will carefully put light pressure in a counter-clockwise direction to remove the brass screws and tap the flex wrench at the same time with a large 3-pound hammer driving the screwdriver end into the top of the screw as you put more pressure on the wrench to loosen the screw. This is about the only way to remove brass screws without "damaging them" and they are a dealer item not found in parts store. There should be two screws holding the rotor on. Then spray liquid wrench or penetrating oil into all holes on rotor toward center to help dissolve rust. Wait three minutes then tap rear of rotor lightly with large hammer taking care NOT to hit the thin metal rotor shield. Eventually, this tapping force will loosen the rotor. Use same technique of tapping the flex wrench when applying pressure to wrench to tighten the brass screws when replacing the rotors.

No, but I would replace the rotors. Turning them usually winds up getting them warped as soon as they heat up and/or you hit a puddle of water..also, you will need a torque wrench and standard automotive tools, Jack and stands and a vice..

1 Place the Transfer shift in the 2H position.
Raise and support the front of the vehicle safely on jackstands.
2 Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
3 Loosen the hub to rotor retainer bolts.
4 Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts and carefully remove the caliper (along with the brake pads) from the rotor. Do not disconnect the brake line. 5 Secure the caliper out of the way with the flexible line still connected.

Once the hub/rotor is removed from the vehicle the wheel bearings may be cleaned and repacked or the bearings and races may be replaced. For more information, please refer to the wheel bearing procedures in General Information & Maintenance of this manual.

6 Remove the hub nut using hub wrench J-29020-A or equivalent.
7 Remove the hub cap assembly retainer bolts.
8 Remove the spindle nut, washers, and other components. Remove the hub/rotor, being careful not to drop the outer wheel bearings. As the hub/rotor is pulled forward, the outer wheel bearings will often fall forward.
9 Once the hub/rotor is removed, remove the retainer bolts securing the rotor and hub together. Inspect the hub and replace if needed.

To install:
1 With the rotor secured in a vise, attach the wheel hub to the rotor using the retainer bolts. Tighten the bolts to 47-58 ft. lbs. (61-75 Nm). Apply 2.12 oz. (60 gm) of grease to the hub before installing.
2 Carefully install the wheel hub/rotor over the spindle.
3 Install the bearings washers and other components. 4 Position the lock washer so the hub cap assembly bolt holes line up properly.
5 Install the spindle washer and nut and secure using hub wrench J-29020-A or equivalent. Preload the bearing to 3.31 lbs. (1.5 kg).
6 Install the inner cam and any shims. Install the hub cap assembly and secure in place with retainer bolts. 7 Tighten grade M8 bolts to 17-22 ft. lbs. (22-29 Nm), tighten grade M10 bolts to 40-47 ft. lbs. (52-61 Nm).
8 Install the brake caliper.
9 Install the tire and wheel assembly.
10 Remove the supports and carefully lower the vehicle.

you can buy remanufactured at parts store or buy used from car-part.com. page with * is lowest cost.

It's a pretty big job for a novice.

here's 96 taurus steps with 3.8l engine. don't have 94. should be similar

Removal
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Tool Number Description T94T-6000-AH Exhaust Connector Holder Tool T57L-500-B Bench Mounted Holding Fixture

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
   

1. Position steering wheel one-half turn to right and lock wheel.
   

1. Position steering column boot out of the way. Remove pinch bolt retaining steering column intermediate shaft coupling to power steering short rack and separate.
   

1. Disconnect PCV vent tube and vacuum supply hose from clean air tube. Loosen two hose clamps retaining clean air tube and position out of the way.
   

1. Disconnect power steering auxiliary actuator and power steering pressure switch.
   

1. Remove two heat shield pushpin retainers from power steering hose bracket and remove heat shield.
   

1. Remove one retaining bolt from left turn pressure hose bracket.
   

1. Position drain pan under steering gear.
   

1. Remove power steering pressure and return hoses from fittings on power steering rack. Position both hoses out of the way. Disconnect rear HO2S connector at steering rack and position out of the way.
   

1. Partially raise vehicle.
   

1. Remove front wheel and tire assemblies.
   

1. Remove LH upper stabilizer bar link retaining nut and position link out of the way.
   

1. Loosen LH tie-rod jam nut. Remove cotter pin and tie-rod retaining nut at lower control arm. Using tie-rod end separator or equivalent, remove tie-rod from control arm and from steering gear.
   

1. Loosen RH tie-rod jam nut. Remove cotter pin and tie-rod retaining nut at lower control arm. Using tie-rod end separator or equivalent, remove tie-rod from control arm and from steering gear.
   

1. Raise vehicle.
   

1. Remove drain pan.
   

1. Remove two steering gear retaining nuts at front subframe.
   

1. Install Exhaust Connector Holder Tool T94T-6000-AH on flex tube.
   

1. Remove bolts, nuts, and gasket from where flex tube and converter Y-pipe connect. Separate tube from pipe.
   

1. Position Rotunda Power Train Lift 014-00765 or equivalent with wood blocks approximately 1016 mm (40 inches) in length (secured to lift) under subframe and raise.
   

1. Remove two rear subframe retaining bolts and lower subframe approximately 102 mm (4 inches).
   

1. Rotate power steering rack to clear bolts from subframe and remove assembly through LH wheel well.
   

1. Remove two bolts retaining power steering hose bracket to short rack and remove bracket.
   

1. Mount steering gear assembly in Bench Mounted Holding Fixture T57L-500-B.
   

1. Remove four clamps retaining bellows to steering gear and tie-rods. Remove bellows and power steering gear rack tube.
   

1. Position rack and pinion steering gear so several steering gear teeth are exposed. Hold steering gear with adjustable wrench on end teeth only, while loosening inner tie-rods. Remove tie-rods from steering rack. Remove steering rack from bench-mounted holding fixture.
   

Installation

1. Mount new steering gear assembly in Bench Mounted Holding Fixture T57L-500-B.
   

1. Position rack and pinion steering gear so several steering gear teeth are exposed. Hold steering gear with adjustable wrench on end teeth only, while tightening inner tie-rods. Tighten to 90-110 Nm (66-81 lb-ft).
   

1. Apply Steering Gear Grease C3AZ-19518-A meeting Ford specification ESB-M1C119-A to groove in connecting rods where tie-rod bellows clamp to front wheel spindle tie-rod and uniformly apply to inner diameter of bellows. Install bellows and gear rack tube onto short rack.
   

1. Install new inner and outer bellows clamps.
   

1. Remove steering gear from Bench Mounted Holding Fixture and place on bench.
   

1. Install power steering hose bracket and retaining bolts at top of steering gear. Tighten to 9-12 Nm (80-106 lb-in).
   

1. Install steering gear retaining bolts in steering gear housing and install short rack through LH wheel well.
   

1. Position steering rack and retaining bolts through subframe. Raise powertrain lift until rear subframe contacts body and install retaining bolts. Tighten to 135-195 Nm (100-144 lb-ft). Lower and remove powertrain lift from vehicle.
   

1. Install power steering short rack-to-subframe nuts. Tighten to 97-132 Nm (72-97 lb-ft).
   

1. Install new gasket, bolts and nuts at converter Y-pipe and flex tube. Tighten to 34-46 Nm (26-34 lb-ft).
   

1. Remove flex tube holder.
   

1. Partially lower vehicle.
   

1. Install LH jam nut and outer tie-rod to inner tie-rod. Install tie-rod to steering knuckle. Install retaining nut. Tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). Install new cotter pin.
   

1. Install LH stabilizer bar link and retaining nut. Tighten to 76.5-103.5 Nm (57-76 lb-ft).
   

1. Install RH jam nut and outer tie-rod to inner tie-rod. Install tie-rod to steering knuckle. Install retaining nut. Tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). Install new cotter pin.
   

1. Install tire and wheel assemblies. Tighten to 115-142 Nm (85-105 lb-ft).
   

1. Lower vehicle.
   

1. Remove old Teflon® O-rings from pressure and return hoses. Install new Teflon® O-rings on pressure and return hoses.
   

1. Install power steering pressure hose and return hose to fittings on power steering short rack. Tighten to 33-41 Nm (24-30 lb-ft).
   

1. Install one retaining bolt to left-turn pressure hose bracket. Tighten to 9-12 Nm (80-106 lb-in).
   

1. Connect rear HO2S connectors, power steering auxiliary actuator, and power steering pressure switch electrical connectors.
   

1. Position heat shield at power steering hose bracket and install pushpin retainers.
   

1. Install clean air tube, connect PCV vent tube and vacuum supply hose, and tighten hose clamps. Tighten to 2-3 Nm (18-27 lb-in).
   

1. Install steering column intermediate shaft coupling to power steering short rack and install pinch bolt. Tighten to 41-51 Nm (30-38 lb-ft). Position steering column boot over steering rack.
   

1. Fill and purge system.
   

1. Check operation.
   

1. Adjust only toe for alignment. Refer to Section 04-00 .
   

1. Step 1 Remove ½ of the brake fluid from the master cylinder with the syringe and replace the cover. Discard the fluid.
   
2. Step 2
3. Remove the front hubcaps and loosen the wheel nuts using the lug wrench, but do not remove the nuts.
   
4. Step 3 Lift the front end of the LeSabre with the floor jack and secure safely onto the jack stands.
   
5. Step 4 Remove the wheel nuts and wheels. Screw one wheel nut back onto a wheel stud hand tight to retain the rotor away from the caliper assembly.
   
6. Step 5 Place a large C-clamp over the left inboard caliper housing and the outboard pad, and tighten to compress the caliper piston.
   
7. Step 6 Remove the two caliper guide bolts using a box end wrench. Remove the caliper and secure it to the vehicle chassis with mechanic's wire or a metal hook.
   
8. Step 7 Remove the outboard pad from the caliper on the LeSabre first. Pry it off the outboard caliper housing using the screwdriver.
   
9. Step 8 Remove the inboard pad by lifting the retaining clips out of the caliper bore.
   
10. Step 9 Clean the surface of the caliper bridge that contacts the backing plate of the pads using a wire brush, and apply a thin coat of brake lubricant to the contact points. Be careful not to let the lubricant get onto the rotor.
    
11. Step 10 Install the new inboard brake pad and shim into the caliper piston bore by pressing the retaining clips into the bore until it locks into place.
    
12. Step 11 Install the outboard pad onto the caliper housing, making sure to align the retaining clips into the holes in the caliper. Use the screwdriver to convince the clips onto the caliper if necessary.
    
13. Step 12 Replace the caliper over the rotor.
    
14. Step 13 Clean off the surface of the guide bolts and apply a light coat of lubricant to the smooth surface of them. Align them properly through the rubber boots and bolt the caliper to the knuckle. Tighten the guide bolts using the wrench. Remove the wheel nut from the wheel stud securing the rotor.
    
15. Step 14 Replace the wheel and wheel nuts. Tighten the wheel nuts snugly, and re-tighten them (with a torque wrench is recommended set at 100 foot pounds) once the LeSabre is back on the ground.
    
16. Step 15 Repeat steps 5 through 14 for the right side.
    
17. Step 16 Pump the brake pedal when you're through to seat the new pads against the rotors, then check and add new brake fluid to the master cylinder.
    

Hub and Bearing Assembly
CAUTION: Do not begin this removal procedure unless the following parts are available:

• A new front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477) (Step 1).
• A new inboard halfshaft joint stub shaft circlip.

Once removed, these parts must not be reused during assembly. Their torque holding ability or retention capability is diminished during removal.
Removal

1. Turn ignition switch to the OFF position and place the steering column in the unlock position.
   

1. CAUTION: Discard the front axle wheel hub retainer. It is a torque prevailing design and cannot be reused. If loosened, the retainer must be removed and a new one installed.
   Remove and discard front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477).
   

1. Raise vehicle on hoist.
   

1. NOTE: Make sure steering column is in the unlocked position, and do not use a hammer to separate tie rod end (3A130) from the front wheel knuckle (3K185) . Use extreme care not to damage boot seal.
   
   Remove cotter pin from tie rod end stud and remove slotted nut. Discard cotter pin and nut.
   

1. Using Tie Rod End Remover 211-001 (TOOL-3290-D) or equivalent and Tie Rod End Remover Adapter 211-087 (T81P-3504-W), remove tie rod end from front wheel knuckle.
   

1. CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage boot seal. Do not use power tools to remove the nut, or bearing and seal damage will result. Loosen the nut first, then remove nut from stud using the hex hold feature.
   For SHO vehicles, remove vinyl cover from upper link stud.
   Remove stabilizer bar link (5K484) from front shock absorber (18124) .
   

1. Remove disc brake caliper (2B120) and support with wire to obtain working space. Do not allow disc brake caliper to separate from the front disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B292) to prevent contamination of the disc brake guide pin journals. Do not allow disc brake caliper to hang from front brake hose (2078) . Remove front disc brake rotor (1125) . Remove front disc brake rotor from wheel hub (1104) by pulling it off the lug bolt (1107). If front disc brake rotor is difficult to remove from front wheel knuckle , strike front disc brake rotor sharply between lug bolt with a rubber or plastic hammer.
   If front disc brake rotor will not pull off, apply Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor D7AZ-19A501-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M99C56-A to inboard and outboard rotor/hub mating surfaces. Install 3-Jaw Puller 205-D027 (D80L-1013-A) or equivalent and remove front disc brake rotor by pulling on front disc brake rotor outside diameter and pushing on hub center. If excessive force is required for removal, check front disc brake rotor for lateral runout prior to installation. Refer to Section 06-00.
   

1. Remove anti-lock brake sensor mounting bolt and front brake anti-lock sensor (2C204) .
   

1. Remove and discard lower ball joint nut. Using Remover Adapter 211-211 (T96P-3010-A1), separate lower ball joint from front suspension lower arm (3078) .
   

1. Using Rotunda Spring Compressor 014-00781 or equivalent, compress front coil spring (5310) until lower ball joint clears front suspension lower arm .
   

1. Using Front Hub Remover/Replacer 204-069 (T81P-1104-C), Two Stud Adapter 205-237 (T86P-1104-A1), Metric Hub Remover Adapter 204-085 (T83P-1104-BH) and Front Hub Installer 204-067 (T81P-1104-A), press front wheel driveshaft joint (3B414) from wheel hub . Wire front wheel driveshaft joint to body to maintain a level position.
   
   
   
   
   
   Item Part Number Description 1 204-085 (T83P-1104-BH) Metric Hub Remover Adapter 2 204-067 (T81P-1104-A) Front Hub Replacer 3 — Turn Wrench Counterclockwise 4 — Hold Wrench Stationary While Turning Other Wrench 5 204-069 (T81P-1104-C) Front Hub Remover/Replacer 6 204-067 (T81P-1104-A)1 Two Stud Adapter A — Make Sure Metric Hub Remover Adapter 204-085 (T83P-1104-BH) is Fully Threaded onto 1107 and is Positioned Opposite the Two Stud Adapter 205-237 (T86P-1104-A1)

1. Remove and discard three hub and bearing retainer bolts from front wheel knuckle .
   

1. NOTE: Wheel hub is not pressed into front wheel knuckle . Do not use slide hammer to remove a stuck wheel hub . Do not strike back of inner bearing race. Use of these methods will damage bearing internal parts.
   
   NOTE: If bearing carrier is corroded to front wheel knuckle , apply Rust Penetrant and Inhibitor D7AZ-19A501-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M99C56-A to the inboard and outboard wheel hub/knuckle mating surface and allow to soak.
   
   Remove wheel hub from front wheel knuckle .
   
   
   
   
   

Installation

1. NOTE: If wheel hub is damaged or if any end play is detectable, replace wheel hub . End play is not adjustable. If wheel hub is disassembled, the assembly must be replaced.
   
   Remove all foreign material from knuckle bearing bore for correct seating of new wheel hub.
   

1. Lightly lubricate mating surfaces of bearing corner and front wheel knuckle.
   

1. CAUTION: Knuckle bore must be clean enough to allow wheel hub to be completely seated by hand. Do not press or draw wheel hub into place.
   Position wheel hub in front wheel knuckle . Install three new hub and bearing retaining bolts. Tighten to 83-107 Nm (61-78 lb-ft).
   

1. Push front wheel driveshaft joint into wheel hub . Hand start front wheel hub retainer.
   

1. Slowly release Rotunda Spring Compressor 014-00781 or equivalent while guiding lower ball joint into front suspension lower arm .
   

1. Install new lower ball joint nut. Tighten to 68-92 Nm (50-67 lb-ft).
   

1. Install tie rod end into front wheel knuckle . Install new slotted nut and tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). If necessary advance nut to install a new cotter pin.
   

1. CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage boot seal. Do not use power tools to tighten nut or bearing and seal damage will result. Install nut using hex hold feature to prevent the stud from rotating.
   Install stabilizer bar link to front shock absorber . Install stabilizer bar link nut. Tighten to 77-103 Nm (57-75 lb-ft). For SHO vehicles, install stud cover.
   

1. NOTE: Remove rust from the rotor and hub mating surfaces with a medium abrasive pad.
   
   Install front disc brake rotor and disc brake caliper . Tighten caliper anchor bracket bolts to 88-118 Nm (65-87 lb-ft).
   

1. CAUTION: The front axle wheel hub retainer must be tightened to specification immediately during installation. If the retainer is not tightened immediately, the nylon lock will set incorrectly, leading to incorrect torque readings and bearing failure. Any front wheel hub retainer that is not immediately tightened to specification or is loosened must be removed and a new retainer installed.
   Install front axle wheel hub retainer . Tighten to 230-275 Nm (170-203 lb-ft).
   

1. Install wheel and tire. Tighten lug nuts (1012) to 115-142 Nm (85-104 lb-ft).
   

1. Lower vehicle.
   

1. Pump brake pedal prior to moving vehicle to position brake linings.
   

it is a 3/8 allen wrench