How do you get the Ranger Boat decal made by 3M Install on a window. The back plastic layer does not release the decal to the front paper layer? Sticker # RB911. Mar/sil

Window glass removal is not complicated but it usually costs you the skin off your knuckles. You will need a helper for this. I would suggest you buy some new 'push in' clips for the door panel, on a car of that age you will break some of them.
Try this method. Wind the window up to the half way point. Remove the door pull handle, the door release lever, the window winding handle and the locking lever trim cover. Remove the inside and outside trim strips that the glass sits between, (The bit you rest your elbow on when the window is open), as this make getting the glass out easier. Then remove the door card. You might need to use a Plastic trim tool for this to avoid breaking the 'push in' clips as you lever up around the edge of the panel. There should be a layer of plastic between the panel and the door which is a water proof layer protecting the trim panel. Remove it.
There will be a large unpainted part bolted in the middle of the door that the window winder sticks out from.
From this point get your helper to hold onto the glass. Undo the 4 retaining screws. Swing the front edge of this winder mechanism out towards you and slide it forwards to release the hook at the rear end of it. The winder mechanism is stuck in place with a waterproof sealant so you might need to Gently lever it to get it free. At this point you will need to 'wriggle' the whole mechanism forward and backwards to release it from the runner rails and out of the door. Once the mechanism is out, rotate the actual glass downwards towards the front of the car and the glass should slide up and out.
To refit the glass repeat this process in reverse.

Gel coat is associated with fibreglass construction - where the various layers of the construction are laid into the moulds from the outside inwards.
The gel coat is sprayed into the mould first, followed by decals and graphics and colour coats and then a layer or two of fine woven glass mat followed by several layers of coarse random glass mat.

When the fibreglass component is turned out of the mould the gel coat just needs denibbing and polishing for the finished item to have a durable high quality self-coloured finish.

Most fibreglass constructions are barely rigid enough for long term use and the gel coat often cracks at the points of greatest stress allowing water and discolouring agents to enter the construction through capillary action. Repairing and refinishing aged fibreglass has long been a challenge but less so since modern isocyanate cured lacquers arrived that could provide the near-durability of the original gelcoat.

Open the hood bring some paper towels their is a decal with this information and a lot more information about the vehicle .If you can't find that go to a ford dealer they will give you a print out of the routing .
Trust me these decals don't fall off my work truck is an 85 ranger with 6 hundred thousand miles on it and the decal is their

If by "welts" you mean some kind of plastic or rubber trim, clean area with 3M adhesive cleaner, then use 3M Black weather strip adhesive.

I can answer the signal problem it happened to me, i noticed that water corroded the front left passenger side bulb socket because it got splashed by water due to an opening in the fender plastic guard, i changed the light bulb and the socket than i taped the socket with a good weather proofing 3M Scotch 130C Linerless Rubber tape and a protective layer of ordinary electrical tape and 6 months later NO PROBLEMS, i've also covered the gap in the plastic fender splash guard

look under truck at drivers side door for the fuel lines. they will go into filter there and back out of filter there.you're looking for a round canister,you'll need to release the pressure by removing the gas acp also.there will be a plastic clip on both sides of the filter holding the fuel lines into the filter. pull those clips out with needle nose pliers, install the filter with the flow towards the front of motor, reinstall those clips unless new ones came with the new filter.keep in mind that you are under the truck looking up at filter, eye protection is a must!!!! hope this helps!!

we use paint restoring compound like t cut makes ya headlights look like new!! jason GTMOTORS

You have the transmission out and are trying to remove it from the slave cylinder right? Just pull straight out. It should pop free. It just has plastic tabs that hold it on.

Materials:

• Warm sunny day
• Tarp
• Large plastic garbage bag
• Undiluted Ammonia
• Windex (a glass cleaner)
• Paper towels
• Fine steel wool
• Razor blades

Tips:
The difficult thing about removing tint is that most film is constructed of two layers of tinted polyester. When you try to peel the film off the glass, the top layer will usually pull right off leaving the second layer behind. This second layer will not peel off, it will just flake and tear like a price tag.

Step 1:
To over come separation between layers you must soften the adhesive so that both layers peel at the same time. This is very important, if you peel the just the top layer, you may as well just use razor blades as there is no way to peel the second layer off without picking at it for a few hours. You MUST try to peel both layers at once.
NOTE:
You are more than likely to damage one or more of your defroster lines, when this happens, the cut line will not work anymore. Some cars have radio antennas mounted alongside the defrosters made of the same material. If you damage these, your radio antenna will not work! Be careful! Taking it to a tint shop to be done greatly increases the odds of saving the lines, but even a tint shop can not promise to save your lines, sometimes the film is just to far gone.

Used a better glue, 3m marine 5200 adhesive. Comes in black and white. Works really well.