Question about 2003 Ford Escape

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Won't Start my husband changed the plugs bc we had a misfire that kept getting worse. He then ran it down the road, ran fine, but then died. Towed home and started it a couple of time, after that it stopped starting, then eventually stopped cranking, and now nothing.

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  • Jeb Rogers Aug 12, 2008

    all censors are good and the battery has been charged, replaced, terminal ends cleaned, all the car has power but just wont turn over or start.

  • Jeb Rogers Aug 12, 2008

    These are all things that we have starter is good, the wiring had a couple shorts and those were fixed, still nothing

  • Jeb Rogers Aug 12, 2008

    we have done that three times at least. all colors match, no wires are touching other wire, everything getting power, at least as far as know from the plug wires to the coils, and to the starter

  • Jeb Rogers Aug 12, 2008

    Again we have checked that, there is 12 volts coming the battery, you can't even wiggle the terminal ends

  • Jeb Rogers Aug 12, 2008

    The battery was replaced with a new battery. The starter has been checked, it's good. When I say there is nothing that's what I mean. Past the electric gages coming on and the fuel pump kicking on there is nothing, not a click or a slow crank.

  • Jeb Rogers Aug 12, 2008

    how and where do you check ignition starter switch

  • Jeb Rogers Aug 12, 2008

    how and where do you find and test ignition starter switch

  • Jeb Rogers Aug 12, 2008

    is this nuetral/clutch safety switch the same as the ignition starter switch

  • Jeb Rogers Aug 12, 2008

    this is last bit of information with the websites were no help, thanks though

  • Jeb Rogers Aug 12, 2008

    this is last bit of information with the websites were no help, thanks though

  • Jeb Rogers Aug 12, 2008

    Thank you we will try this and let you know

  • Jeb Rogers Aug 12, 2008

    checked the ignition starter switch in steering column power reads out fine on DMM went back to starter solenoid has constant twelve from battery but nothing at any other posts could this be solenoid or something before it Thanks

  • Jeb Rogers Aug 13, 2008

    thanx a bunch for sticking with us on this prob, we have went 2 months with no car and have pulled our hair out. we will try changing the solenoid.

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9 Answers

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Same as here checked the starter, battery, cables, fuses, alarm and lastly when the AAA technician arrived and let him check it. Cause i requested a tow for my car to the auto repair shop he said its the ignition switch but i still have to find out since i am still debating if i am just going to buy a replacement switch and install it or take it to the shop and let them do the job... Any advice... Thanks...

Posted on Oct 04, 2013

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  • Check Your Fuses: Few cars have a fuse associated with the starting system, but before you go monkeying around with everything, check your fuses to be sure it's not that simple.
  • Battery Corrosion: Over time your battery connections can become dirty, or corroded. This corrosion breaks the connection your battery has with the rest of the car, and it won't start. Try cleaning your battery posts and try to start the car again.
  • Dead Battery: The most common reason your car won't start is a dead battery. If you have a battery tester that can measure cranking amps, test your battery to see if it's weak. If you can't test it yourself, you can test the battery indirectly by jump-starting the car. If it starts right away, your problem is most likely a dead battery. Replace the battery, and clean the battery connections to ensure good contact.

  • Bad Igntion Switch: If your battery checks out, but the starter is still silent, it may be a faulty ignition switch. Turn the key to the on position (not all the way to start). If the red warning lights on your dash don't light up (and your battery connections are clean), the ignition switch is bad. If they do light up, turn the key to the start position. The dash warning lights should turn off at this key position (most cars). If you're not sure, turn on the headlights. When you try to start the car, the lights should either dim (a lot) or turn off completely. If they do, your ignition switch should be ok. If not, the switch will need replacement.
  • Bad Starter Connection: Corrosion can not only keep your battery from connecting, it can affect any electrical component, especially the ones exposed to the elements like the starter. If you have a helper, you can test the connection by holding a circuit tester lead on the wire that engages the starter. This is the smaller of the two wires connected to the starter.
Have a friend turn the key and check the current. If you're getting current to the starter but it ain't spinning, it needs replacement. If your starter spins freely when you turn the key, the problem lies elsewhere. Now you begin to check the other systems that could keep it from firing up.


Posted on Aug 13, 2008

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Check Neutral Safety Switch/Clutch Safety Switch.
A neutral or clutch safety switch is used to disengage the electrical circuit from the ignition key to the starter motor as a safety device. Automati transmission vehicle gear selector needs to be either in park or neutral before the engine will crank. If the gear selector is in any other gear sections the engine will not crank over. A standard transmission vehicle clutch peddle needs to be fully depressed before the engine will crank over. To test this circuit a automotive test light is needed. Attach one end of the test light to engine ground and the other end at the starter trigger terminal of the starter solenoid. The test light should illuminate when the ignition switch is activated (crank engine over). If the test light illuminates the starter motor/solenoid has failed and needs to be replaced. If the test light does not illuminate suspect a neutral safety switch or clutch safety switch. A wiring diagram is needed to trace power from the ignition switch through the safety switch and down to the starter solenoid. Replace failed components as needed and recheck system.
Won't Start - c5c59b8.jpg

Posted on Aug 12, 2008

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Replacing the ignition switch would solve the problem.before replacing pls check if its working or not.

Posted on Aug 12, 2008

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This problem sounds dead on like a battery problem, or associated wiring with it.

Did you replace with a brand new battery?

It would be helpful if you could take it to a parts store, like Autozone, where they could perform a load test on the battery. They could also verify if the alternator was working.

If the battery is new, and you have full load to the starter, and the starter is not moving, then:

Your starter could be bad.

Could you explain what you hear when you have tried to engage the starter in the past?

Did you hear clicking sounds, or one click, or the engine turned real slow?

Thanks

Brian

Posted on Aug 12, 2008

  • Brian Berndt
    Brian Berndt Aug 12, 2008

    You may have a bad or out of alignment Neutral Safety Switch. This is located inside the shifter, and will not allow the engine to start when the car is in gear.



    I would check this next.



    Brian

  • Brian Berndt
    Brian Berndt Aug 13, 2008

    Whether or not the ESCAPE has a Neutral Safety Switch seems debatable....but ROCK AUTO sells two different brands of part for the 2003 Escape with an Automatic Transmission, and it is still a likely point of disconnect in your system.



    2003 FORD ESCAPE 3.0L 182cid V6 FI (1) : Electrical-Switch & Relay : Neutral Safety Switch



    STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # NS129 {NEUTRAL SAFETY/BACK-UP LIGHT SW.}
    with A.T.



    Regards,



    Brian

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There is ossibility that the connector or terminals in your battery is loosed, causing a low current to drive off your voltage, this could cause a lot of misconception ensure that the ground and the positive connectors are tightly secure. ( if there is reallly no sign of cranking this is the main part to check, better yet if you can get a multi meter and set your meter to DC you should be able to measure 12Vdc, if yes, then there is problem in your cables, if not then the battery need to be recharged or replaced

cheers

Posted on Aug 12, 2008

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THE WIRES R CROSSED , GET THE REPAIR MANUL AND RETRACE THE CONNECTION OF THE SPARK PLUG WIRES

Posted on Aug 12, 2008

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Check all of the battery terminals and cables and check the wires on the starter/selonoid, start from the battery and follow the cable out and check all conections , clean and tighten them and if it still does it the starter/selonoid is bad and needs replacement...

Hope that helps..........

Posted on Aug 12, 2008

  • Mark Gil
    Mark Gil Aug 13, 2008

    No problem just let us know if you still need help with this concern...

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The cranking problem will most likely be that the battery needs charged. As for the misfire or now no fire, check the crankshaft sensor or coil packs.

Posted on Aug 12, 2008

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Won't


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