I have a crazy problem so to make it easy here ya go.
- 15 to 30 minutes of cranking and it will start and run fine
- cylinders will flood out on intial cranking
- fuel pressure is good
-spark is great
- timinmg belt, tension are new and right on
- noticed welding done to the exuast manifold, believe the ECU might be fried because of this.
This is just really funny, because once it starts it runs like a top. But don't shut it off. Almost forgot, no stored or current codes.
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Clean ground wire on where it connects to engine block and clean connections on battery. Make sure battery is charged. If battery is low, jump battery with another vehicle and see if it cranks at normal speed and starts.
Start by making sure you have a good battery, or a good charge on the battery. locate the starter signal wire on the starter , usually the small wire, connect your test light. have a friend turn the key and see if test light lights up. if so, your starters bad, replace the starter and you should be good to go.
If you can jump and start the car then the starter is good.
I had a similar situation where the battery tester showed 13V and green/good LED but I could not start my car. After many tests, I found out that the battery had good Voltage (13V) but not enough Amperage to crank the starter.
I replaced the battery and the car started like a champ!.
- clue to see if you need to replace the battery is if you have used it for
about 3 years or more.
- Dead battery happens a lot more often than bad alternator.
I have a 1997 626 2.0L 5speed when im driven it like rev limits cuts out around 3500-4000rpm, and when i rev it up and past 4000rpm it stalls, anyone have a idea whats wrong??? thanks i just replaced the crank sensor and egr and still. good power put cuts out
This happends to me on a toyota camry. I got away with replacing the tranny filter and fluid. It worked but I dont know how long it will work for. chances are there is already damage done to your tranny